1532 cap needle bearing

[eddiebunyan 24]

My auto-18 transaxle needed to be rebuilt and I bought a 1532 needle bearing off of e-bay because it was the only needle bearing that was bad in the half case.The one I pressed out was crushed on the inside of the bearing causing the needles to not turn.When I pressed in the new supposidly 1532 bearing i noticed that if I kept it flush to the outside(Pump side) it was about a 1/8 too far to the inside case??Odd!I put everything back together and found that I had a fluid leak!As I ran it I would tighten the four bolts that held the pump to the housing,but the leak got worse.I took it apart and found that the needle bearing had forced it's way motor side and thus i couldn't keep the pump from leaking.I suppose the guy just had a number that he thought was good!!But now The guy can't be reached????Just food for thought if your going this route!Does anybody know where I can get an authentic 1532 cap needle bearing??

[pfrederi 17,887]

Need to clear a couple things up.  You say pump to the housing...did you mean hydro motor??  You have a separated system.  The motor attaches to the transaxle.  Which bearing is messed up in the picture here?  (I hope it isn't 4-18)

Is it on the hydro motor end of 4-32 the "gear Shaft"

  EDIT:  The broken bearing was it open or closed on one end?????

 

Edited February 16, 2018 by pfrederi

["D"- Man 827]

There are a total of (3) 1532 needle bearings in the transaxle, these would be the ones in your diagram Item # 4-13 two on the oil filter side and 1 on the motor side.  This is the bearing # that was on the transaxles that I have.

#1532 is the middle bearing on this side.

Edited February 16, 2018 by "D"- Man

[pfrederi 17,887]

If it is the bearing to the left (towards the front of the Transaxle it is a 8049 bearing.  That is a problem, the 1532 bearings are 3/4" thick...the 8049 only 5/8" thick  (hence maybe the 1/8" mentioned in the original post.  Stevasaurus found a 5/8 inch bearing but it was open.. i have never found a closed end  bearing that thick. Took one to Motion industries they couldn't find a replacement....

 

If the gasket was perfect and maybe used some sealant do you think an open ended bearing could work??? The thought of sealant on a hydro worries me but if there is no other choice?????

[Sarge 3,463]

I think at one time there was a long post on this - not sure who wrote it but sounded like there was no replacement for the original...?

 

Sarge

[groundhog47 347]

Eddie, I have inquired to a supplier who claims in stock M-16101 Koyo bearing, is in China and online see the Torrington M-16101 for sale in Euros ?? pice that is 29 to 33 Euros. Hope to hear a good price on the Koyo. Know you want the 1532, other than M-16121, but it seems none avail WH or Torrington. Will post ya a message on reply if get one. The Koyo dimensions fit what Paul posted on the 8049 front motor side closed bearing.

Last resort option: machine shop grind 1/8" off 4-32 shaft on motor side and minimal radius edges of shaft, unless gear face rides on bearing edge.

Edited February 17, 2018 by groundhog47
clarification and last resort option

[stevasaurus 22,872]

It does seem like we went through this before.  The #1532 bearing and the M-16121 bearing are one and the same...ie...a cap bearing that is 16/16" or 1" ID and 12/16" or 3/4" wide.  I think we were looking for a bearing that is 1" ID and 5/8" wide.  If there is such a thing, Gerry is right...it would be M-16101.  didn't we wonder if we could go with a bearing that is 1/2" wide??  That would be M-16081.  Torrington and KOYO numbers are the same. 

 

   Eddie, measure that 1532 bearing you bought...it should be 3/4" wide.

 

Here is that other thread::

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/72296-bearing-suggestions-needed/?tab=comments#comment-687558

[groundhog47 347]

22 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

It does seem like we went through this before.  The #1532 bearing and the M-16121 bearing are one and the same...ie...a cap bearing that is 16/16" or 1" ID and 12/16" or 3/4" wide.  I think we were looking for a bearing that is 1" ID and 5/8" wide.  If there is such a thing, Gerry is right...it would be M-16101.  didn't we wonder if we could go with a bearing that is 1/2" wide??  That would be M-16081.  Torrington and KOYO numbers are the same. 

 

   Eddie, measure that 1532 bearing you bought...it should be 3/4" wide.

