HL-5 lights bar material and bending

[Chris1055 106]

Hi guys so I’m currently working on a project in restoring my 855. My deck and steering wheel came out so well I needed something to go with them. I’ll post a thread on that as well. I came across some lights which are 4 in not 3 alittle bigger than I wanted but they were nos and the right price. Griffin 500’s. I found a bunch of old post on the HL-5’s and I made a template with the dimensions. But what type of stock do I need and how do I go about bending it? I know the originals were solid but what do you guys do? I like how the short frame 855 has the straight holes where the pto assembly goes on the frame under the dash. I think I’m going just mount the switch with those plus no drilling !!

[formariz 11,987]

Having built a few dozen of those sets here is how I went about it. I start with 5/8" round stock 36" long. I have a plywood template (photo somewhere here in another post) made from an original set. Template is designed to fit inside finished frame. I mark center of bar and then the two bend points. Using a heavy duty metal vise, I clamp the bar on the vise with the bend point on the edge of the vise jaw. I place it so when I bend it i pull it towards me. I then heat that point until it is about cherry red. I then slip a long piece of black pipe over rod and bend it it. I test that first bend against template. If it is close i leave it for now if not adjust it. Then the same for the other side. You have to make sure both bends are oriented correctly. Placement on vise is critical for that. Once both sides are bent I proceed to test again with template and make sure it fits precisely inside of frame. It should also lay flat on a surface. Once bar is bent and adjusted I then cut both legs to length. I have a few originals and some have the exhaust side a little shorter to allow for exhaust. Some do not.The ones I built I cut both sides the same.

Next step is drilling and tapping ends. I use a drill press with the table vertical and a vise attached to it.

Then you need to grind flat spots on top of bar for bolt heads which attach it to tractor frame, the same but longer on the bottom of bar where it meets frame. Accuracy here is also necessary so bar sits correctly on frame.

Last you need to make the spacers which go inside the mounting flange of lights. I use the cut off pieces from bar and drill a clearance hole for bolt through them.

As for switch mounting I devised a bracket that attaches to already existing holes on side of tower. It is bent at a compound angle that matches angle of tower and places switch in the most convenient area.

[WHNJ701 4,165]

20 minutes ago, formariz said:

Having built a few dozen of those sets here is how I went about it. I start with 5/8" round stock 36" long. I have a plywood template (photo somewhere here in another post) made from an original set. Template is designed to fit inside finished frame. I mark center of bar and then the two bend points. Using a heavy duty metal vise, I clamp the bar on the vise with the bend point on the edge of the vise jaw. I place it so when I bend it i pull it towards me. I then heat that point until it is about cherry red. I then slip a long piece of black pipe over rod and bend it it. I test that first bend against template. If it is close i leave it for now if not adjust it. Then the same for the other side. You have to make sure both bends are oriented correctly. Placement on vise is critical for that. Once both sides are bent I proceed to test again with template and make sure it fits precisely inside of frame. It should also lay flat on a surface. Once bar is bent and adjusted I then cut both legs to length. I have a few originals and some have the exhaust side a little shorter to allow for exhaust. Some do not.The ones I built I cut both sides the same.

Next step is drilling and tapping ends. I use a drill press with the table vertical and a vise attached to it.

Then you need to grind flat spots on top of bar for bolt heads which attach it to tractor frame, the same but longer on the bottom of bar where it meets frame. Accuracy here is also necessary so bar sits correctly on frame.

Last you need to make the spacers which go inside the mounting flange of lights. I use the cut off pieces from bar and drill a clearance hole for bolt through them.

As for switch mounting I devised a bracket that attaches to already existing holes on side of tower. It is bent at a compound angle that matches angle of tower and places switch in the most convenient area.

do you still make them?

[formariz 11,987]

1 hour ago, jabelman said:

do you still make them?

Haven't made them in a while. One day when I have a bit more time. Still have enough lights for a few.

[WHNJ701 4,165]

6 hours ago, formariz said:

Haven't made them in a while. One day when I have a bit more time. Still have enough lights for a few.

keep me in mind if you do.

[Chris1055 106]

Thanks that was a big help. I really appreciate your advice !!

[Pullstart 62,834]

@formariz do you have process pictures?

[formariz 11,987]

On 8/2/2018 at 8:04 AM, pullstart said:

@formariz do you have process pictures?

No process photos but it is really pretty simple. The main thing to have is a strong well mounted vise on a table that will not move. Most of mine were done on a blacksmth's vise with a leg to the floor. Clamp the metal in the same orientation for each bend . Heat the metal sufficiently so that it is easy to bend . The rest is just machining work.

Perhaps I will have someone take photos or video on the next batch.

[CasualObserver 3,408]

 

On 7/19/2018 at 7:57 PM, formariz said:

I have a plywood template (photo somewhere here in another post) made from an original set.

Been looking for this for a while myself... finally took the time to go find it. Thanks to  @formariz and @dclarke for their photos

 

[cafoose 3,354]