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By 953 nut
I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings.
Hope this is helpful.
Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.
Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.
Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.
We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.
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By BrianKoch
Gentlemen,
I am in need of help. While doing yard work with my K301 powered ‘68 Charger 12 it suddenly came to a stop and won’t start again.
My troubleshooting so far:
Fuel:
• stabil/87 and clean
• good flow before and after pump
• carb clean, recently rebuilt, float level correctly set
Compression:
•good? - blows finger off spark plug hole
•good turnover but doesn’t fire off
•piston and cylinders move freely
•valve lash set .008 intake .018 exhaust
•breather assembly correct and recently serviced with new gaskets and filter
•head gasket not broken, head bolts tight, some carbon on head
Spark:
•no spark
•all electrical/ignition components were replaced 1 year ago except voltage regulator
•no loose connections, no grounding connections
•inspected and applied graphite to starter shaft
•changed plug
•12v to coil good
•cleaned points, points wire has continuity
•condenser ground good
•swapped battery, points and wire, plug and wire, coil, and condenser from running K301 (‘69 Charger 12)
•points push rod does push out when turning engine over by hand, but unable to get points timed using multimeter method and timing mark on flywheel
What else should I check/do?
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By PWL216
Hi. I have a C121 which starts right up but lacks power. A compression check indicated 30lbs of pressure. I took the head off hoping maybe it’s just a gasket, but I think the cylinder needs to be honed or bored out. Based on the attached pics, is this block still good and would honing fix it?
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By Gingerbread
I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks
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