Tobacco Road GT14

[ronhatch 406]

Rob; Great job! It's nice to see someone able to put things back together rather then just take things apart.  

[Rob R 966]

13 hours ago, stevebo said:

Rob,

theow som ags on that old girl and being it here for my meet and greet and we will do some pulling👍

Wow if I can get some time to get to the tow valve and get it fixed, might be a possibility...…  afraid otherwise would be difficult to get her off and on the truck.  also know you aware GT14 hydro's are not good pullers. 

[daveoman1966 3,748]

The PUSH VALVE is basically two parts.  The part I've marked as 'A' is the shaft with O-ring....it is one whole piece.  The part marked 'B' is just a hollow collar and the shaft 'A' should turn inside of it.  Since yours is stuck tight, try this: 

Put the end of shaft 'A' in a vise ...not the O-ring end...the 'T' handle end.  With a wrench on the hex end collar 'B', wiggle the hex back and forth to break it loose.  Use some penetrating fluid....FREE-ALL is the best stuff around for that.     

[Rob R 966]

Thanks for the reply Dave, my situation is that the Hydro Gear Transmission is STILL IN the Tractor I have the Locking Collar free but have no way ( I don't think) to now put sufficient tork on the valve to get it to come out..... I will continue to soak it for a while ….. was thinking about taking an old socket cutting a slot in it and trying to use this to see if I can get some movement...…… worse scenario here would be to damage this or not be able to get it back into the DRIVE mode.....  If I am missing anything let me know any other suggestions appreciated. 

[ztnoo 2,298]

Is the "T" handle at the top of the valve broken off???

[daveoman1966 3,748]

Obviously, the shaft 'A' is not stuck in the collar 'B', so it has to be rusted tight & stuck inside the end cap housing.  See where mine is rust-pitted just above the O-ring...that's where yours is stuck.  Try to lift up that big washer enough to spray some penetrant ...several times...and let soak for a while.  After that,  If it were me, I'd thread the collar back in far enough to get a pair of VISE GRIPS onto the end of the shaft...where the broken T handle is.  Put the vise grips CLAMPED TIGHT on the shaft, right at the collar.  Then, give the vise grips an abrupt  WHACK....either way, back and forth until the shaft.  This MAY break loose the rust.  The danger is...SNAP OFF the shaft 'A'.    

[Rob R 966]

31 minutes ago, ztnoo said:

Is the "T" handle at the top of the valve broken off???

The short "T" handle shown is the way I got it..... as I stated since it was so short I did grind a tiny bit off so that I could get a socket on the lock collar... but basically this is the condition it was in as I got it….  my thought here was to lengthen it when and if I ever get it freed-up.. and also as stated perhaps an old slotted socket over it so I can rock it ….. but when I tell you it's stuck ….. I mean it's stuck!

[Rob R 966]

2 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said:

Obviously, the shaft 'A' is not stuck in the collar 'B', so it has to be rusted tight & stuck inside the end cap housing.  See where mine is rust-pitted just above the O-ring...that's where yours is stuck.  Try to lift up that big washer enough to spray some penetrant ...several times...and let soak for a while.  After that,  If it were me, I'd thread the collar back in far enough to get a pair of VISE GRIPS onto the end of the shaft...where the broken T handle is.  Put the vise grips CLAMPED TIGHT on the shaft, right at the collar.  Then, give the vise grips an abrupt  WHACK....either way, back and forth until the shaft.  This MAY break loose the rust.  The danger is...SNAP OFF the shaft 'A'.    

That be what I am doing …. 10-4 on the snapping off the "A" shaft...….. 

[Sarge 3,463]

I've had several of those that had to be heated up with the red and green wrench before those nuts would break free - due to the tight clearance that nut can rust weld itself right onto the shaft tightly. One of them, after freeing it up got an o-ring added at the top - it seems to help keep the moisture out and prevent the rust issue. I would think the best way to address these on a more permanent direction would be to machine a groove into the shaft or inside of the nut and make provisions for a tight-fitting o-ring or flat seal, that would stop the whole problem. I've already had one tractor that I spent the time to get the thing loose, cleaned, re-painted and new seals only to have it lock up again in less than 2yrs - that's enough to aggravate the Pope...

