Shop project...

[Pullstart 62,829]

I picked up the new lines, they set me back like 34 bucks.  Not bad in my mind!

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

You made it Buddy, i ain‘t doubt.

 

The price is nice, compared to here.

 

I have found a hydraulic Store not too far from my Site,

they offer me „designed line“ with my given fittings for 15€ at a meter, each meter up will be 2€ More.

Emergency value was 5€, extremely fair prices as i find.

The best is, i can Wait for my lines, or i ordered by phone and grab it, if i ride along.

 

 

Before i thinkin about, to buy myself a hydraulic hose press,

but to compensate that price, i must press a lot of fittings

and after i found that Guy, i waste that idea.

👍

[Pullstart 62,829]

Hey Bryce @Professor1990 have you ever run into this issue?  This safety lug key sheared off on my wife’s bosses car!  I’m trying to figure out what to do to get the wheels off to do a brake job.  The key has a code, I thought maybe I should call McCard and hope the key can be replaced with the serial number?

 

 

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

@pullstart I have not, however you should be able to order a replacement with that code I would think...main problem we run into is people losing the key

[Pullstart 62,829]

I’ll try that, before beating a perfectly good 12 point over them!

 

 

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

Do you have a set of these? I've had pretty good luck removing them that way...of course is sacrifices the lock...but ive found it's the easiest way to remove them without the key

[Pullstart 62,829]

28 minutes ago, Professor1990 said:

Do you have a set of these? I've had pretty good luck removing them that way...of course is sacrifices the lock...but ive found it's the easiest way to remove them without the key

 

No, what are they called... where do you get them?  They are rusted enough that a new set isn’t a terrible idea.  Truth be told, I could probably buy a new set of locks locally cheaper than a replacement key plus shipping!

[ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314]

6 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

No, what are they called... where do you get them?  They are rusted enough that a new set isn’t a terrible idea.  Truth be told, I could probably buy a new set of locks locally cheaper than a replacement key plus shipping!

I'm not real sure what the technical name for them is...I call them overshots...just Google damaged but remover and you'll find them...I ordered the set I've got off Amazon, but any place that sells tools should have them or be able to get them for you. Very handy tool that I wouldn't be without

[adsm08 2,046]

13 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

No, what are they called... where do you get them?  They are rusted enough that a new set isn’t a terrible idea.  Truth be told, I could probably buy a new set of locks locally cheaper than a replacement key plus shipping!

 

Turbo socket, round off socket, they have a couple names.

 

Advance sells a lock remover that is basically a tapered left-handed die with a square drive on the end. Looks like this:

 

Mcgaurd may not be able to get a key based off that code, but the dealer can. Also, when dealing with locking lug nuts the lock should be the first one off and the last one on, after all the others are torqued. You already found out why.

Edited January 15, 2020 by adsm08

[ebinmaine 67,390]

@pullstart if you have a connection to a tire shop they'll tell you how to get them or even order a set for you.

 

I've seen them in the past with 3 teeth in them.

Different sizes in a set like the pic above.

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

I swapped out the thermostats in Norman the other day.  After shooting the video, I overheated again.  I fear a leak in the head gasket between a cylinder and a water jacket.  The heads were new from a dealership within a year of me purchasing it and I always make sure to warm it up properly before driving or hauling.  Bummer... but it is what it is.

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Are you sure, the coolant pump works well ?

[Pullstart 62,829]

13 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

Are you sure, the coolant pump works well ?

my next step when time allows is to pressure test the system.  I’ll pump it up not running, then watch the gauge.  If nothing happens, I’ll start it and bring it up to temp, then bring some boost up and watch the gauge.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

A simple and quick check for a fail of Thermostat is,

if engine raises to overheat widely open the internal heater setting to the max level of heat and switch to max Fan, than temperature must drop quickly.

 

The next test is use an old bowl on a camping heater and boil a bit water.

if it exceedes 90Deg C put the thermostat’s in and the thermostat must quickly open.

that can be seen.

The exact temp is mostly printed or stamped somewhere on the Thermostats itself.

 

If not, i would point more to the coolant pump.

Clogged Radiator i just know if sometimes water was refilled with a dirty Can‘s or some dirt goes in.

 

another thing i often see are the inner gaps between the radiator itself, they sometimes clogged with dead bee‘s, flee‘s and other animals.

edit 

they can carefully be cleaned with a pressure washer.

but handle with care not to destroy or bend the slats.

Edited June 18, 2020 by Tractorhead

[Pullstart 62,829]

Today, I confirmed what I feared.  I filled it up with coolant, put a gauge on the coolant tank and took a drive... with the hood off and gauge zip tied to the hood hinge.  After bringing it to temp, I noticed pressure of 15 psi or so.  No big deal.  After 1/2 mile, I turned around, did a hefty pull up to 55 mph and watched the temp and pressure gauges both spike.  No reason to wonder, I’ve got problems.

