Trying to Identify my horse to get service manuals for all areas of it

[JP56 38]

I purchased what I was told by the seller, to be a "partially restored" 1975 C Series. I have it now for 3 seasons & have concluded that this restoration consisted of replacing a few bolts and repainting it and replacing some of the decals. The seller told me he "screwed up" on the Model Decals when he ordered them, & put the wrong one on it (C120), but did not tell me the correct one that should be on it, and he gave me a 1975 C Series Owners Manual with it. I am wondering if the Model Numbers correlate to the horsepower of the engines. If that is the case, I must have a C100, because mine has the Kohler 10 HP engine, which is labeled as a K241S. It has an 8 Speed Manual Transmission.

 

After getting it home and using it, I put it in my shed & the next time I went to use it, I see the transmission/gearbox has leaked oil onto the shed floor, appears to be coming from the seam between the two halves of the rear-end. I also see a heavy black greasy film build up at both axle seals & also around the brake drum seal. I am now in doubt of the recommended oil for the rear end. Some of the online forums say that they had begun using transmission fluid as a replacement for older types of lubes, while others say 10-30 motor oil. I saw someplace which I can't seem to find again right now, that 85W-140 gear lube was what should be used. The oil level on the dipstick has not dropped to low levels, and appears to be motor oil, so after searching around and also checking the manual given to me with the tractor, I top off the level with 10W-30 as spec'd on page 5 of the manual(if this is indeed the right manual for my year and model). 

 

My problem now, is that last season, it suddenly seemed to get a bit sluggish & slow down as it gets warmer during use. I believe my sluggishness problem might be due to the leak in the box seam and possibly also the type of fluid/lube in the case of the transmission/gearbox. I had already tweaked the carb as best I could, changed the fuel filter, replaced the spark plug due to a hard starting condition and rough running, & it seems to be running fine right now except for a backfire when shutting it down. I have purchased a replacement carb for it that I have to put on now, & I am pretty sure I need to locate & change the points as well. 

 

Anyway I am hoping that someone can point me towards the right manuals, by placing all numbers I have been able to find on it here so I can hopefully find the right service/repair manuals (hopefully as free downloads someplace online) for the different systems. 

 

Tractor:

Model: 103909

Serial Number: 47404

 

Engine:

Model: K241S

Specs: 46636D

S/N: 6097616

 

Deck: 0542M505

 

All Numbers on Transmission/Gearbox Casting:

A24

8163 or B163 ?(Cannot Read Clearly)

101761 or 1017G1 ?(Cannot Read Clearly)

 

Any and all advice/info anyone can supply me with on this would be greatly appreciated! Also, any tips on good places to purchase reasonably priced parts would be good as well.

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by JP56

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,314]

So could the model number be 1-0390 ?

  If so...1974 C Series Garden Tractor Raider 10 8-Speed Kohler K241S-46636D.

  If it is in deed a manual trans machine then 80-90 weight gear oil is fine, 10w-30 is to thin. 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,112]

K-241S  =10HP  w/electric starter

engine s/n 46636D = 1974

tractor s/n 1-0390 = 1974 Raider 10   w/ 8 speed Wheel Horse # 5091 transmission

85-140W gear oil is the correct lube for the gear transmission.

ATF or 30W oil is only used in the hydraulic transmissions.

Edited April 19, 2018 by Ed Kennell

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,039]

Raider 10 in Europe and a C-100 8-speed in North America

A later service manual but you will find it useful

Garry

[JP56 38]

Sparky, Ed & Garry,

Thanks for the really fast replies and for the great files! Much appreciated! I had a 1971 horse years ago that was quite old but did a great job until it died on me. It was pretty old and not very well kept when I bought it from the son of an old man that recently died, and the deck was perforated all over beyond repair too but I loved the power and the way the 3 blade deck cut the grass.

After that I had a new K-Grow which sucked, got rid of that the got a new Craftsman which sucked even worse, so dumped that in favor of this old horse.

I want to redo the transmission case gaskets (I think it was put together metal on metal w/o a gasket) & seals, and hope to be able to find the sheet metal covers for the deck belts & spindles and possibly some wheel weights for it, since it seems to want to spin the tires too much.

Hopefully the case overhaul and new heavy oil will eliminate my sluggish performance. I love the old horses!

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,314]

If the motor doesn’t skip a beat but the tractor seems to lose umph...I would check that the drive belt isn’t shot and that the clutch pedal return spring is in good working order.

