Lift Cylinder clevis issue

[pfrederi 17,886]

Charger 12 was plowing today when the blade dropped.  The Clevis that screws onto the cylinder shaft came off.  This is the second time it has happened.  Now obviously the clevis doesn't unscrew itself but the cylinder shaft must rotate over time until it falls out.  Any ideas how to prevent this??? it is one of the old welded cylinders....

Edited February 8, 2018 by pfrederi

[Sarge 3,463]

I've had to tack weld two of those - not sure why they want to work their way off but even using red Loctite and the primer didn't work. I just zapped it right on the tip of the shaft against the clevis with the welder grounded to a clean spot on the clevis - otherwise it can conduct through the cylinder which is really bad,lol. Just extend it out as far as possible and be prepared with a wet towel to cool it after a couple of seconds to stabilize. Why those want to spin off, is well beyond me....crazy.

 

Sarge

[hard worker 1]

could you call me at 6095772532 i would like to ask you a few questions thank you

[953 nut 55,835]

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

cylinder shaft must rotate over time until it falls out.

While the clevis is off I would drill and tap it for a small set screw.

[R. L. Addison 299]

Drill it for a small Spirol pin. 3/32 would do it.

[pfrederi 17,886]

Appreciate all the suggestions.  Backed her into the shop (fell apart only 75' from it) and fired up her backup an Electro 12 to finish plowing.  When you use 40-50 year old equipment having a spare is  good idea.

Edited February 9, 2018 by pfrederi

[Sarge 3,463]

A pin or set screw is a great idea - more than enough meat on that particular clevis for one , not sure why I didn't think of that versus welding it but the welder was right there - begging to burn something...lol.

 

Sarge

[pfrederi 17,886]

Decided to try the set screw method today on 1 machine.  (I have 4 Charger Electros all at the same risk)  Went with it as i could pull the clevis and put in a set screw with out having to remove the cylinder to drill through the shaft itself.  Will move on to the oers as time permits.

[Sarge 3,463]

Let us know how it works out - that would be a better solution than spot welding it which could weaken the end of the shaft and clevis itself.

Sarge

[Spareparts 84]

Is their not enough room for a jam nut on the rod, they make some thin ones

but the set screw would be better I think

[pfrederi 17,886]

35 minutes ago, Spareparts said:

Is their not enough room for a jam nut on the rod, they make some thin ones

but the set screw would be better I think

The rod does not come all the way through the clevis

["D"- Man 827]

+.

Perhaps Spareparts was suggesting that the thin jam nut could be placed on the shaft first, then the clevis be threaded up against the jam nut.

[pfrederi 17,886]

5 minutes ago, "D"- Man said:

+.

Perhaps Spareparts was suggesting that the thin jam nut could be placed on the shaft first, then the clevis be threaded up against the jam nut.

I see, didn't think of it that way.  one thing there is under 3/4" of thread on the shaft...and if they have separated in the past the last couple thread are not in the best shape.  Would have to be a thin jam nut to leave enough shaft to clevis contact.

[Spareparts 84]

They make thin jam nut,s for rod ends( Heim joints)

[pfrederi 17,886]

Just to update this.  I put in a set screw and have plowed numerous times since.  No sign of any movement. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Great, nice to hear some feedback on solutions - many times threads like this never get a follow-up.

The one I tack welded hasn't moved since, but taking it apart in the future might get interesting.

 

Sarge