Need help with 8 speed transmission

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

If the bearing is an open style (a shaft would go through the bearing if the bearing was out) something you can try.

Find a solid shaft that will fit into the bearing with as little clearance as possible and expect the shaft to get damaged.

Half to 3/4 fill the bearing with grease.

Place gear/bearing assembly vertical on a solid surface.

Insert shaft in bearing.

Drive the shaft into the grease as hard as you can with a big hammer.

The hydraulic pressure created on the grease may force the bearing out.

If the bearing moves add more grease and repeat.

 

Garry

[stevasaurus 22,724]

I destroy the bearing by getting the needles to come out...then take a small, sharp screw driver and hammer in between the race and shaft.  It will rip and then fall out.  The picture you have of that bearing looked fine, I would not have replaced it. 

[tntatro 171]

6 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

The picture you have of that bearing looked fine, I would not have replaced it.

I decided to replace all the bearings since there was one 1533 damaged and I could tell the difference after replacing it and comparing the new one with the other side. Most of the needle bearings that I removed seemed to be fine except maybe one or two sounded loose when I shook them.

The bearings in the gear pictured seem to be the least likely to fail because they ride about even with the rest of the shaft. I may leave them but I'm not sure about the damage to the gear. I counted 17 cogs and 11 of them were crushed a little. The damage is just in the area where third gear sits. A new one is $165 so I don't think I'll go that direction but I may be able to find one on ebay or I have another 8 speed that I can take apart and swap all the best gears to this one.

[stevasaurus 22,724]

I would check with one of our vendors...like A-Z for that gear.  Check our vendor's list on the main page.  a good used gear like that is going for around $20 from one of our guys. 

[tntatro 171]

I finally got my transmission together. I actually did two. One has new bearings and a new circular spring and the other I just put a limited slip and new seals.

I haven't had a chance to run the one with new bearings and spring yet but the other does have much better traction than the regular 8 pinion but it still doesn't want to climb this one steep trail on the property where a root sticks out into the path. One tire will spin on the root while the other looks like it wants to spin but doesn't. Is this because the circular spring is worn out or is it likely that I'm pushing it beyond its limit? I tried in 1st and 2nd and it wouldn't climb but it did go up if I used 3rd and got some speed. I didn't think to try the low gears.

 

The other transmission is on a mower at a different property so I can't drive up the same hill for comparison.

[pfrederi 17,734]

It is a limited slip not a locking differential you may have a weak spring or it may be just too much.  In some circumstances my 10 pinions will s[pin one wheel...

[oliver2-44 9,743]

Most auto supplies rent tools and they dhould have what you need to pull those needle bearings out, which is a slide hammer puller.  It comes with several different sizes of adjustable jaws which grab the bearing   Harbor Freight also sells a set that works 

[tntatro 171]

Just giving an update on the transmissions. One transmission is being used for mowing on a Raider 12 and seems to go everywhere I want it to on the lawn. The limited slip does seem to have a little more traction than the 8 pinion. The second transmission is the one that got fully rebuilt. It is on an 8 hp Wheel Horse and now has 6-12 lug tires, v-bar tire chains and a 50lb wheel weight on each side. I've noticed that usually when the tires spin that both spin at the same time. I think the wheel weights made a big difference. Now I can drive up the path I had mentioned in an earlier post and it doesn't even spin a little. I can drive right over the root in low gear uphill after it rained. I have even been pulling small logs out of the woods with it. The only problem I have is the front will lift if I go up an area that is too steep. I have to try to go up at and angle to keep the front down. I just ordered some front wheel weights for the tractor. I'm thoroughly impressed with what it can do now. I think a lot of it is the wheel weights and heavy duty tire chains, not sure how much is due to it being a limited slip although my 4 speed with 20" turf tires and regular tire chains and a 45lb weight on each side will not pull logs out of the same area.

[Lee1977 6,657]

On 7/13/2018 at 9:38 PM, tntatro said:

Thanks a lot, that's very helpful. I'll take a good look at the rest of the bearings before ordering anything. I still haven't taken apart the differential but I might have found a 10 pinion with axle shafts. Someone parting a Raider 10 said he'd see if it has the 10 pinion so hopefully it does and it's in good shape. They seem to be a little difficult to find.

Is the wear on the gear an acceptable amount? It looks like it is worn to a bit of an angle unless they are shaped that way originally. It did seem to shift fine the little I used it.

You have a better transmission then a ten pinion. Nrmally a ten pinion is fine, but a 8 pinion is stronger.

[tntatro 171]

33 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

You have a better transmission then a ten pinion. Nrmally a ten pinion is fine, but a 8 pinion is stronger.

After some research I learned that the 8 pinion differentials are much more durable but I decided to go with the 10 since I won't be using them for competition pulling. I still have a couple 8 pinion differentials for backup in case I do break a 10 pinion. I guess I'm pretty mental about traction. I'm finally content after getting the 10 pinion, lug tires, wheel weights and heavy duty v-bar tire chains, plus I have front wheel weights on the way.