Indianajohn 53 #1 Posted April 14, 2018 Just took the blade off my tractor today and put the mowing deck back on. Simple right? I thought so too until I realized that the blades were running all the time. Didn’t have this problem last year, and haven’t changed anything over the winter. At least not on the tractor, tho I did replace the belt and idler on the deck. The lever is in the disengaged position, and when the engine is off I can see a gap between the friction plate and the pulley assembly, and I can turn the pulley assembly by hand. Can’t see any reason why the deck is still running. Any ideas? Could something be dragging inside the clutch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,731 #2 Posted April 14, 2018 Are the blades driving forcefully or just turning? Your PTO has a brake pad (upper left) that stops the PTO from turning when not engaged, that may be worn out or need an adjustment. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indianajohn 53 #3 Posted April 15, 2018 The blades spin just as fast whether the clutch is engaged or not. That’s why I thought at first that clutch disc was stuck. I adjusted the brake pad last year. Starting to think I am going to have to go into the clutch to figure this out. Is there a manual or write-up on rebuilding one of these clutches? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,731 #4 Posted April 15, 2018 This manual is a bit older than your 520, but it is the same basic unit and has an exploded view. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,374 #5 Posted April 15, 2018 Did you move the trunion adjustment anytime during change over? Do you still have the pin in the hoop to the PTO shaft? The PTO bell rides on roller bearings on that shaft and the tension is put on the clutch disc from mechanical leverage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,306 #6 Posted April 15, 2018 I fixed an old Cub Cadet that would not disengage the PTO. It was a seized bearing. I have never seen a Wheel Horse with a seized roller bearing but it could. With the brake loosened off, PTO disengaged, and mower belt removed, you should be able to spin the PTO pulley easily. If not, then disengage the hoop and swing to the side and with the brake removed, you can slide the pulley off and check the bearing. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indianajohn 53 #7 Posted April 16, 2018 The only thing I did was remove the pin thru the u-shaped piece and swing the hoop out of the way to r&r the belt. I’m familiar with how this style clutch is supposed to work, as my old Case 446 has a similar system. Just uses a different style of actuating mechanism, and sealed ball bearings in the pulley. I did notice there is an lot of slop in the pin piece that the u-shaped piece pins to, but it was that way last year too. Haven’t had a chance to look at that manual yet (thanks, BTW), but I’m guessing there is a bearing there held in by that snap ring. I guess its my own fault for getting spring fever a couple of days ago when we actually had spring-like temps. Today, 32 and snow. Sure wish Mother Nature would quit screwing around with the jet stream! Shouldn’t be having to worry about heat in the middle of April..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indianajohn 53 #8 Posted April 17, 2018 As Paul Harvey used to say, and now for the rest of the story..... I got time this evening to tear into this thing. I removed the brake and tried to turn the pulley by hand. It would only move about a 1/4” back and forth. I kept working and tappy-tapping with a dead blow hammer and finally got it to rotate all the way around. I was then able to pull the pulley off. There was moisture inside where the bearing is, but I couldnt tell if it got past the seal inside or the stub shaft on the outside. There is a LOT of weeble-wobble in that shaft. I popped the bearing and shaft out and the bearing itself isn’t too bad, but the shaft is really worn out for some reason. So, I guess I am looking at a total rebuild of the pulley. The outer bearing is a Fafnir and I can read a number on it, so shouldn’t be a problem getting a replacement, but not sure what I’m looking at for the inner bearing, seal, and the shaft. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,374 #9 Posted April 17, 2018 You can probably get a good used complete unit from @A-Z Tractor or eBay as it may be cheaper than procuring new parts just a thought, Jeff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indianajohn 53 #10 Posted April 18, 2018 So I thought I would post this info for anyone in the future who may need it. The outer Fafnir bearing # is P204RR6 which is the same under Timken and probably others. The seal is a CR 14810 (same under SKF). The inner bearing is a Torrington J 2420, which is also Torrington B 2420, Koyo B 2420, NTN DCL 2420, IKO BA 2420, INA SCE 2420. Hope this may help someone else down the road, maybe give some options for folks who need parts in a hurry or just don’t have a dealer close (like me). Or maybe just working on a budget..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indianajohn 53 #11 Posted April 25, 2018 Okay, I was able to pick up a Torrington B2420 on fleabay for $10, and the outer bearing from my local parts distributor for about $4. It is actually a mower spindle bearing. I ordered the seal from the local NAPA for $7. Now I just need to get that shaft which will be the most expensive part. I’m just not sure how far to press in that inner bearing. There is a slight step way down in there, but I’m not sure if it needs to go in that far or not. I have not been able to find mention of that anywhere. Does anybody know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
