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Pullstart
10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Dammit


No wiser words in a time like that :ROTF:

 

There is much more to the story or my Sunday, but this is a family oriented forum!  Luckily, my wife smiled and chuckled a bit, when nothing was going right.  That’s usually my job, to calm her.  Ying and Yang, right?

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Ying and Yang, right?

16122899137496554622014616430110.jpg.2ac8b2aecb98b12c8536e3f0d0016d1b.jpg

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Handy Don
24 minutes ago, pullstart said:


No wiser words in a time like that :ROTF:

 

There is much more to the story or my Sunday, but this is a family oriented forum!  Luckily, my wife smiled and chuckled a bit, when nothing was going right.  That’s usually my job, to calm her.  Ying and Yang, right?

Avoid kicking the cat, that'll just cause more trouble! :)

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Pullstart

Drip, drip.  I have this heavy mat to help collect water to the drain.  It’s a perfectly level floor.

 

 

 

 

005413E2-1A16-475F-BFB8-B98319A627D6.jpeg

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Avoid kicking the cat, that'll just cause more trouble! :)

Depends on the cat...

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Tractorhead
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Depends on the cat...

That doesn‘t sounds to a kitten’s meow, more to a Big Cat’s ROAR.

😂

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Tractorhead
1 hour ago, pullstart said:

Drip, drip.  I have this heavy mat to help collect water to the drain.  It’s a perfectly level floor.

 

 

 

 

005413E2-1A16-475F-BFB8-B98319A627D6.jpeg

 

That‘s a great idea for such Works to have such a big  „Drain Mat“ aside.

 

like that idea...

 

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Pullstart

It’s come in handy quite a few times!  Unfortunately it takes up a ton of room.  Folding it has created tears in the seams and it’s not 100% waterproof.  The floor is level and I’d love to have it slope to the drain some day... but I can just see dollars flying out the window for that one!

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ZXT

Man, that sucks! What symptoms has it developed? No 2nd, 4th or reverse?

I got my trans back together Saturday night and put into the truck Sunday morning. I've driven it 50ish miles since then with no issues - only time will tell if I did it right. I'll put some weight behind it in the near future to see how it does.

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Handy Don
13 minutes ago, pullstart said:

It’s come in handy quite a few times!  Unfortunately it takes up a ton of room.  Folding it has created tears in the seams and it’s not 100% waterproof.  The floor is level and I’d love to have it slope to the drain some day... but I can just see dollars flying out the window for that one!

When building my house I asked the cost of making the garage floor tilt to a French drain.  Yikes!

Turns out the drain part was cheap. But the extra labor for forms, making the concrete so it wouldn't "slump", and the extra steps working it would have nearly tripled the cost of a straight "standard" pour.

So it's flat.

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Pullstart
11 minutes ago, ZXT said:

Man, that sucks! What symptoms has it developed? No 2nd, 4th or reverse?

I got my trans back together Saturday night and put into the truck Sunday morning. I've driven it 50ish miles since then with no issues - only time will tell if I did it right. I'll put some weight behind it in the near future to see how it does.


I only drove it about 30-50 miles.  Backing up in a few inches of snow, it started moving backwards, then bang/pop.  No reverse.  I didn’t even test road gears, it has to come apart anyway.  I pulled the plow off and went straight to the shop...

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Pullstart

Unfortunately, the reverse clutches are in pristine shape and so is the suspected sun shell.  There is a boost valve and the valve body, to items that control pressure to the correct clutches and the right time.  I have to figure out how to troubleshoot those now, I guess.

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Pullstart

I found some other components compromised.  There is a spring hub inside the 2/4 clutch that was broken (you can see how crooked it is on the inside) and the new band was worn hard at the stop pin, implying it somehow popped off.

 

I had some spares and installed them.  I’m ready to pop the pump back in and finish assembly again.

 

 

E9E129DC-DA43-4253-A847-7E2A0A08E72C.jpeg

EED79E17-F883-4AE3-9FD8-49DFB58EB06F.jpeg

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Pullstart

Transmission is in the truck, I had to run to Autozone right quick to get a new transfercase gasket and 10 qts of ATF..  I was going to reclaim the fluid, but there’s enough material from that band floating around, I’ll stick with a fresh refil.

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Pullstart

I found this on the web.  It’s a pretty informative read!

 

https://twincharlotte.com/30-common-4l60e-transmission-problems-repair-charlotte-nc/

 

What is a 4L60E Transmission?

The 4L60-E is an automatic shift, four-speed overdrive, longitudinally positioned transmission. It has been considered to be the best rendition of the finest overdrive automatic transmission ever produced. The 4L60-E is found in nearly every GM rear-wheel-drive application, including the C/K Truck, Sonoma, Jimmy, Tahoe, Yukon, Astro, Safari, Suburban, Bravada, Firebird, Camaro and Corvette

Before the Late 4L60-E transmission, there was the Turbo 700R, which was introduced in 1982. The 4L60-E is GM’s successful continuation of the ever-improving 700R4 (aka “4L60” since 1990), introduced in 1982. The 4L60-E is the “E”lectronically shift controlled version of the 4L60. The Late 4L60-E was released in 1997 in and fully phased into wide use through GM by 1998 in both RWD car platforms (including the C6 Corvette) and trucks in both 2wd and 4wd configurations. (Most transmission models are not distinctively noted with the “E” since all GM transmissions are now also controlled electronically.)