[Ed Kennell 38,112]

I would certainly change the points and the condenser.  Decreasing performance with higher engine temperature could be a spark issue.

[JP56 38]

36 minutes ago, Sparky said:

If the motor doesn’t skip a beat but the tractor seems to lose umph...I would check that the drive belt isn’t shot and that the clutch pedal return spring is in good working order.

Belts are one of the problems. With what I had found before the info I got today, I ordered 2 belts and only one of them fit. Can't remember if it was the main belt under the side cover that fit ot not.  Am printing out the manuals I got here today and will be going through to find the right belts for replacing them all.

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by JP56
typo

[JP56 38]

7 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I would certainly change the points and the condenser.  Decreasing performance with higher engine temperature could be a spark issue.

Thanks! I do intend to do just that as well as put the new carb on. I am guessing that the original carb was messed with to the point that you can't set it as well as you should be able to anymore. Any tips as to places for ordering parts? The engine seems to run pretty good, and I possibly didn't describe what I mean by sluggish. It seems that on start up and first beginning to  cut, the thing moves along at a good clip. But as I am mowing and it gets hotter, the speed seems to get much much slower. The engine doesn't seem to sound any different, like it's missing or slowing down or racing, just the tractor seems to be moving much slower the warmer it gets. That's why I was suspecting the gearbox and fluid, because of the oil leaks and not knowing exactly what oil is in it to begin with. I very much appreciate any tips, hints or clues. I have been so darned busy here lately I haven't even had a chance to pull it out & start it yet as I am swamped with work around here and getting older & slower! I do know I need one or two of the belts replaced, the carb changed and the leaks fixed though. Just a matter of figuring out the exact part numbers I need and finding where the best place to get them is, price wise & speed of delivery wise. The front tires were leaking air since I first got it, so I pulled them & put in those "Slime" tubes and they work great! Hated the thought of getting new tubeless tires when the treads were still so good. A lot of small quirky stuff to be done on it though, like having to wiggle the shifter or roll the tractor a bit once in a while to get the gears to shift. I have been my own car mechanic for 46 years now & the only thing I haven't done on a car myself is rebuild a tranny. There tractors are completely new animals to me when it comes to working on them though. I suspect maybe some spacers are worn or missing causing the shifting glitch, or possibly some of the linkage points are too worn & need replacing. I had hoped to do a tear down on it this past winter, but time and a few health issues put the cabosh on those plans, & suddenly it's time to cut the grass very soon now.

[JP56 38]

44 minutes ago, Sparky said:

If the motor doesn’t skip a beat but the tractor seems to lose umph...I would check that the drive belt isn’t shot and that the clutch pedal return spring is in good working order.

When you say drive belt, are you referring to the one under the cover on the side? I will check the clutch spring as well. I had to completely take the deck apart last season and clean it thoroughly because of rust & crud gumming up the sliding mechanism. I also know a lot of the rods, pivots etc are worn and need some adjusting & or replacing as well. The tractor just seems to move a bit slower as you go along & it gets hotter, but no change in sound or feel of engine. I am guessing it is the belt if not the transmission oil leaks & whatever oil he had put in there before selling it to me. I need to find parts sources with decent pricing and fast availability & delivery times now that I found some good manuals from the replies here. Any places you prefer to use for parts? By the way, Bethel CT here.

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by JP56

[Ed Kennell 38,112]

If the engine RPM is not changing, and the tractor speed is decreasing,  something in the drive train has to be slipping.

Several possibilities are:

1. the tractor drive belt is slipping due to wear or a weak idler spring or bad idler pulley bearing

2. one of the axle keys is sheared allowing the hub to spin on the axle

3. the transmission input shaft key has sheared allowing the drive pulley to spin on the shaft

 

[JP56 38]

8 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

If the engine RPM is not changing, and the tractor speed is decreasing,  something in the drive train has to be slipping.

Several possibilities are:

1. the tractor drive belt is slipping due to wear or a weak idler spring or bad idler pulley bearing

2. one of the axle keys is sheared allowing the hub to spin on the axle

3. the transmission input shaft key has sheared allowing the drive pulley to spin on the shaft

 

Thanks Ed

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,314]

2 hours ago, JP56 said:

When you say drive belt, are you referring to the one under the cover on the side? Any places you prefer to use for parts?

 

Yes, that's the belt I'm referring to. With the demise of the few local Wheel Horse /TORO dealers near me I have resorted to ordering from on-line suppliers. Partstree...RCPW...Jacks Small Engine Warehouse....