867 drive belt not stalling

[fortyeightjake 7]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here, glad to see there's still help for these old tractors.

 

I bought my first house last year and my mower of choice is this 867 (I believe that's what it is) that my grandfather got running and gave to my dad when my parents bought their first home.

 

It's probably mowed more grass this past summer than it did in it's entire time in our possession so I'm tuning it up to start this year off. Air filter, spark plug, oil change, and a new drive belt since it started slipping and squeezing pretty bad last year. The belt is where this question is going.

 

I've done a bit of searching through the forum today and everything seems to be fine on the tractor but I just wanted to verify. The issue is that even with the clutch pedal pressed, the belt keeps wanting to spin and not let the trans shift.  Both tabs are present on the belt guard, the pulleys are clean and shiny in the valley, and I have the brake adjustment nut as loose as it'll go and still have a little bit of brakes. I loosened that up even farther but it still didn't keep the belt from spinning. 

 

Is there anything else I'm missing?  The only other thing I can think of is to bend the little belt guard tab a little closer to the belt?  This is the first time a belt has been put on it in 20 years so maybe this one just needs to wear in a little bit.

[rjg854 11,494]

Is the guard actually on when this is happening? 

[rjg854 11,494]

The belt guard needs to be in place so the belt can go  slack properly so it won't spin the drive pulley. 

[fortyeightjake 7]

Yes, I took the guard off to take a picture but with the guard on and the pedal pressed, the belt is still rotating and jumping around. If I shift fast, it'll go in gear easy but if I try to shift normal, it grinds.

[pfrederi 17,887]

Wrong belt   6870 is what you want

  WH #1576 changed to 9691 ...1/2 x 70"

[fortyeightjake 7]

The new belt is the same length as the one that came off of it.  I can't get a shorter one on it without it holding the idler pulley down.

[pfrederi 17,887]

Are we sure this is an 867???  The PTO is not correct for that vintage.  Parts manual for 867 is in pictures.  Is there a model number on the data plate maybe ???  I agree a 6" shorter belt would probably not fit.

 

 

 

[rjg854 11,494]

Do I see a second shift knob there?   And the mowing deck does not look right for an 867.  I'm no expert tho.  Someone will be along that will have the answers you're looking for.

[953 nut 55,847]

I think we are looking at a 1067 or 1267, long frame which would be consistent with the longer belt. There is a metal tag on the riser that supports the dash, check the Model Number.

When you put the belt guard on is the lower portion of the belt up inside the belt guard, it should be. The function of the lower rail is to catch the slack portion of the belt and act as a brake to stop it.

[rmaynard 15,610]

The way I read your post, it sounds like you are trying to shift gears on the fly. 

If I shift fast, it'll go in gear easy but if I try to shift normal, it grinds.

With these transmissions you must be stopped to change gears.

[moe1965 744]

20 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

The way I read your post, it sounds like you are trying to shift gears on the fly. 

If I shift fast, it'll go in gear easy but if I try to shift normal, it grinds.

With these transmissions you must be stopped to change gears.

I will second that.  I learned the hard way. I slammed the gearshift and broke a gear in the trans.  Only good thing that came out off of is i know how to rebuild them now.  

[fortyeightjake 7]

I'll try to answer all the questions, thanks for the help everyone.

 

1. No, I don't really know if its a 867, that's just what I've been told.

2. Yes, two shift knobs.  It has 3 forward gears with reverse, and a high/low shifter.

3. The engine tag and tag under the dash are both missing so I'm SOL on that one.

4. Yes, the belt sits along the lower side of the guard.

5. What I mean by shifting fast is quickly moving the lever from neutral into gear while the tractor is stopped.

[rmaynard 15,610]

 

None of my 1967 belt covers (pictured below) have a tab on the top (as pictured above)

 

 

However, none of my '67's have a PTO that looks like yours.

Edited April 10, 2018 by rmaynard

[pfrederi 17,887]

We may have a bit of a Frankenhorse here. The 76" belt would be correct for a long frame.  You might try a 77" belt and see how that works...  Any #s on the engine to help ID this???

 

The tabs on your guard look like the parts diagram...are the close to the belt??

Edited April 10, 2018 by pfrederi

[wallfish 17,083]

Try moving the belt brake on the idler pulley. It should be adjusted forward with the clutch pedal out and tension on the belt like it is in the pic. Rotate it so the front edge of the brake is just barely missing the belt and does not touch it.  Then lock the bolt down. This will allow the belt to move freely when driving the tractor but when the pedal is pushed, the idler moves forward and that brake will engage into the belt to help stop it from moving.

 

[fortyeightjake 7]

Well I'll be damned. Sorry everyone but the tractor certainly is a 1067. I've been riding the thing for 20 years and never saw the tag, partially because it's spray painted. The engine tag is missing though.

 

So now that I look dumb, I'll try what Wallfish said above.

 

Does the PTO seem correct for a 1067?

[rjg854 11,494]

You're not dumb, we've all been in the same boat at one time or another. That's why we're all here to lend our knowledge to each other to save a few headaches and gain information. This be THE place to get the answers we seek.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

Click on the picture

Garry

[953 nut 55,847]

2 hours ago, fortyeightjake said:

Does the PTO seem correct for a 1067?

              Yes, that was the dead give away that it was a 1067 or 1267. The 867 was the old foot actuated PTO.

[fortyeightjake 7]

Well the little tab on the idler pulley is welded where it is. Was it originally meant to be adjustable?

[wallfish 17,083]

6 hours ago, fortyeightjake said:

Well the little tab on the idler pulley is welded where it is. Was it originally meant to be adjustable?

Yes, whoever welded it on did it in the wrong place. No reason to weld it as the bolt is supposed to hold it tight.

Got a grinder?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

The 1067 should have a 2-1/2" OD engine pulley and a 4" OD transmission pulley for a 1/2" wide belt 76" long. Later on they used 5/8" wide belts so different pulleys. Different diameter and pulley width affects the belt length.

 

Garry

[fortyeightjake 7]

15 hours ago, wallfish said:

Yes, whoever welded it on did it in the wrong place. No reason to weld it as the bolt is supposed to hold it tight.

Got a grinder?

Yep! Sounds like I should be running this weekend.

 

Thanks for your help everyone, much appreciated!

[rmaynard 15,610]

On 4/11/2018 at 4:10 PM, wallfish said:

Yes, whoever welded it on did it in the wrong place. No reason to weld it as the bolt is supposed to hold it tight.

Got a grinder?

 

Both my 857 and Commando 8 have factory welded guides. Both B-100's are adjustable. 

[wallfish 17,083]

30 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

Both my 857 and Commando 8 have factory welded guides. Both B-100's are adjustable

Are they welded in the same spot his is?

Edited April 13, 2018 by wallfish