1267 8 speed help

[Solze1267 202]

I am stumped and hope someone can enlighten me. I have a 1267 with the 8 speed rear end. I was just out plowing snow and have discovered that if I lean to my right it chatters real bad and I stop moving regardless of what gear I’m in. I lean back to center or to the left and the tractor moves like it should. It DID NOT do this last summer after I got it running, and it is garage kept so I know ice didn’t get into anything. I am not familiar with how the belt driven rear ends work and hope someone else may have ran into this problem and can lend some knowledge

[squonk 41,375]

@stevasaurus maybe will chime in. 

[stevasaurus 22,872]

According to my paper work, you have the #5060 limited slip 10 pinion differential.  With what you said, it sounds like the issue may be in the differential.  Put the rear end on blocks.  With the engine not running and in neutral, turn one of the wheels...while turning slowly, both wheels may turn in the same direction...but it is possible that the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction.  Notice what happens and also listen for sounds of grinding...maybe have someone else hold the other wheel while you turn one.  If you are missing teeth in one of the gears, you may hear it or feel it.  If you feel something wrong in there...STOP HALT.  You do not want to run this anymore and risk further damage.  I think you will have to open the trans anyway at this point.

   If all seems OK...start up the horse (while still on blocks)...use 1st and/or reverse and try to hold one and then the other wheel while running in gear.  Shut off if you feel anything that does not feel right.   You are testing the pinions and the axle gears in the differential.  Let us know what you find or hear. 

   One other thing, before we get crazy here and you have the horse on blocks...check out your wood ruff keys (on both sides)...it is very possible that this is all that is wrong.  I am really thinking that this is what you have wrong...a loose hub and bad wood ruff key.  90% of wheel Horse owners have this problem happen while blading snow...it is the weakest link in these transmissions.  Draw a line across the axle and hub with an indulable pencil...do the way above by hand and see if the line is still straight.  You have to check both sides.  This is most likely what you have going on. 

[pfrederi 17,887]

 

I  agree that the woodruff key is a hot prospect.  One more realy off the wall idea.  mY l-107 acted up once would pull sometimes not others.  Turns out the rear tire was flat and had b broken free from the wheel.  At some points the wheel would spin and the tire wouldn't....but it worked going straight ahead....

Edited February 10, 2018 by pfrederi

[953 nut 55,849]

1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

check out your wood ruff keys (on both sides)...it is very possible that this is all that is wrong.  I am really thinking that this is what you have wrong...a loose hub and bad wood ruff key.

  With the limited slip if you are placing more weight on the side with a bad key or hub I would think it would slip more so I'm betting on the right hub! Of course I could be all wet and it is the left one.   

[Solze1267 202]

Thank you all for the responses when I have a free minute this weekend it will take a look at the hubs/keys and go from there. I hope this is a quick fix. I will keep you posted with the results

[R. L. Addison 299]

Might look at the frame while you are about it, where frame bolts to transmission, see if it may be cracked and belt starts slipping/chattering with weight shift.      Ron

[AMC RULES 37,134]

 It should not look like this. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Lol - that looks new compared to my 1277...it's shattered, again.

 

Sarge

[Solze1267 202]

Ok sorry it took so long. Did the test on stands and it passed and there were no cracks. Got stumped and put it all back together and it started working......but....now if I’m in any gear forward or reverse and depress the clutch completely to shift it I cannot go into another gear because the belt is under load and is spinning the transmission and will grind if I try to slip it in. If I stop the belt between the frame and my boot it will shift like normal. I’m wondering if my belt is stretched or maybe a pulley is bad? I feel like an idiot asking some of these questions but I know that there are people on here that can set me straight

[rjg854 11,494]

Do you have the belt guard on?

[Solze1267 202]

At the moment no

[rjg854 11,494]

That's why you're having trouble,  the belt guard helps the belt go slack on the transmission drive pulley, making it possible to shift without grinding. 

[Solze1267 202]

I knew it would be something little...I left it off to check it out not knowing the role it plays...thank you @rjg854

[rjg854 11,494]

No problem common mistake,  most of us have done it at least once,  ask me how I know. 

[Solze1267 202]

I’m afraid to ask lol

[Solze1267 202]

Well with a little shimming due to the cover riding the clutch pulley it drives amazing..in fact it runs smoother and seems to have more go in it now than when I first rebuilt it. I would like to thank everyone who chimed in to help get my horse back running

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Remember, the guard is really your clutch.  Glad everything worked for you.  I love a success story.    I have a feeling that the original problem was your hubs being loose, and when putting it back together, you fixed it.  Keep an eye on your hubs...it may happen again and you may need to replace those square head bolts.    Did you replace the wood ruff keys??

[Solze1267 202]

@stevasaurus sorry for the extremely late response....I was only able to get one hub off, the other was REALLY stuck. The key I did pull was in good condition and I put it back in. I think something was loose and with tightening everything up....and putting the belt guard on...it solved the problem. I’m keeping an eye on it for a while and will double check everything when I drain the rear end change the oil.