CasualObserver 3,409 #26 Posted July 3, 2018 On 6/28/2018 at 10:59 PM, dells68 said: On 6/30/2018 at 3:33 PM, wallfish said: 02 = Feb 8 = 1958 Not that it really matters... but weren't the months of these casting date codes designated by letters? @dells68 is that possibly a D2-8? I'm thinking the months ran A-M (skipping I) which I think would translate to April 2, 1958. But like I said... in the grand scheme of things, February or April.... it doesn't really matter. Just commenting. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #27 Posted July 3, 2018 Thanks Jason @CasualObserver. I wasn't really sure what it said, I knew the hood was a 58 hood, I'm just glad that the trans is a match. Makes me feel like the tractor hasn't been mismatched. Saw a tractor at the show for a screaming deal $275. It was a little mismatched - rj hood, suburban belt guard, rj axle. Still, was very nicely done. I just like the idea of all parts matching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #28 Posted July 7, 2018 I've only had a few minutes to work on the rj the last few days. I coated the belt cover and exhaust shield that I got from Matt Nace with my salt, peroxide, vinegar, water mixture and let them set for a few days. Finish turned out pretty good. Tonight I dusted red oxide primer, oil rubbed bronze, black, and colonial red paint on the areas that didn't show a lot of rust. I'm gonna sand them a little to blend the colors better and re shoot with rust solution on any shiny metal to give them an aged look to match the rest of the tractor. May be a few days before I get to work again as our barn and yards need my attention. 4 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,874 #29 Posted July 7, 2018 Nice work on that weathering Dell. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #30 Posted July 7, 2018 (edited) 14 hours ago, dells68 said: any shiny metal to give them an aged look to match the rest of the tractor. A little splash of Muriatic Acid and rinse off with water, any uncoated areas will flash rust within an hour. Edited July 7, 2018 by 953 nut 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #31 Posted July 8, 2018 I've always been afraid of muratic acid. I can't remember the exact mixture I used, but the vinegar, peroxide, and salt start turning the metal as soon as applied. It just takes longer to get good coverage of the rust. I like playing to see what effects I can get. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #32 Posted July 8, 2018 16 hours ago, dells68 said: always been afraid of muratic acid. You do want to be upwind and use it sparingly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #33 Posted July 9, 2018 Absolutely always wear goggles with muriatic acid, never just safety glasses. One good splash to an eye and it's done for good. Use it a lot in my work, so I'm used to it - but just some simple precautions will go a long way. Do not wear any clothes/shoes you're not willing to throw away and I'd advise rinsing them in clean water outside when you're done - it will prevent the acid from slowly eating holes from small drops of the stuff that always seems to fly everywhere. No matter what, always have a garden hose handy in case of any accidental splashes - without it you may regret it. Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,201 #34 Posted July 12, 2018 Hey Dell, that hood cleaned up pretty good! Do you have pics of the barn raising? Moving the workshop or for another purpose? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #35 Posted July 12, 2018 On 7/9/2018 at 9:33 AM, Sarge said: Do not wear any clothes/shoes you're not willing to throw away When I was pulling maintenance on Reverse Osmosis units I would put on an old wool suit and rubber boots. Acid didn't bother them and I was the best dressed man on the farm. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #36 Posted July 12, 2018 19 hours ago, pullstart said: Hey Dell, that hood cleaned up pretty good! Do you have pics of the barn raising? Moving the workshop or for another purpose? Thanks Kevin. Sadly the new machine shed is a result if our 100+ year old barn moving toward collapse. It's going to be 50x18. I do think the horses may get their own 10x14 stall in it though. Slow process with just Dad and I working on it. I wanted to finish the stripping on the roof for our tin today, but we got a pretty big storm yesterday=lots of mud. Hope to have the roof back on before school starts back up🤞. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #37 Posted July 12, 2018 The water must rip through there. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,874 #38 Posted July 12, 2018 35 minutes ago, AMC RULES said: The water must rip through there. Craig that's one o them free breethin roofs 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #39 Posted July 12, 2018 or... free flowing embankment. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #40 Posted July 13, 2018 Guttering after tin will be a must! Always learned that you put a barn on a piece of land you can't use for a field! Beats the snot out of the barn that's falling right in the middle of a field😂. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #41 Posted July 25, 2018 Well, I pulled the transmission apart tonight and the news isn't so good! It was full of water and lots of sludge. Thankfully the bearings seem fine. When I washed the gears down, I found a lot of wear on two of the gears (don't know their technical names) I believe the bull gear and the one that drives it. One tooth is chipped on the bull gear and the drive gear is roughed up pretty good. I've got a suburban trans that I could pull apart for parts. Any chance the bull and drive gears from it would match? It's the type with needle bearings on one of the shafts. Or should I try to build up the one broken tooth by welding? Any help appreciated. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,363 #42 Posted July 25, 2018 I would just clean the parts up the best you can and maybe weld up that one tooth. I think you will be fine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,929 #43 Posted July 25, 2018 Mig weld up that tooth and file it down. the rest will work, might be a touch noisy. i have a tranny with a lot of the curve worn/rusted off the teath and it works, but its sounds like a coffe grinder. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,486 #44 Posted July 25, 2018 ...unless you plan on competition pulling with it. I got a few look worse than that but fine for just putts around the ranch or a slow parade. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #45 Posted July 25, 2018 Thanks guys. It was a little disheartening to open it up and find the chipped tooth. It seems to turn fine in all gears, or did when it was together. I only plan on riding it around at Dad's for fun. It's not going to be a high speed machine or worker. I may give it a try to build up the tooth a little in the morning then start reassembly. This is the first time in days that I've even had a chance to touch it. Free time is slim right now. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,874 #46 Posted July 25, 2018 6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: sounds like a coffe grinder 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #47 Posted July 25, 2018 I don't see anything wrong with your transmission, except that chipped tooth. Weld it up and grind or file it. The parts in your 1960's trans could be used in your RJ trans... Here is the deal...if you want to change the bull gear/differential housing, you probably have the newer model...which means that you will have to change the mushroom gear also. They are pairs. Also, The service bulletin says that if you use a mushroom gear from a trans that has the needle bearing on the brake shaft, you need to put four #1197 shims under the mushroom gear on the left side of the trans. The other gears in the 60's trans are also interchangeable in your RJ trans. The service bulletin also talks about the number of teeth on the inside of the 2 fork gears and the pinion that goes on the end of the spline shaft. Early ones have 10 teeth...later models have 11 teeth. If both have the same number of teeth, any of it is changeable with it's counter part. If you have one set with 10 teeth and the other has 11, you can change it, but you need to change the whole set (spline shaft, both fork gears and that pinion. Know this...if your RJ trans has gears with 10 teeth, then that horse is Serial Number 11627 or less in 1958. It would follow that, if your trans has 11 teeth it is Serial Number 11628 or later in 1958. As far as a noisy trans, I would add a pint of Lucas Oil additive with the 90 wt when you put it back together. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #48 Posted July 25, 2018 Thanks @stevasaurus! Lots of good info there! I've felt worn out today, so I didn't get to the shop. I hope to tomorrow night. I spent the morning looking at some of your YouTube videos and for anyone who hasn't shame on you!!! I'll post an update as I get back to the tranny. The help and encouragement the community here gives means more than you guys know. That's one of the reasons I stay wheel horse loyal! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #49 Posted July 25, 2018 If you really want to see what is possible with these little trannys...look through this thread. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,201 #50 Posted July 26, 2018 Keep at it Dell, I have zero knowledge of that transmission, so I can only give you encouragement but no sound advice. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites