Shaft instead of a cable for clevis hitch

[cpete1 332]

Anybody ever attempt to put a shaft from the lift lever back to the jack shaft versus a cable ? I took the tin off my 310 to see if there is a chance this could be done. There are a few clearance issues,(shift lever, boot, offset of lift lever arm) but it looks like it might just be do-able. Was thinking this spring of building a back blade with teeth and then I could induce some down pressure with the shaft versus the cable. The tractor is a manual tranny.

[953 nut 55,076]

1 hour ago, cpete1 said:

There are a few clearance issues,(shift lever, boot, offset of lift lever arm)

You would need to use a flexible shaft and that is known as a cable.            

1 hour ago, cpete1 said:

Was thinking this spring of building a back blade with teeth and then I could induce some down pressure

If you build or buy a mid mount grader blade with a solid lift link you could get some down pressure.    

[Ed Kennell 38,022]

3 hours ago, cpete1 said:

Anybody ever attempt to put a shaft from the lift lever back to the jack shaft versus a cable ?

 

Never tried it, but if you can wiggle a rod in there, go for it.         With several bends in the rod, it may have to be quite strong to keep from bending.       I would make a model using soft wire, then bend one from a 1/2" rod using the wire as a template.

Just remember the lift lever and jack shaft both need clearance to move vertically as they move front to back.

You can always use Mr. Gravity to supply the down force if the rod doesn't pan out.

Edited March 15, 2018 by Ed Kennell

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

They way the rock shaft works for the rear clevis hitch with a cable it's all gravity down power up, so changing to a solid rod/link would make no difference, if you want down pressure on the clevis hitch you'll need to either try fabbing on an electric actuator solidly mounted where the under seat pan rock shaft would go or just add old fashioned weight of your choice, just my , here's a couple of my rear attachments for your viewing pleasure ,last 2 is a box blade see the added weight and ripper teeth, Jeff.

[oliver2-44 9,686]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

If you build or buy a mid mount grader blade with a solid lift link you could get some down pressure.

I've been amazed at how well a mid-mount grade blade can cut and move dirt.

 

30 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

just add old fashioned weight of your choice

I've also used a rear cultivator to break up soil, then move it with a front dozer blade, and I believe a rear box blade would work even better.  in many types of soil, the right "soil moisture" can make all the difference . 

[cpete1 332]

Jeff, I thought about your reply, I would need 2 shafts , one going to the jack shaft and then one from the jack shaft to the clevis hitch.  And Ed, Your point about the extra movement is spot on. Going to take some tin off the tractor again to take a closer look. I'm also considering building a mid blade but was kind a looking for the extra lift clearance the back blade would provide. Not giving up on it yet. (And thanks for the pictures, helps the thinking process)

Chris

[squonk 41,024]

You can do it on an older tractors. Bud Andrews had a post on FB where he used a solid rod.

[Sarge 3,463]

By far weight is the easiest to add - my rear blade is a cheap, older Craftsman and it's been modified with a piece of grader steel that was replaced. It's 6" tall and around 1" thick, adds an easy 50lbs to the blade and made it cut far more efficiently than original. On top of that , I've set up all the rear attachments so I can add iron or concrete weight - it goes a long way and the rear lift has no issue picking up 150-200lbs+ as long as the cable or other parts are in good shape. Might want to watch the tin parts on the later models - they can't take the stress from heavy implements as well as the older models.

 

Sarge

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

Other than cheaper/thinner sheet metal and more safety switches/electronics, the 3,4,500 series are basically the same tractor as the B,C series, eliminate the electric part still as "simple" to work on and as long as you don't over think it the the electric part isn't that bad either, buy I'm a bit biased towards the 3,4,500 as I've owned a 520H since buying it new 20 years ago this month.