C-161 Hydro Clutch Won't Disengage

[Phil902 70]

Idler Pulley failed. Replaced it and the drive belt which had chunks missing out of the underside. The pulley came from Stens, and matched up perfectly with the old one. After reading several posts here I went with a TSC belt, 85x5/8.

I had a really hard time getting the belt on. Partly due to my worn out hands, and lack of strength. Now, the lever that engages/disengages the clutch is fully up, (disengage position), and won't go fully down to engage position. However, the tractor drives fine, stops and moves the motion/speed lever to neutral when I step on the brake, and the tractor is way faster than before. The belt is so tight that the pulley cant fully descend but the old belt measures roughly 85, using a metal carpenter's tape as carefully as possible, 

 

I may have the assorted pieces assembled incorrectly. The IPL and service manual are not much help in that regard. In fact the IPL diagram shows the engagement control lever upside down.) I have tried every configuration possible, I think,  I also tried with the brake set, and the brake off. Any suggestions? 

[Ed Kennell 38,687]

A picture would help.

[953 nut 55,837]

There is a shoulder spacer behind the idler that allows the bolt to be tightened and yet slide up and down through a channel. Take a look to be sure this is happening, don't have to be too far off to have what you are describing. 

[wallfish 17,083]

The drive belt should not be tight on the pulleys without the engage idler pulley applying tension down on the belt. The belt should've easily fit onto the 2 drive pulleys with plenty of slack to allow it to disengage. The engagement idler pulley rides on TOP of the belt, the flat side and pushes down on the belt for engagement.

I don't know what the correct length belt should be but it's either too short or somehow routed wrong or maybe the original pulley was changed or.... Maybe wrong size belt in the package? You'd be surprised how much of a difference an inch can make when it comes to belts so being "roughly" for the size may not work.

Cut the old belt and it's much easier to measure the length when it's not in a loop.

 

Just throwing out suggestions but a Pic is worth a thousand words.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

Info on original belts

 

C-161 Auto Transmission drive belt # 7478 replaces # 4535 (HB/5L x 84.22" or 5/8" x 84.22")

 

C-161 Twin Auto Transmission drive belt 106496 - (HB x 85.60" or 5/8" x 85.6")

 

Garry

[Phil902 70]

Here are pictures. Garry, thanks for the belt info. I also found an old post where you posted a link to the service manuals. Thanks for that also. I apologize for not specifying earlier that I have the twin. Per Wallfish's suggestion, I cut the old belt. It's 84 1/2, and was loose enough that the idler assembly rattled like a coffee can full of rocks when disengaged. I measured the new belt, it's exactly 84 1/2.

 

953, it's hard to see, but I think the spacer is moving in the cutout. I put a very light coat of grease on today wherever metal on metal occurs. Less resistance, same degree of throw. The spring doesn't seem to change position much if at all between engaged and disengaged. The original part number for the pulley was 7434. That changed to Toro part 112426. The Toro dealer told me it must have changed again, because its not in his database.  Several places had aftermarket replacements for both the WH and the Toro numbers. I went with the Stens, I've had good luck with them.

 

For what its worth, when I saw the seized pulley, I didn't pay any attention to positioning of levers and arms. I thought it would be like the idler pulleys I'd done on a couple of my cars; take off tension, unbolt, remove, replace. I was surprised when everything slammed down when I removed the pulley. Without the pulley attached, the arm gets pulled all the way down. That will also happen if the belt is above the pulley. 

 

Someone was in here before me at some point. There was no washer or cotter pin on the end of the stud thru the bottom of the clutch lever and there was no washer between parts as shown on the IPL diagram. The IPL shows an  Eslock nut on what is a smooth unthreaded stud in front of where the stud enters the bottom of the clutch lever. That makes no sense to me even if it was a threaded shaft. This probably one of those deals where I bruise my forehead slapping it when the issue is recognized. Ill take the pain if somebody else's eyes can spot the trouble. I appreciate the help, and this site. 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

A possible fix for the noisy coffee can. Click on the picture

Garry

[Phil902 70]

Thanks Garry. If the rattle reappears I'll try that. 

[varosd 1,185]

I liked New Wave

B-52’s

New Order

oh, new wave washer!!

i did my Work Horse 18 hp Briggs

and didn’t have that washer and it rattled like a “chock full of nuts” coffee can

but the 90 416 didn’t rattle when I replaced the idler?

i only use WH parts/belts. 

strange.