RadRacer203 0 #1 Posted May 7, 2018 Just picked up my first tractor (or maybe riding mower?), a '68 or so Lawn Ranger. I stole it for $50 but it didn't have the original motor and the throttle assembly is pretty hacked up. I got it running last week and the motor bent a valve really badly so I got a cheap late 70's replacement out of a snowblower. It's almost back together and good to go, but I can't seem to find the correct governor spring to get the throttle working. I know I need a short spring, probably about 2" or so but I can't find the correct one because I don't have the original model number to look up. Here's a couple pics of the tractor and one of the throttle assembly, hopefully they attache properly. Overall in really good shape, good transaxle and just a little rust in the front of the mower deck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,168 #2 Posted May 7, 2018 Service manual help? Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #3 Posted May 7, 2018 Garry, that helps some, I'm definitely going to keep it around. I couldn't find the part number I needed though. I did some more digging and I came up with part number 31386. Can anyone confirm this is right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,168 #4 Posted May 8, 2018 Picture of the spring http://www.partstree.com/parts/tecumseh/parts/31386/ If you click on one of the lines it takes you to the parts list Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #5 Posted May 8, 2018 Great, thanks! I picked up that spring and it's definitely the one I needed. The engine runs pretty good now that I adjusted the governor. Some more tuning on the carb and figuring out why the mower deck won't spin is next on the agenda. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #6 Posted May 8, 2018 Great machines. From picture i think you are missing the little wire guide (#100) that keeps the deck belt in line and allows it to slip when not engaged. When you release the foot lever the springs will pull teh idler assembly up tighten the belt and it should work, You can see where the idler pulley has scuffed eh belt guard...Happens all the time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #7 Posted May 8, 2018 I didn't even realize there was such a piece, does anyone make a reproduction? And I see what it does now. My deck still spins even when it's not engaged. I think that's the last piece I need, the engine runs good now, the governor is adjusted right this time, and the mower deck unstuck itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #8 Posted May 8, 2018 I will take some close ups of mine and a couple measurements. You can make one pretty easily bending some stock Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #9 Posted May 8, 2018 That would be great, thanks. Looks like I'll be needing another engine now too... My $30 replacement just threw a rod out the side of the block Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #10 Posted May 8, 2018 (edited) Ouch!!! it is 3/16" rod the Slot head bolt is 5/16 NF Edited May 8, 2018 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #11 Posted May 8, 2018 That shouldn't be too hard to make. I'll just have to find the right size rod. I also found a new engine and got it installed on there. No electric start anymore but it's in a lot better shape than the last one. Still having a hard time getting it running right though. The problem is I have like 5 different carb frankensteined into 1 and I can't figure out what the initial settings are supposed to be. Any suggestions? About the only spec I know is that the main jet says "3" on the side. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,147 #12 Posted May 8, 2018 If the engine is another Tecumseh, search on epay. $20 for a new one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #13 Posted May 8, 2018 Yeah, I have one but I was going to put it on my mini bike. This one is in really nice shape anyway. It just seems like turning the screws doesn't really change how it runs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #14 Posted May 10, 2018 I figured out the timing was off, so I adjusted it the best I could but it's still not running great. It'll actually rev now, but it revs really high and backfires the whole time, with a puff of smoke when it backfires Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #15 Posted May 13, 2018 Is there anyone in Central MA that could take a look at this thing? I'm about at my wit's end trying to get this motor to run right. I've messed with the timing, changed magnetos, tried 3 different carbs, tried all sorts of adjustments for the governor, 4 different spark plugs, and more... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,144 #16 Posted May 13, 2018 Do you have... or, have tried a search for the manual for your engine? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/15-other/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #17 Posted May 13, 2018 I did look at a few different manuals, but they weren't much help. I set it to the factory starting points for the carb, governor, mag, etc but still no dice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #18 Posted May 13, 2018 What model number is the engine you are working on now? Techumseh used differing carb linkages does your set up look like either of these. Techies work best if they are left alone. Mine all run really well. But i have come across some that people tried to "work on" usually they made things worse then sold it. The manuals are really pretty good if you are using the right one for your engine. The yellow line is where the throttle cable would come in if she was mounted at the moment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #19 Posted May 13, 2018 I'm using the same throttle linkage as I posted the picture of before, and in the second of your pictures. I swapped the linkage over from the old engine(s) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #20 Posted May 13, 2018 Is it an H60...or an HH60 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #21 Posted May 13, 2018 It's an H70. I think it originally had an H60 but I could only find H70's locally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #22 Posted May 13, 2018 Just to make sure is the engine block aluminum or cast iron. (H is aluminum HH is cast iron.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #23 Posted May 13, 2018 It's definitely not an HH. No rust on the block but there's some white corrosion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,103 #24 Posted May 13, 2018 Then the manual linked above is the correct one. i have never had to resort to the dial indicator to set the points but if some one has "worked " on it you may have to. If the carb is questionable you might want to buy an aftermarket Chinese cheapy they actually work pretty well out of the box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RadRacer203 0 #25 Posted May 13, 2018 I double checked all that and put on one of those chinese carbs. Still ran the same no matter how I adjusted it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
