K241S Slight Popping

[Stealth126 54]

Hey guys. Other than needing a few carb cleanings after tinkering with the fuel system, the K241S on my 1067 runs good with very little smoke other than a slight popping, maybe even a puffing sound occasionally from the exhaust. When I get the carb adjusted just right it doesn't do it at all at an idle, will do it every 5 or 6 seconds under load or at full throttle. Is there something I can do to get rid of it? Any body know what the cause of it is?

[Daddy Don 907]

Check the gap on your points sometime they will change gap setting and cause this problem when you rev the engine up.  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,246]

Could be the valves are slow to close at times. I found Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel eliminated it. Lubricates the valve stems.

After a few tanks it may pay to check the valve adjustment if you have not already.

 

Garry

[squonk 42,572]

I had the exact problem. Try leaning your high speed setting out a smidge at a time to see if it improves any. I got mine to stop popping to almost maybe 1 time a minute warmed up.

[Stealth126 54]

Okay. I just leaned the high speed setting by almost a quarter turn yesterday after I cut the grass and before I shut it down. I will have to see what effect that has next time I run it.

[Stealth126 54]

Next, I've been running Seafoam in almost every tank since I've owned it the last couple months. So it's had seafoam in probably 5 tanks of gas. Does that serve the same purpose as Mystery Oil? If not, or if you don't think it's as good, I will switch and try that.

[Stealth126 54]

I have only recently started being interested in mechanical things since getting my Wheel Horse, so I don't know how to check the gap on my points or check valve settings. Before I head straight to YouTube, any instruction or advice on how to do those things?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,246]

I think Seafoam is an excellent fuel system cleaner but believe the Marvel Mystery oil does a better job of lubrication the valve stems. There is something in it that does not burn off. If you use it a spark plug always looks wet which tells me it is also present in the exhuast and that is how the valve stems get lubed. The old Gravely T-head engines are notorious for exhaust valves seizing in the guide so tight you can't get them out. Use MM oil and never a problem.

 

If you try the MM oil use it for a while before checking the valve adjustment. I find you get better results. I did my valves and started using the MM oil. Ended up redoing the valves twice before the third check revealed they held their position. Suspect carbon was the cause of them changing and the MM oil just needed time to do it's job. Do not know how much carbon was on the valves as I never opened it up.

 

This old Kohler service manual is appropriate for your 1067.

Best copy and you can open just the section you want.

Lower resolution but a single file

Garry

[Stealth126 54]

Thanks again for everything. A few more questions before I get started. First of all, I will use the mystery oil. Do I use that as a replacement for Seafoam? Meaning it will accomplish the same thing with added benefit of lubricating the valve stems? Do I use it all the time like I do with Seafoam? Or in an occasional tank? I will also change the spark plug. It's run so good that I haven't done that yet. What plug would be best replacement of the one in the manual for my engine and application? And I just read an article that says I should be using fuel with no ethanol in it. I have just been getting my fuel at the Shell station. I heard somewhere that fuel octane would have been higher in the 60s and 70s. I'm not sure if that's true, but I have been using premium just in case. It doesn't say it has ethanol in it, but the article said they don't always say. What fuel should I be using? And if different where do I get it?

[Stealth126 54]

Also, I have only been using the Seafoam in my fuel. Are you recommending I put the mystery oil in the crankcase too?

[Stealth126 54]

I did some more research today and found a website that listed a station in my town that sells pure gas. Called them up and confirmed. They sell 90 octane ethanol free. 3 minutes from my house.

[lynnmor 7,568]

I would try the ethanol free gas and forget about using other products in the fuel and oil.  Gasoline and oil have all the additives necessary already in them.  If a problem develops, it is time to fix that problem, not depend on some magic elixir to somehow put the dirt or whatever in the proper place.

[953 nut 57,969]

10 hours ago, Stealth126 said:

I don't know how to check the gap on my points

The ignition point setting will not only establish the ability to generate a spark, it also sets your ignition timing. There is a method called static timing that will do both and give you the best results. you will need a meter or continuity test light and will probably want to remove the flywheel cover.

Kohler static_timing.pdf

[Stealth126 54]

I changed the spark plug and have been using mystery oil. No pure fuel yet. Almost finished up with my tank of premium. I continue to lean the high speed setting as much as I can once the engine is warmed up. It is still popping every 10 seconds or so under load and full throttle. So that's a small improvement so far. The thing I'm curious about is why every time I run it I'm able to lean it out a little more and it still runs good. In theory shouldn't there be a set place where it runs as lean as it can? Could it be that the mystery oil is cleaning out buildup that affects the amount of fuel needed to run efficiently? I've noticed in the last couple days I can start it with no choke. Been warmer outside too, but interesting to keep an eye on.

[Stealth126 54]

Like I stated in a previous post, I am not a mechanic, so I would like to get your input as to the best way to maintain an older engine like this. Currently this is my only tractor and I would like to use it for mowing and snowblowing indefinitely. It uses a little oil, only smokes when throttling up quickly and not very much at that. So since I know nothing about the history of the tractor would you recommend looking into having it rebuilt? Given that I want to use it regularly? Or maybe do a valve job and check the rings? Or maybe just run it until I run into an issue? Would like to see the different thoughts on this.

[Stealth126 54]

Update: Last night after mowing I adjusted the high speed setting again. Looks like it's leaned as much as it will go as far as I can tell. This is two adjustments in a row that I can't lean it any more. When held at full throttle last night to adjust, it only popped 2 or 3 times the whole time I held it open. If I had to guess maybe once every 25 or 30 seconds. That's improvement every time since using Mystery Oil. The new spark plug is getting some carbon on it, and appears wet. I'm thinking I'll just keep using the Mystery Oil and see where I get after another couple tanks.

[oliver2-44 10,370]

I had the same problem on my C160 k341 that I picked up a year ago. It is a good tractor but the filthy engine and tranny oil indicated it had been neglected. I used the “Kohler Static Timing” keyhole listed above. My point gap went from 20 to 17 thousands   I agree with running MM for a several tanks the Chechen tuning  then check the valve clearance and timing.   There’s lots of help here so just keep asking questions as you work on it and watch you mechanical ability grow

 

 

 

[WHNJ701 4,165]

did you decarbon the head?

[Stealth126 54]

Picked up a cheap leakdown tester from harbor freight. Was all excited to test until I figured out I can't even find top dead center on my engine. The shroud must cover any peep hole that I've seen on videos. Also on this engine the spark plug is between the exhaust and intake valves not over the piston like in videos I've watched. How the heck do I find it? 

[Stealth126 54]

Obviously I could take everything off the outside of the engine shroud and take it off to see if there is a peep hole, but I figured I'd ask you guys before I tore the whole thing apart only to find out there is an easier way.

[oldredrider 2,553]

Take off the PTO bell. You can then see the key way on the crankshaft. When it is at the top of rotation, you are at TDC.

[Stealth126 54]

Okay. I'll try it tonight later. Thanks. 

[squonk 42,572]

2 hours ago, Stealth126 said:

Obviously I could take everything off the outside of the engine shroud and take it off to see if there is a peep hole, but I figured I'd ask you guys before I tore the whole thing apart only to find out there is an easier way.

I use a TDC whistle. Put it in the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand. When it stops whistling it's at TDC

[953 nut 57,969]

2 hours ago, oldredrider said:

Take off the PTO bell. You can then see the key way on the crankshaft. When it is at the top of rotation, you are at TDC.

Oldredrider knows his cranks!

[Shynon 7,475]

17 minutes ago, squonk said:

I use a TDC whistle.