1984, C195, 01-19KE02 PTO Clutch

[Tim T 4]

1984 C-195 Wheel Horse, 01-19KE02

 PTO Clutch disc plate. I'm at the end of my adjustment and the clutch is beginning to slip again.  I haven't disassemble the PTO yet but reading from other threads it sounds like the clutch is conical hub shaped and Wheel Horse did not make many (if any) replacement parts for it.

 

Is there anything new to add on this dilemma? Is the only solution to have the clutch hub relined by a shop that specializes in that?

 

Thanks to those who already replied to an old 2008 thread.

 

Thanks

[Skipper 1,788]

I have read there should be linings available from a JD. Don't remember where I read it, or from what JD. 

 

If you find out, I'm in for some sets. 

[Skipper 1,788]

If anyone should have a new clutch, I would really appreciate a measurement of thickness of the friction plates. Thanks

[bmsgaffer 2,045]

As mentioned in the old thread, you can switch to the flat dick type clutch. If you look at parts for a newer 520 style, the size of the clutch was increased to handle the load from the 60" deck on the 520H and 520HC and should easily handle the loads for the C-195. 

[Tim T 4]

Finally got around to inspecting clutch material thickness and is 3/32 inch. I think that is ok. But the internal surface of my pulley housing (P/N  109759) is worn and reason my clutch is slipping. Where do people shop for Wheel Horse parts? Amazon has it for $348 and Jack's Small Engine has it for $272.  The latter is the best I have seen.

[Macgyver 90]

I know this has been a while sense any one has posted about this but I have a good original C195 clutch I would sell for a couple hundred if anyone is interested. It came off an 84. I just changed the engine out to an Onan.

[Wayne0 471]

On 5/3/2018 at 11:13 PM, Tim T said:

Finally got around to inspecting clutch material thickness and is 3/32 inch. I think that is ok. But the internal surface of my pulley housing (P/N  109759) is worn and reason my clutch is slipping. Where do people shop for Wheel Horse parts? Amazon has it for $348 and Jack's Small Engine has it for $272.  The latter is the best I have seen.

Have you adjusted your linkage to tighten up the clutch engagement ? The clutch material is fine. Don't throw money at it if you don't need to.

Edited February 19 by Wayne0

[Rowan 1]

Hello!  I am really pleased to find that this subject is still alive.  I have a 1982/3 B11 and love it.  Ive tried to retire it but every time I revive the old thing with delight..  However.. the clutch is two part, conical, under the engine and failing to engage or slipping.  I have heard that the spring adjustment is critical but now cannot find the video to show how to make the adjustment.  Does anyone know of it?

Has anyone reconditioned the whole unit?  In the seemingly unlikely event there are any new ones out there has a anyone any suggestions where?  It's not relevant that this request comes from the uk, I am determined to get this machine out again this spring.  Any help will be gratefully received!

[Rowan 1]

Well after much searching I have found this thread again.  As can be seen, I am still keen to get the mower cutting again.  I am still searching for the clutch adjustment instructions.  I thought I would try that first before disassembling it and then seeing what I have.  Renew the bearings and I read below, relining with??

If any one knows where there is a proper workshop manual, I would be very pleased indeed to receive the info.  I have given up on all uk maintainer as the answer is repeatedly "no spares available" and "uneconomical to repair" - if vintage cars are on the road, it cannot be beyond me to keep this true workhorse going!  

 

 

[peter lena 8,661]

@Rowan  ever adjust the TRUNNION , on the pto lever end , to  PTO cone area ? get some penetrating lube on the related threads , , so you can screw that  slightly forward to increase the connection / bite of the  clutch disc . very simple unit , another regular related reason for clutch wear , is ROTATIONAL  MOVEMENT DRAG , how easily does the mule drive belt , MOVE BY HAND ? can you rotate the deck drive ? there are 12 related bearings to that set up , 6 in deck , 4 in mule drive 2 in the pto cone  ,  1 outside , the inner is a fine needle bearing . best look at this entire set up  , in schematic  drawing , main culprit   is lubrication failure . that can all be corrected  at disassembly time , like a 550 deg drop temp lube , re /grease in all bearings , smooth / quiet  easy function , realise this might be more than you want to hear , but the conversion , eliminates your problem, pete

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,074]

What model tractor is this?

1982 B-115 5-Speed model 02-11BP05

1982 B-115 Automatic model 02-11BE01

1983 B-115 5-Speed model 12-11BP01

1983 B-115 Automatic model 12-11BE01

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,074]

For an older B-Series but may be the same.

Pto is in section 9 and page 9-1

 

[Rowan 1]

Thank you all three of you.  Wonderful help and advice.  This week will see me taking it all apart. And yes more than I was hoping to hear but feared I would!  Will be back to let all know how I got on.  Who says ladies are afraid of machines.  Thanks again!

[Rowan 1]

Just downloaded the manual- brilliant!  Thank you.

[peter lena 8,661]

@Rowan  another thing I regularly do is to slowly easily engage , my PTO LEVER , because everything related , moves easily , there is never any squealing , clutch , belt issues .  thats the verification of bearing / related drag . have not replaced a  clutch face in years , also cut at highest setting , for  hopefully increased discharge , this is another thing I do for my decks , there is no , rot or trapped grass build up , the grass just does not build up , make sense ? its the FUNCTIONAL DETAILING , that makes this set up , work / live , pete