Tie Rod Upgrade / Trans Pulley Problem

[Crazy_Carl 254]

Anybody on here ever upgrade their old worn out non-adjustable tie rods like this?  These are for my '79 C-81.

 

The beefy 5/8" diameter tie rods were worn out so I cut off the old ends, and squared up a piece that was 5" long. Then I welded some 1 1/4" 3/8-24 grade eight bolts to the ends of that so I could use these nice rod ends.  It was a pretty easy small project.

On another note if you looked closely in my C-125 First Start Video you would have noticed that the trans pulley my C-81 was sitting on the right floor board.  That's because I'm trans pulley swapping it.  The problem with my C-81 is that the trans input shaft if 5/8" diameter with and odd size 5/32" woodruff key slot.  I have a 5/8" hub with a 3/16" keyway.  I'm going to try to file a 3/16 woodruff key into an adapter key or find a machine shop locally that can broach a 5/32 keyway into the hub I have.  I'm looking for other ideas though.

 

 

 

[Achto 27,912]

Very nice work on those tie rods!!

[WHX?? 49,486]

Lets not let Lowell find out about this ... he may be hitting the soup line when guys see how easy they are to make!

[Ed Kennell 39,176]

Nice, are they from McMasters Carr ?

[Ed Kennell 39,176]

Step keys are easy peasy.     

    Paint the sides of the 3/16 key with bluing of black magic marker. 

   Clamp it tightly in the 3/16 slot with both ends at the same elevation and scribe along the side.

  Clamp the key in a vise aligned to the scribe line.

  File one side only until 1/64 is removed keeping the filed side parallel to the unfiled side using a Micrometer.

  File the other side to get the 5/32" thickness using the Mic to keep the sides parallel.

[953 nut 56,164]

I have made a few tie rods by using 1/2" OD X 0.37" ID mechanical tubing with ends drilled out to 25/64" and tapped to 7/16-20 (NF) with rod ends from McMaser-Carr. 

[Crazy_Carl 254]

43 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I have made a few tie rods by using 1/2" OD X 0.37" ID mechanical tubing with ends drilled out to 25/64" and tapped to 7/16-20 (NF) with rod ends from McMaser-Carr. 

 What’s mechanical tubing? Is that like DOM tubing?   That’s a good idea too though.   I got the inspiration to make these from the  newer style tire rods from Toro that are on my C-125 that have one replaceable end, but I wanted one where you could replace both ends if they wore out.   I was going to buy them from McMaster Carr or find some cheapies on eBay but one day I was walking through my local hardware store and they had just added these to their stock for about  $10 a piece and I couldn’t resist and while I was there I could conveniently pick up 3/8 fine thread nuts and bolts.

 

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Step keys are easy peasy.     

    Paint the sides of the 3/16 key with bluing of black magic marker. 

   Clamp it tightly in the 3/16 slot with both ends at the same elevation and scribe along the side.

  Clamp the key in a vise aligned to the scribe line.

  File one side only until 1/64 is removed keeping the filed side parallel to the unfiled side using a Micrometer.

  File the other side to get the 5/32" thickness using the Mic to keep the sides parallel.

 

 That is really sound advice that I am definitely going to use. Thank You!

[wallfish 17,112]

NICE,

 

Yes, believe he's referring to DOM tube but...

Used threaded rod cut to the complete length, covered it with cheap small pipe and added a couple extra nuts with washers on each end to lock the pipe in place. That's what I already had so used that. No welding, crimping, filing or special tools needed, just a hacksaw. 

[953 nut 56,164]

Mechanical tubing is seamless and DOM is not. Either one would have worked but the friend who gave me the tube had some pieces they had left from a job. Price was right!

[wallfish 17,112]

44 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Mechanical tubing is seamless and DOM is not

Always thought DOM was seamless but a quick search reveals the seam weld is removed, making it smooth tube. They even stated DOM is incorrectly referenced as "seamless tube". Mechanical tube sounds expensive the way it's made but will look into it for certain things instead of DOM

[ebinmaine 68,874]

8 hours ago, wallfish said:

NICE,

 

Yes, believe he's referring to DOM tube but...

Used threaded rod cut to the complete length, covered it with cheap small pipe and added a couple extra nuts with washers on each end to lock the pipe in place. That's what I already had so used that. No welding, crimping, filing or special tools needed, just a hacksaw. 

I saved that in my notes.

Thanks John!

[Ed Kennell 39,176]

I used Johns threaded rod method on the Low Rider.   I have polished aluminum tubing that I planned to slide over the rod, but never got it put on because the clearance got tight where the tie rods pass thru the sides of the hood.

[ebinmaine 68,874]

@Ed Kennell thanks for the pics. A visual is always handy with a verbal. 

[cleat 6,715]

Great looking work.

 

I made mine using threaded rod as well but yours would be much stronger and looks more like a factory job.

 

 

[Sarge 3,464]

Mechanical tubing generally runs over double the cost of DOM variants. One way to save some money is to ream the tubing prior to threading it - DOM is rarely very close to round on the inside.

 

This prevents the tap from walking off center but you'll still have to fight it a bit due to the welded seam. Using a 3-flute tap instead of the usual 4-flute helps a lot too.

 

Sarge