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Similar Content
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By Bill D
I have a GT1800 that I have swapped an M14 into. The original drive belt is too long for the Kohler. I tried a 7473 belt and that was too long. I'm guessing I need an 81" belt. Does anyone know for sure? I'm thinking it should be the same length as a 314H? I'm trying to avoid multiple trips to TSC with the price of gas. Yes, I do have the correct hydro pulley on the Kohler. Thanks.
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By RedPaul
I need some wiring help. I am swapping a Kohler CV16S from a Scotts (JD) in to a Crapsman YT 3000 that formerly had A Briggs engine. PO of Crapsman forgot the part about checking oil regularly. PO of Scotts changed engine oil but didn't own a grease gun thuse entire front steering gear trashed.
Before you start throwing things at the screen, the resulting franken tractor (Scottsman CraftDeere?) is being donated for use in maintenance of a city park in the Mexican Town area of Detroit.
The company I work for donates time, people, and a storage area for park maintenance tools and equipment. Owner is Hispanic and doe gobs of stuff for the community both personally and through our company.
On to the question.
I need to marry up the Kohler engine wiring with the Craftsman chassis wiring.
The Craftsman chassis has the following wires coming to the molex connector that used to connect to the Briggs engine.
Chassis Blue - Connected to Grey from the Briggs
Chassis Blue jumperd to second hole connector - Connected to Red From the Briggs
Chassis Black and Black with white stripe - both to same connector hole - Connected to Black from the Briggs
Chassis Orange - Connected to Orange from the briggs
Chassis White - this wire did not connect to anything on the briggs
Kohler engine has the following wires coming from the engine going to Molex connector
2 Red - both go to same connection point
Yellow
Black
White
Can anyone tell me which Kohler engine wire goes to which Craftsman Chassis wire?
Free Scotts Chassis with hydro (it would be a roller if the front axles weren't trashed) to whom ever can sort this out.
Thanks,
Paul
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By The_turbo_tuba
I have a wheel horse 516-h and I am looking to swap in a kohler single cylinder model like a k-341 or k321. Or a magnum series single cylinder. Does anyone have any idea what the swap will entail, what parts will carry over and what things I should look for on the kohler. Also I believe the mounting plate on the current set up can be removed to fit a kohler perfectly like they would be set up on like a 310-8. In new to wheel horse so I appreciate anyone's help! Thanks!
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By wheelhorsejoe
Hi Members, I am doing an engine swap in a 1988 W/H 520H replaced Onan 20hp with a B&S 18 hp twin opposed I/C. My problem is connecting the OEM main engine harness to the B/S, the B/S has a kill wire and the alternator wire go the the regulator. My problem is I don't know what wire is what in the harness and I'm unable to find a wiring schematic does anyone know the break down of the wire harness.. Any help is appreciated.. Thanks Joe
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By mikekot3
Hello
I want to buy the seat mentioned in Martin Howard's 416 adventures. I tried to contact him but he is not able to receive emails through red square.
I have a 1993 WH 416-8 tractor. He used a KM UNIPRO 123 seat from www.turfseats.com
Which seat switch do I use on the replacement seat? My used my FLUKE 88 dvom in auto ranging mode to test the original seat switch. With the
seat switch disconnected I get a ohm reading and O.L when I sit on the seat. I am thinking that tells me
that the seat is Normally OPEN. Am I correct in this? Did the KM seat switch come with a pigtail for wire it up?
If not how do I install the switch? Where did you get the seat rubber bumpers for the swing up seat base? I believe they were black or grey.
Also I installed a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard v-twin 23 hp engine swap kit from small engine warehouse.
The hour meter does not work any more after replacing the swapped in engine. I was thinking that a aftermarket hour meter/tach from esitest.com would
work. http://esitest.com/329.html
My other question is that I can only start the tractor by turning the key and also turning the light switch ON to engage
the starter motor. I am thinking one of the power wires in the white AMP engine harness connector is in the wrong pin position as I had to
replace the connector.
Please advise,
Michael Kotarba
mkotarba@hotmail.com
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