The 4L60E Transmission has went through many changes/improvements over the years since it first came out in 1982. From bells to valve bodies, added solenoids, changes in pump and convertors. The 4L60E transmission weighs 146 pounds dry, and 162 wet. It requires 8.4 quarts (9.64″ torque converter) or 11.4 quarts (11.81″ torque converter) of transmission fluid,

Top 30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems and Repair

Below is a list of common transmission problems with the GM 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions to repair. Although you may have some of these symptoms / problems with your 4L60E Transmission, the repair solution may differ. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions. For a complete diagnosis on your GM 4L60E Transmission problem, contact us for a Free Diagnostic.

1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the transmission may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).

2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).

3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT (Wide Open Throttle); delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There’s a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced.

4. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: TPS needs to be checked for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, this must be replaced.

5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: Could be VSS failure. Rear of transmission needs to be fixed. Transmission needs to come out in order to access VSS.

6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out: Needs to be removed and rebuilt. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. Must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

8. 1st and 3rd only, no 2,4 or R: Sunshell is fractured or splines are sheared off. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

9. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping: Servo seals may be damaged. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

10. Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the underhood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

11. No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter: ShiftA solenoid failed Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans or PCM. Needs diagnostic testing.

12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it’s moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: A wiring problem from PCM to transmission or PCM.

13. No TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed, TCC clutch worn out (must remove transmission and replace TC).

14. TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage, or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

16. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably remove and rebuild needed.

17. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

18. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

19. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Try to wiggle driveshaft – if more than 0.020″ play, that’s the sign. Must be removed and transmission rebuilt.

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the transmission goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt, sooner rather than later.

21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. Remove transmission and rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the transmission is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

22. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. New PCM, check wiring, check other sensors such as VSS and TPS.

23. 3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn’t store a code, will not throw a CEL (I’ve heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff.

24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out.

25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter: Need to verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter.

26. Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS (Throttle position sensor).

27. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. Also could be overfiled transmission.

28. Car acts like it’s in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine: Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.

29. Needle bearings in the pan, first gear and/or reverse may be noisy: Either a torrington bearing or a planetary bearing is on its way out. Transmission will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. Cheaper to rebuild now (saves further damage to hard parts), but requires removal and rebuild. It is drivable until it breaks.

30. 1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Transmission is on its way out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

Twin Automotive & Transmission, Charlotte’s Transmission Specialist, provides free transmission repair diagnostics (diagnostic is free with repair of the transmission). Twin Automotive offers Charlotte NC ‘s Longest Transmission Rebuild Warranty – 3 Years / Unlimited Miles.

The above top 30 common problems with the 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions for repair are merely a guide. Although you may have a similar problem as those listed above, the repair may differ based upon a visual inspection of the vehicle. Transmission problems only worsen with time. If you have any problems with your GM 4L60E Transmission, it is best to speak with a professional transmission repair expert. Still looking for answers?

Check out this INFOGRAPHIC: Five Common 4L60-E Transmission Problems

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SylvanLakeWH

:law-policeblue:

 

Pull over and slow down there boy... @pullstart... youz just posted the longest post in RS history...

 

:law-policeblue:
 

:ychain:

 

 

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Pullstart

I’m chasing, I don’t know what here.  I got the truck together last night and tested on the hoist.  No reverse.  I called transgo who I used for the shift kit and Larry and I had a great chat.  I need to work on getting a 300 psi 1/8” tap hose and gauge from a pressure tap above the shifter to the driver’s seat.  At idle in Reverse, I should have 80-120 psi.  In a stall with the brakes applied and throttle up, I should see up to 300 psi.  Forward gears, 210 psi in a stall. Time to get that figured out!

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Handy Don
36 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Time to get that figured out!

I'm betting that the doojobber is not tightly connected to the whatjamacallit so the thigamajig doesn't have the right amount of oomph.

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ebinmaine
7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'm betting that the doojobber is not tightly connected to the whatjamacallit so the thigamajig doesn't have the right amount of oomph.

Might have been nice if you told him that BEFORE he ripped this all apart

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Handy Don
1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

Might have been nice if you told him that BEFORE he ripped this all apart

My sincere apologies. Of course, I had no idea what an NV4500 was and had to google it before I could be sure of my diagnosis.

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ZXT
1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

 I had no idea what an NV4500 was 

That's not even what he's working on :lol:

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

My sincere apologies. Of course, I had no idea what an NV4500 was and had to google it before I could be sure of my diagnosis.

Are we sure that's the right transmission model?

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Pullstart
50 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'm betting that the doojobber is not tightly connected to the whatjamacallit so the thigamajig doesn't have the right amount of oomph.

 

39 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

My sincere apologies. Of course, I had no idea what an NV4500 was and had to google it before I could be sure of my diagnosis.


I was following right along, till you started talking to Jonah!  :ROTF:  

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Pullstart
46 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Might have been nice if you told him that BEFORE he ripped this all apart


um.... too late.  I wanted to double check a couple things in the pan.  Boost valve?  Yep it’s put together correct, c-clip in place!  Check balls?  Not that... they are in the transmission silly!  Well, I’m verifying placement as we think.

 

 

 

 

E02B9540-D364-4703-81E3-E6F317B8BF85.jpeg

516FD96E-9D62-427B-A078-64CA86E5487C.jpeg

950A75B7-2D89-4EB1-B760-94E9882AE612.jpeg

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Pullstart

Found a missing check ball, 3-4 exhaust whatever that means.  Larry is gone for the day, but the rest of the tech guys are awesome too!

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