 

Here is that other thread::

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/72296-bearing-suggestions-needed/?tab=comments#comment-687558

Yes, Steve on that post is does discuss the 1/2" height/length bearing. Funny thing, I pulled bearings outa a reject case from Pacer Bil, he checked and it was 3/4 on both the motor/gasket side which was all that was what he rejected. In brushing off the number came up Torr. M-16121 so something changed on the D-160 tranny case, which is why fig'd they ground down shaft length.. Irrelevant but interesting: It also had the needle inner axel bearing with bushing, during the 1533 transition I presume.  I must return Red Faced, the front bearing is the 8049, I mixed them up when sorting. It is Torrington m-16101

Edited February 18, 2018 by groundhog47
Correst erroe about 2 x 1532in case

[eddiebunyan 24]

Sorry for the confusion,The cap bearingis4-13(1532) That holds the end(pump side) of 4-29 The upper right one in the picture above, showing the pump mounting face.I bought a half case off of e-bay and that bearing that I pressed out was crushed on the inside .I thought maybe the person had tried to press it out from the inside and just crushed the face of it but now I'm thinking perhaps he ran into the same problem on a previous rebuild.When he bolted everything together tight,perhaps it crushed the inside of the bearing which would cause the bearing to fail?I thought about machining the excess off but didn't want to go that route.I still have my old case and since the piece blew off in one piece,I had it welded back on for a "spare". the 1532 bearing's in that half still functioned,so I thought if I could't get one I would use one of those even though they were"used"and I know I'm making some of your shiver because "you would never use ,used parts!!"Thanks for all the responce! Does anyone know why they used a allen head bolt on the rear left of the manifold,as shown in fig.31(page 29) of the auto repair manual??I'm assuming for clearance?

["D"- Man 827]

"Does anyone know why they used allen head bolt on the rear left of the manifold, as shown in fig. 31(page 29) of the auto repair manual?? I'm assuming for clearance?"

 

I think you are right about choosing to use the Allen head bolts for clearance, using a wrench on a hex head bolt could prove to be quite a challenge.  Here are a couple pics I took of my manifold at the rear mounting pad.

 

[Sarge 3,463]

The allen head is for clearance - even with a thin-walled socket it wouldn't work with a regular hex headed bolt. There are aeromotive headed bolts that would fit and have a reduced diameter/hex size (think - header bolts) and those are available in higher bolt grades (GR8/9).

 

@"D"- Man - you built your own manifold/lines ??

 

I knew we had been through that odd bearing deal before, but of course I don't have the memory to recall which thread when I need it...

 

I do wonder - has anyone ever checked with LJ Fluid Power for the 5/8" depth Torrington cup bearing ? Due to some of the odd hydro parts they have in stock - it would not surprise me if they had something in their inventory.

 

Sarge

["D"- Man 827]

 

@"D"- Man - you built your own manifold/lines ?? Sarge, no I cleaned up a manifold that I had and had it plated with a decorative polished copper finish, and am using chrome hex bolts and Allen bolts.

[Sarge 3,463]

Ah, was going to congratulate you on some really stellar silver soldering work - not many can get it that neatly done....lol. I'm digging that copper coating though - looks awesome.

Wish I could go through and paint/repair some things on this D , but can't let it out of service for that long.

 

Sarge

[eddiebunyan 24]

That is beautiful! You decided to use allen head bolts on front and rear outside threads??Is there a tourque for the manifold bolts??

[eddiebunyan 24]

When rebuilding my auto-18 transaxle I couldn't find the pump gaske t#5955 so I did like someone said to use a "napa' gasket material and make my own..After that I saw on e-bay someone selling a "Toro #102759 gasket" geez it looked just like the #5955 gasket,so I bought one.When it arrived I realized(because I still had the "what was left of the original gasket" that it indeed was the #5955 gasket but updated to the Toro #102759 number.He had 5  left so I scoffed 4 of them up,leaving one for someone else?He sent me all 5 because one of them was not like the others!Same bolt pattern,same hole size's but a little short on gasket material on the top right and left side from bolt hole to bolt hole Earlier?? Still would work though.Toro didn't seem to recognize #102759 as that gasket??Perhaps the guy had "old stock" that was misnumbered??Good for me!

[stevasaurus 22,872]

supposedly the #5955 gasket is Discontinued and making your own is the option.  It is strange that TORO still supports the #3912 case half gasket for manual transmissions and not the one for autos.  This TORO number #102759 is new information on this site.  It would be great if it was true that TORO was supporting the #5955 gasket with your new number.  If anyone can check this out, it would be good.  Some TORO dealers are helpful and some aren't. 

["D"- Man 827]

The gasket Part #102759 is not just a Toro number it is a Wheel Horse number in the 18 Automatic Parts manual, page 7 Item # 4-55 See first two images below.  

Third and fourth images are of gaskets with a different Part #'s

Edited February 18, 2018 by "D"- Man

[eddiebunyan 24]

My"extra" gasket is just like the one in the third picture.Does that fit another application,or did they perhaps revise the gasket by adding more material to cover the case  edge better??