 

We’re considering options.  I feel like I’ll be best suited calling a few diesel specialty shops for guidance too.  It’s hard to convince my wife it won’t happen again, this being the second head gasket problem in 4 years or so.

 

1) look for a donor truck to swap engines and part the rest

2) buy another southern truck and watch Norman go to a new home 
3) get a replacement long block that’s been machined and rebuilt.

4) figure out what has caused the head problems and fix it for good.  
 

The dealer who did the work had zero vested interest in my purchase because I called them in TX and the truck was for sale in OK.  I believe what they said they did, but the issue is back.  Why?

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Did you have mixture water in oil or oil in Water?

 

If not, i‘m still on the Coolant pump.

Had myself in the Past on an older Mercedes also a very terrible issue

 

On longer Slopes it just sometimes it begin‘s nearly to overheat.

i checked the coolant but nothing seems wrong, than i Changed the thermostat, but nothing differs after.

It doesn‘t overheat continousely, just sometimes under heavyer Load.

 

I thought myself it‘s and Old engine maybe the Radiator is not too well dimensionated or maybe a bit clogged.

also the internal waterheater sometimes blow a lightly warm breeze but not hot short before overheat.

I thought this is a cause of loosing Coolant.

 

So i i flush the radiator but it doesn‘t solve that issue for longterm.

On longterm steep i do a few breaks, to cool the Engine in between down.

I do a lot of investigation to solve that problem but all i do fails.

 

The solution was half year later found, when my coolant pump begin to dribb and i have to exchange it.

After i dismounted the pump i found the reasons for all my Troubles before.

 

In the pump close to the outlet was a smaller piece of Aluminum in, that hides itself in the Engine channel.

After flushing the Engine rewards with dismounted Pump it comes out and the coolant path was released.

i have no clue, where this thing came from or what it was before,

but after that Action i never had the Thermal issue again even on long term slopes with full throttle.

 

After closer investigating of the old coolant pump i found also, that the impeller can be easily twisted

with a bit force of two pressed fingers on the shaft, that was enough friction to spin the impeller.

 

Maybe that helps you on your closer investigation.

 

 

 

 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

I had a truck that I flushed the radiator and replaced everything to do with the cooling, Last thing I did was a new radiator and that was the ticket. It had crap in the bottom of the tank that would not flush out. 

 

 

Randy

[Pullstart 62,829]

I called a couple shops, they are sure too that the head gaskets are compromised.  The best quote so far is $5500.  Ouch!  
 

I was impressed that part of the service is checking all fuel injectors, water pump, clutch fan, radiator flow rates, inspecting the turbo, etc.  What is not that impressive is that they send the heads out to be checked for cracks, milled for flatness and a head job done.  If they aren’t doing the work in house, why not me do it?  I am sure I could do the head job, replace the cooling components and rebuild/upgrade the turbo for well within that price tag.
 

I am still shopping around for parts and services... stay tuned while Norman weeps.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Ouch, that hurts...

 

😢

on the Insignia from Kati we had a rip in the lower part of the Engine Block.

there was water in oil ( brownie sauce).

 

Firstly we changed the waterpump 380 buck + 180 for mounting because inside the Engine chain driven and a known troublemaker on the Seal,

Than we removed the Head and let it rework, but we fail, same issue again as before.

Another 500 buck‘s wasted.

We checked the Engine while cold, no drip no loss of coolant, a terrible error.

 

just if engine was warm the coolant rins completely into Engineoil than water alarm occurs and the engine overheats quickly.

 

at least we changed the whole Engine from A20NFT to A20NHT, what shall be improved on several points.

Later when i do deeper investigation, i found out, that i‘m not the first with that Fail.

 

At least it where cheaper, immediately exchange the Engine before try to restore the old.

I dunno, if the duramax have also such a known Weakpoint.

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

On 11/11/2018 at 10:47 PM, pullstart said:

Re-skinned half of my V plow tonight.  The other side will likely come next.  The structure of the plow is intact, but I’m tired of being able to see through the plow in so many spots!  I formed the skin with a 2x4 and a big hammer, then used clamps and 2 by wedges to snug it up.

 

 

 

it’s been a little while.  Yep, I’m doing the other side, just in time to sell the truck!  I’ll wire wheel the plow, prime and paint it before getting it on the truck and out to the road.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

Got my PPE on!  Shorts and boots man!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

 

[Pullstart 62,829]

It’s 90 and humid today.  Perfect weather for a leather jacket and welding hood!  The shop has A/C but it is still probably 82 in there maybe?

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,390]

18 minutes ago, pullstart said:

probably 82

Nope.

 

 

 

Just tooooooo hot

[Pullstart 62,829]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

Nope.

 

 

 

Just tooooooo hot

there’s a front moving through, it’s supposed to take the air temp from low 90’s to the 70’s.  After the storm clears, you betcha I’ll rinse off in the solar heated pool!