 

Sarge

[Rob R 966]

10 hours ago, Sarge said:

I've had several of those that had to be heated up with the red and green wrench before those nuts would break free - due to the tight clearance that nut can rust weld itself right onto the shaft tightly. One of them, after freeing it up got an o-ring added at the top - it seems to help keep the moisture out and prevent the rust issue. I would think the best way to address these on a more permanent direction would be to machine a groove into the shaft or inside of the nut and make provisions for a tight-fitting o-ring or flat seal, that would stop the whole problem. I've already had one tractor that I spent the time to get the thing loose, cleaned, re-painted and new seals only to have it lock up again in less than 2yrs - that's enough to aggravate the Pope...

 

Sarge

Thanks for the input Sarge …. how much heat did you put on it ….. like glowing red or much less and how many times, where did you apply the heat (top - side) did it do any damage to the valve or anything else......

[Sarge 3,463]

You will need o-ring seals if you use heat - be prepared for that. Heat the nut only, never the shaft - that way, the nut swells and breaks the rust loose. Most items built like this won't need glowing red/orange heat range, just get it good n hot and if necessary use some paraffin wax at the joint. As the nut breaks loose, that paraffin will creep inside the joint and lubricate it, much easier to get it off and clean it up. I use a vise with a set of aluminum jaws to hold the shaft as Dave described in his drawing. I also remove the roll pin to allow the nut to be removed so it and the shaft can be cleaned properly. You cannot heat that nut if it's still on the transmission unless you want to destroy the entire valve block . 

 

Btw, when removing parts like this in a hydraulic or pressure-fed system, be sure to bleed off pressure through cylinders and such first. Also, always clean the area around the part of any dirt/debris or risk getting it in places it can do damage. If you don't have an air compressor, you can use "canned air" or dust-off for computers. Once the nut is cracked loose about 1/2 a turn, clean it again. Not advisable to use liquid cleaners or brake cleaner - it will carry the dirt right where you don't want it to go.

 

Sarge

[Rob R 966]

As per the pics I have the nut loose what is holding this now is "A' Shaft as shown in  DaveO's pics..... I am really afraid that it is stuck and rusted so bad that that "A" shaft is almost welded in there. I do not want to damage or break this off...… so for now she will have to be stuck in the ON position.  

 

Attaching some pics of the finished machine

[19richie66 17,500]

Could always stuff an Eaton 1100 in it.  😎

[Rob R 966]

27 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Could always stuff an Eaton 1100 in it.  😎

 

Great idea Riche but then I would have to find one and pay for your first class round trip Florida to NY and back...…..OUCH!

[ztnoo 2,298]

On 7/15/2018 at 3:03 PM, Rob R said:

so for now she will have to be stuck in the ON position

 

Well, that is MUCH better than having it stuck in the OFF position.

It allows you to use the tractor in whatever useful manner you choose.

The only really problem, given the weight and bulk of the machine @ 840#, is, it will have to be running under engine power to be able to move it around.

Out of season, you might consider some auto wheel dollies to jack it up on to add flexibility to placement on a hard surface (concrete) floor......and even to work on it.

Just a suggestion.....

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-vehicle-dollies-67511.html

 

Good looking machine!

 

Regards,

Steve

 

[953 nut 55,163]

If you heat it there is an old trick that farmers all used that works well. While it is hot apply paraffin or other wax and it will flow down into the rust providing lubrication.       

In the event the worst were to happen and the drive unit needed to be replaced you can use an Electro or Charger hydro unit and make one minor change to make it work for the GT-14. I have done this and it is documented here.

[Schrumgmc 150]

On 7/12/2018 at 7:24 AM, Rob R said:

It is my reference to the poor condition of the machine as I found it. 

 

 

Awesome transformation

 

that was me on YouTube commenting on your video. Schrum Classic rides