Raider 12 drive belt slipping

[WH654 23]

The drive belt on my raider 12 slips but, if i pull the clutch pedal back with my foot it engages well. Could the return spring on this 49 year old machine be weak or do i simply need to replace the belt?

[953 nut 55,773]

Probably time to replace both.

[WH654 23]

2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Probably time to replace both.

I found a discussion on here an which belt to use but, where would i get the spring?

[WH654 23]

Toro # 83-2730 found it.

[WH654 23]

Well i bought this belt:

 

TORO or WHEEL HORSE 7473 made with Kevlar Replacement Belt 5/8 x 82"

 

 

And it will not disengage. I tried a bunch of different settings on the finger that stops the belt and nothing worked so, i put the stock belt back on to get the lawn mowed but, i still need to replace the belt...is there an exact belt that should be used?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

Did you have the belt guard on? The belt needs to land on the bottom lip of the guard when it is slack. That forces the slack to the engine pulley so it slips.

 

Garry

[WH654 23]

Yes, i had the belt guard on and it still would not disengage. Three times i had the belt guard off trying different adjustments.

 

Do i have to move the entire belt guard forward or back to get it set right? Should the belt that i bought work or is it the wrong belt?

 

I measured the belt and it is 5/8" wide and held it up to the old belt and the diameter is just slightly smaller than the old one so the length seems to be correct as well.

 

Is there a video that shows how to adjust it?

 

Thank you very much for the help, i spent a few hours messing with it and couldn't get it to disengage.

[illinilefttackle 399]

I had the same problem on the "Yellow 953" I had. It turned out to be that because the same pedal that works the brake, works the clutch- the brake adjustment is too early and won't let the pedal to travel far enough to disengage & engage properly- Set the brake so it doesn't activate til right at the last of the pedal movement- then your clutch will be fine- Al

[WH654 23]

2 hours ago, illinilefttackle said:

I had the same problem on the "Yellow 953" I had. It turned out to be that because the same pedal that works the brake, works the clutch- the brake adjustment is too early and won't let the pedal to travel far enough to disengage & engage properly- Set the brake so it doesn't activate til right at the last of the pedal movement- then your clutch will be fine- Al

Ah... that makes sense. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

[WH654 23]

Well i set the brake far out on the clutch pedal travel and now i can get the tractor to stop while in gear but, it is slipping on the trans pulley not the engine pulley which shouldn't hurt anything but, be a little hard on the belt. I wonder how long it will take for the belt to loosen up enough to work properly? Hopefully just a few weeks of mowing because it is hard to shift from forward to reverse sometimes and keep the belt from grabbing the trans pulley and causing it to grind.

 

I also drained the trans and put fresh oil in it and was pleasantly surprised that the oil level was not low and it was't very dirty.

[WH654 23]

 Well I had to buy all new belts for the deck and in talking to the old guy that owned this Toro wheel horse dealership forever he told me that it’s important to have a finger on both the top and the bottom of the belt right by the crank pulley so that when you push the clutch in the slack is forced to go away from the drive pulley and allows the bell to slip so you can shift gears.  So I took the belt guard back off and realized that the bottom finger was broken off the guard and that was my actual problem.  So I added a new finger on the bottom and it works beautifully now.

[WH654 23]