Jump to content

 
Countdown To Christmas!
 

 
hunterguy92

Removing Input Shaft Pulley

By hunterguy92, in Transmissions and transaxles

Recommended Posts

hunterguy92    17

hunterguy92
Posted (edited)

Greetings everyone-

 

After draining the old molasses out of my transmission, quickly flushing with diesel and refilling with 85-W140 my left rear axle and input shaft seal drip a little each day. 

Thanks to this forum I found the seals I need at Napa, but am a little nervous pulling off the input shaft pulley without damaging the pulley itself. Any advice/write-ups on this?

This photo is as I bought the tractor. Am I missing a bolt and washer?

 

Thanks for the help guys!

E6285B7B-0376-4833-A91A-7D267FEBCEBB.jpeg

Edited by hunterguy92

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

stevasaurus    22,870

stevasaurus
Posted

Not missing anything.  A Allen head set screw is what holds the pulley on the shaft.  These pulleys are usually not froze on the shaft.  I usually try a 2' pry bar between the case and the pulley.  Turn the pulley as you "Gently" tap the pry bar.  Something like a nail puller that fits between the fins might work also.  :)

  • Excellent 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

clueless    3,012

clueless
Posted

After cleaning out two trans, one with kerosene, and one with diesel, and filling them back with oil, they both had some leaking around some of the seals. I posted the question here why would they leak now, when they didn't before. A couple of members said that it happens sometimes you use kerosene or diesel, because they are thinner than the oil and not all of it was completely drained. They said after using the tractor a little it usually stops, they were right. Just put a rag under it for awhile, it may stop on its own. 

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

WHX??    49,176

WHX??
Posted
37 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Allen head set screw is what holds the pulley on the shaft. 

:text-yeahthat:

Set screw is located on the BACKSIDE of the pulley right on top of the keyway I have circled. A long handle hex wrench works best.  Personally and mostly cause I am anal  I would pull the input and replace because the seals are cheap and seals are designed to eventually wear out. I had a piece of baler twine wrapped around one of mine once causing a leak so you can check for that kind of mischief.   Also while you have the tire off you can check endplay in the outboard needle bearing. Often the cause of a leaky axle seal. Neither procedure required the cases to be split unless other issues are found

E6285B7B-0376-4833-A91A-7D267FEBCEBB_jpeg_a1d760ff0c1a8797c22a337a78f8114a.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

hunterguy92    17

hunterguy92
Posted

You guys pretty much covered it!

Been driving it around a little more and sure enough the axle seal is no longer leaking and the input shaft seal has slowed a little. 

I’ll probably change that out when I get sick of the shop rag underneath the tractor!

 

Thank you!

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Go To Topic Listing
  • Similar Content
     
     
    • giant_g2
      8 spd Transmission for sale
      By giant_g2
      Not sure on specific model. This 8 spd came attached to a plow I bought. It had some water in it for a couple weeks according to the prior owner. I drained it, sloshed some diesel in it, drained that, then filled with fresh oil. Spinning the input shaft by hand, I can see the axels turn. Hasn't leaked any oil. I'm not really interested in shipping, so I'd prefer local sales.

    • Doug B
      GT14
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      Complete Pedal Kits for Hydrostatic Wheelhorse / Toro Tractors
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      1990s 520H Transmission Swap
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
    • Porkskin
      Pushing a Wheel Horse 312-A
      By Porkskin
      I have no understanding of what it is like to push one of these when the trans is disengaged and motion lever is in the forward position as the manual mentions. I hope this is not old ground and that I am not cross posting. With the trans disengaged and motion lever set forward there is still something spinning in and about the transaxle that is giving resistance. I need to know if this is normal or if I should be expecting more of a free wheeling experience. In effect, much less resistance. Thank you for comments or pointing me to a topic that already covers this. 
    		 
×
  • Create New...