Stainless Wheel Lug Bolts?

[RedRider 120]

I am trying to find some stainless steel lug bolts for the rear wheels of my Charger 10. According to the parts list the bolts are 7/16-20 thread. I am trying to find bolts that look as close to original as possible, but won't rust like the originals. I thought I remembered someone selling these at the big show last year, but of course I didn't buy any then. I've done some searching on the internet, but so far haven't found anything the right size. I was wondering if anyone has a source for these or has any part numbers I could use to expand my search. Thanks! 

[pfrederi 18,333]

I think what you remember was rmaynard selling conversions to studs and lug nuts.  Now shows as out of stock.  You can do it yourself with some fine thread bolts and lug nuts form ebay.  I made up some for my Lawn Ranger (3/8" NF)

 

 

[squonk 42,534]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-cap-screws/=1bn1j74

[RedRider 120]

Thanks for the replies so far. I have seen the conversion kits, but what I was remembering was someone who had sets of stainless lug bolts with the Wheel Horse logo engraved on them (and some without the logo) for a price of around $50 a set. I am looking for the actual lug bolts with the beveled shoulder like in the picture below, the only thing I could find on the McMaster site were the regular style bolts. 

 

[Dennys502 245]

I would not use stainless bolts as they break very easily. They have almost the same strength as grade 2 bolts.

[Tankman 3,520]

Never used stainless lug bolts. I do use lots of stainless hardware, including bolts, nuts, washers, lock washers.

Use Never-Seez on all hardware. All at Lowes, excellent hardware section, stainless steel.

Always change lug bolts to lug nuts. All my happy working Horses have lug nuts, for years.

 

Threadlocker Blue only on the threads that'll live in the hub, 7/16-20 x 1 1/2" long.

Open ended acorn lug nuts on the shelf at most auto stores. Some might query the acorn angle, always used off the shelf lug nuts.

Never looked or asked. Always worked great.

 

[littleredrider 409]

All the weight isn’t on the bolt or stud, it’s the lip on the hub. All the bolt is doing is keeping the wheel on the hub. Besides, it’s not like these things weight that much. 

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

First time the threads on a stainless fastener gall,you'll be sorry you ever used them.Then you'd be looking for a hub due to the threads being gone.Never seize is your friend.

[ebinmaine 70,740]

24 minutes ago, littleredrider said:

All the weight isn’t on the bolt or stud, it’s the lip on the hub. All the bolt is doing is keeping the wheel on the hub. Besides, it’s not like these things weight that much. 

If your referencing an original equipment tractor with original equipment Wheels, that's very true.

 

It is important to keep in mind that some of us pull or push or move some very very heavy stuff.

Stock weight on my b80 was about 550 to 575 pounds, depending who you ask.

I've since added liquid weight at all four corners and much larger tires and different wheels, front and back.

The tractor itself probably weighs about 250 to 275 pounds more than stock. Then there's me. Not exactly the smallest fellow in the world. With clothing and boots on I top out about 265.

 

Then, put into consideration that I have moved loads of logs very well in excess of a thousand pounds.

 

I mean no harm or have no intention of arguing, but for the sake of safety, each individual tractor and its workload must be considered.

[dclarke 4,058]

3 hours ago, RedRider said:

Thanks for the replies so far. I have seen the conversion kits, but what I was remembering was someone who had sets of stainless lug bolts with the Wheel Horse logo engraved on them (and some without the logo) for a price of around $50 a set. I am looking for the actual lug bolts with the beveled shoulder like in the picture below, the only thing I could find on the McMaster site were the regular style bolts. 

 

Member "chevelletown" used to make and sell those engraved stainless lug bolts. I'm not sure if he still does or not.

[Sarge 3,464]

You're far better off using Gr8 bolts and either the open or closed end acorn nuts. If you want something that won't rust - look into Gorilla or other brands that have high nickel content finishes - they are lifetime warranted against rust and corrosion. Not cheap, but you only need 10 per tractor unless you're running a front trailer hub conversion. There are deeper variations to closed head acorn lugs, not sure about the 7/16-20 thread being available but I'm sure someone has it .

 

When you try to torque down stainless fasteners they love to gall the threads if pushed very hard - one or two installs would be all you'd get out them before the threads rolled over and get stuck . Even 18-8 or higher quality stainless isn't very tough nor all that hard. Putting them into a cast hub is even worse - if you do try this use the anti-seize meant specifically for stainless fasteners or you'll probably regret it . The weight of the unit is held to the hub lip by the force generated across the bolt pattern - if they can't be torqued down properly to seat they will not hold the torque through the drive line nor the weight. Once they work loose it can eat the rim and destroy the hub, no different than any other vehicle.

 

Sarge

[R. L. Addison 299]

Stainless is not good bolt stock. The only stainless I would consider for any use, especially lug bolts might be 316, but a good grade 8 is much better.

Edited February 23, 2018 by R. L. Addison

[buckrancher 2,694]

contact chevelletown  he sell stainless lug bolt sets with the wheel horse logo engraved

 

stainless lug bolts will work just fine as long as you don't use them on a pulling tractor

 

brian

[Zeek 2,286]

That's weird, I was just typing to tell you reach out to @buckrancher when replied  Sounds like you got your answer.