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pickledhorse

RJ58 & Suburban 1961 400(?) resto

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Guest fireman

pickledhorse,

As far as rebuiding the rear end goes, I think it depends on wether you are doing a full restore or just a makeover. I hear a lot of guys say they have restored their tractors when really all they did was clean, and repaint. If this is all you plan on doing than just do what tj4428 recomended, just change the fluid and let it roll.

If you want to do a full restore, than take it apart, replace the bronze bushings, the bearings and the seals. I have the part numbers and locations of were to get them if you need them. The gaskets can be had on Ebay from a seller named ousoonerflags. He lists them every so often and much cheaper then Toro.

Just my $.02

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buckrancher

Pickledhorse,

Too bad you bought the K-91 after you found that out. The engine is the right hp and will work fine but it is just the exhaust port.

To me, you have 2 options.

1. have somebody tap the exhaust port with threads

2.make a flange with threads on it. [there was a guy selling the adapters on ebay for a while]

Charlie

option number #3

sell me that nice shiny kohler k91 :whistle:

and buy an old one :thumbs:

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pickledhorse

Little R&D, added a plate to bottom of tank for more cathode exposure

wh_3_22004.jpg

Also added a 5 volt regulator to bring voltage to about 2 volts in water. (this came from a search on "electrolysis rust" where talked about voltage. Probably doestn't matter much on old tractors, but my meter does read 2 volts now.

wh_3_22008.jpg

mad scientist & Igor mixing the brew

wh_3_22006.jpgwork in progress - pulled it out today and paint is bubbled and rusty metal is starting to shine wh_3_22007.jpg

Thanks to Coadster for the idea and info on posting multiple pics. :omg: (See 551 restore for info.)

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Coadster32

WOW, you did a great job on the tank!!! Plating the bottom was a bomb-diggetty idea. Rebar all around works great also. (I found that they rust up fast, but you have alot in there). I watch more of the amp meter. When it starts drawing alot less amps, you need to sand the plates and rebar. FYI-I was using about 4 amps constant. Sometimes it would be 16volts. I suppose anything will work. That is a jamming setup! Mike gave me the idea,(sowarski-sorry I slaughtered it). Hope you get the results I did. :omg:

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HorseFixer

Looks like the youngins are having fun! :omg:

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Coadster32

I just thought of something. When you're done with a part, and the tank sits dormant, all of the rust sinks to the bottom of the tank. This would cover up your plate. I thought about taking the metal, and bending it aroung the inside walls of the tank. When the plate gets corroded, you need to scrape the rust off, otherwise the effect goes way down. If you could watch your amps as you do this, you'll see what I mean.

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linen beige

Coadster has brought up a very good point. Part of this process includes pulling the sacraficial electrodes out of the solution every few hours and cleaning the rust off of them to retore the flow of current. They are also eaten away by the process and have to be replaced after a few days. Although your workmanship on the tank is top notch, it kinda hinders the ability to easily clean/ replace the parts that are going to wear out.

You also need to use steel wire or chain to hang your items in the solution so that you can hook your copper ground wire to the chain outside the solution. You don't want to have any copper in the solution.

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Coadster32

You don't want to have any copper in the solution.

I've been hanging my parts with metal coat hangers. What does copper in the solution do?? :omg:

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linen beige

What does copper in the solution do?? :omg:

All the articles I have read on this process caution against getting copper wire into the solution. None have gone into specifics, they just say it can get really nasty,etc.

I suspect that using copper as a ground can cause your good parts to be plated with a fine layer of copper. Copper and steel do not mix and can set up their own electrolytic process that will corrode the steel. Maybe it creates something in the solution that is not safe for the environment?

Any chemists care to enlighten us?...Steve?

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