Generator warning light. Socket factory?

[Chris1055 106]

I’m in the midst of wiring my tractor and when I came to this light it seemed odd that my socket has one wire coming from base of the bulb and the casing is used for ground. All of the diagrams show two wires. But it looks factory. Is there a way I can make this work?

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Those are the worst bulbs you can use.

They will almost always go bad from rust around the hole and loose there ground. You can soldier a wire to the outside of the holder or a small rivit and use a ground wire .

 

 

 

[WHX?? 49,674]

It is factory Chris, all my '67s have them.  I don't ever have problems with mine. Not the worst idea tho Bob  to solder a wire for a good ground connect.

[Chris1055 106]

I quickly connected it to the battery just to see if it would light on a freshly painted tractor and to my surprise I lit right up. And at some point in the next couple of weeks I will solder a ground lead on. My question is that If I’m currently using chassis to ground what terminal of the switch does the single lead attach to. Start or ignition. 

[953 nut 56,558]

4 hours ago, Chris1055 said:

All of the diagrams show two wires.

When you say "Generator warning light" are you referring to a Starter/Generator light as found on the early 60s models without an amp meter?

 

[Chris1055 106]

Yes. It states the positive lead should be on ignition and the ground should be on start. Well I assume it’s ground. My light is using chassis to ground. And one lead I put on ignition but only lights in on position  it doesn’t light or flicker when running 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,168]

Generator light sockets need to be insulated from the chassis ground.

 

Garry

[pfrederi 18,103]

This is an old unit that I need to clean up.  The key here is the socket housing is insulated from the chassis.  Hard to see but there are two fibre washers (red) one above and one below the spring clip that secures it to the housing an red lens.  Your socket does n't seem to have that insulation and like Gary said it has to be isolated from chassis ground.  Note the socket casing wire goes to I  the center pole to S

Edited July 27, 2018 by pfrederi

[Chris1055 106]

Ok gotcha. That will be my weekend project. Thanks guys. I wanted to make it fictional. Intstead of constantly on. I rebuilt the generator I know it charges great like it supposed to but figured I do it right. 

 

[953 nut 56,558]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Generator light sockets need to be insulated from the chassis ground.

 

Garry

Garry, by the wiring diagram I would say you are absolutely correct, but by field examination I began to wonder if this was the case. I went out to the barn and examined two future project 953s that did't have a battery in so the light was ready accessible and both light sockets have a case ground wired to the S/G side of the starter push button. The socket snaps into a brass cylindrical portion of the light housing so it will be well grounded. They are quite rusty and I suspect they have the insulator Paul spoke of or It just wouldn't work. One of my 953s has a plastic side marker light socket I scavenged from  car wiring, works fine.