3 terminal key switch part number or should I just use the 5 terminal for Magneto?

[ebinmaine 67,502]

I'm going to put a solenoid in my honey's 657 to get the high amperage out of the key switch which needs to be replaced anyways.

 

Is there a readily available aftermarket switch I can use or should I just get the 5 terminal Wheelhorse switch from the 1980s when they were using Magneto's so I can have a ground to off connection.

[pfrederi 17,739]

Lowe's -HD usually have replacement ignition switches.  Just make sure you get one for magneto

[ebinmaine 67,502]

15 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Lowe's -HD usually have replacement ignition switches.  Just make sure you get one for magneto

Was that a 103991 ?

[pfrederi 17,739]

They are generic 5 terminal switches.  There will be one for Battery ignition s and one for magneto. 

 

 

new2horses  a member here had nice new heavy duty three terminal switches for sale.

Edited July 5, 2018 by pfrederi

[ebinmaine 67,502]

Gotcha. Okay thank you.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,045]

Click on the picture and again on the next page

Garry

[ebinmaine 67,502]

7 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Click on the picture and again on the next page

Garry

 

 

Thank you Garry!

 

Can you tell me what the application usage is for the old switch number of 23-0660 ?

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,045]

Not completely. A partial list of later models here

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro/parts/23-0660/

 

Click on the picture

Sometime the replacement switches have a different stem and thread diameter but have never heard anyone complain.

 

Garry

[ebinmaine 67,502]

2 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Sometime the replacement switches have a different stem and thread diameter but have never heard anyone complain.

Okay. Cool. We'll try it out and see what happens.

[Howie 886]

I probably would use one of the five terminal switches, just use the terminals you need. Some have the terminals arranged in different patterns, but just wire as needed. I used the original heavy switch on my 69 Raider 12 and just wired in a solenoid, if the switch is good. Just have to run a smaller from starter terminal to solenoid.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

@Howie I think that's the route I'll go.

New 5 terminal and add solenoid.

Iff she ever wants lights I can just wire em right in....

 

[953 nut 55,230]

I know you have seen this drawing a few times before, but here it is again.

They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

9 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I know you have seen this drawing a few times before, but here it is again.

They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto 

I have Richard, yes. Thank you for posting it again. I actually had saved it in my email file knowing full well that I was going to be up against this. Maybe a month ago?

 

We ended up getting a hold of an aftermarket copy of the above-mentioned 23 - 0660 switch.

If you click on the link that Gary posted earlier it will bring you to a picture that shows most of the terminals.

What I have is b, g, l, s, m.

I suppose that would be for battery, ground, lamps, solenoid, Magneto.

 

 

Keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these Magneto engines, why is there no voltage regulator in this tractor?

 

[953 nut 55,230]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

suppose that would be for battery, ground, lamps, solenoid, Magneto.

The "L" would probably take the place of the "R" on other switches. You need a place for the charging system to connect. The lighting could also be connected there too.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The "L" would probably take the place of the "R" on other switches. You need a place for the charging system to connect. The lighting could also be connected there too.

On this Tractor the 2 (charging) wires from the engine are combined and went to battery.

 

Any thoughts why?

 

[953 nut 55,230]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

the 2 (charging) wires from the engine are combined and went to battery.

Looking at the wiring diagram in the 657 manual the charging wire (white) from the engine is connected directly to the battery. I don't have any Lausons so wasn't aware of this. Guess you might want to leave well enough alone there.

 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

wiring diagram in the 657 manual the charging wire (white) from the engine is connected directly to the battery.

Odd part about that is I clearly have two wires. Neither one of them is white. I'll get some pictures later on and post another Topic in the electrical section. I have two black wires coming out of the same black protector sheath.

That's how it was set up from the factory so I'll likely put it back there. Really, I'm just trying to get an understanding of how these systems work. I understand the Kohler with the voltage regulator is but this one... Not so much.

[pfrederi 17,739]

Is this the original HH60?  if so it had an unregulated charging system.  Two rectifiers and  fuse.  Manual said if you were running the engine for long period of time you should remove one rectifier to reduce teh out put and avoid overcharging your battery.  look at the Techy Technicians handbook in the manual section.

Edited July 6, 2018 by pfrederi

[ebinmaine 67,502]

14 hours ago, pfrederi said:

this the original HH60?  if so it had an unregulated charging system.  Two rectifiers and  fuse. 

Thanks again Paul.

We believe it is the original hh60. The numbers match up to what they should be in there is a date casting on the engine of 67.

I do have that rectifier circuit plate attached to the side of the engine but it was not  correctly connected when we got the tractor.

On this one, the Magneto wire which is red was connected to the center terminal like it should be and the green wire was running up to the key switch like it should be.

However, the two AC wires which are black on this motor, not yellow, were spliced together and that lead went to the positive battery terminal. The two diodes and the fuse were not in the circuit at all.

This tractor did run and start and the previous owner did not mention that the battery was having any issues one way or the other but it is also less than a year old. It would not have been experiencing an overcharged condition because this guy was only running it for a very few minutes at a time.

 

I'll whip out my DVOM when I get home and see what I can come up with for numbers.

 

 

Edited July 7, 2018 by ebinmaine
Correct autocorrect