New project - Raider 12 six speed

[Joshn569 273]

4 hours ago, WHX14 said:

I always like the black contrast with the red. I t just makes the whole tractor pop a little more and forces one to see detail work more. @JPWH, myself and @Achto is doing one with some black trim and no matter how you do it you can never be wrong. Next non original I do will get the same treatment.

 

Looking good .. get that tranny together and you'll have a fine roller!

That engine does look good in black!

I wasnt sure if doing the wheels black would offend anyone lol. 

I have a vision in my head so we shall see how she looks as it starts to come together. 

 

Side project,

Today I  put some tubes into my c81 front wheels. I quickly shot them in antique white. The rusty ole girl looks good with fresh paint on the wheels. 

[Joshn569 273]

Rear end is back together. 👍 Gonna have to order the input shaft and brake shaft seals again as I somehow destroyed them putting the cases together. 

 

Got a few more parts in primer too. Kohler shroud will need some work as the bottom has some areas of swiss cheese. 

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,036]

6 hours ago, Joshn569 said:

Rear end is back together. 👍 Gonna have to order the input shaft and brake shaft seals again as I somehow destroyed them putting the cases together. 

 

Been there. I usually don't like to put the oil seals on until after I have the transmission back together. Seems like I don't ruin them as fast this way. The horse is looking good, keep it up!!

[WHX?? 49,486]

Boogered up seals has been done by the best of us so you are in good company. Sometimes I'll wreck one on purpose just to have it over and done with!  Lube up seals well when installing and maybe some tape over sometimes  sharp keyway edges to keep from cutting seals.

[Joshn569 273]

Oh yea look what came in the mail today 

[Joshn569 273]

Some more progress. 

Added and hour meter. Got my block back from the machine shop with a fresh cylinder bore.

 

Waiting on some warm weather to do some more painting

[Joshn569 273]

Got the mule drive retro fit onto the raider. Had to cut a notch out of the front bracket the hood mounts to but it worked out good.

 

Question on rear axels, does the hub set screw get set behind the key? One side had the set screw right in the keyway and the other behind it. I tightend it down while behind it but questioned how far the axel is sticking through the hub.

[Achto 27,913]

1 hour ago, Joshn569 said:

Question on rear axels, does the hub set screw get set behind the key?

 

The set screw should tighten down on top of the key. Your axle should be flush with end of the hub.

[WHX?? 49,486]

[Pullstart 63,201]

I think the trans hi/lo lever needs to point forward, I think.  But I can only hope my upcoming trans rebuilt looks this great when it's done!

[Joshn569 273]

5 hours ago, pullstart said:

I think the trans hi/lo lever needs to point forward, I think.  But I can only hope my upcoming trans rebuilt looks this great when it's done!

Yea I had it backwards lol 

[Joshn569 273]

A few more things bolted on. I kind of rushed painting the rear rims, plus it was cold out (i paint outside then bring them right inside to dry) and well they dont look as good as I had hoped. I may redo them. I think i put a tire on backwards also, didnt think it matterd but the tread is going opposite ways but thats for another day.

 

Got some paint on the engine. Should have the cylinder done tomorrow and then i can start to assemble it.

 

Started to take the start/gen apart for rebuild and paint too.

 

I never was able to get the steering wheel off. Even with using a press she didnt wanna budge. So instead of breaking something i just worked around it. 

 

I need to drag my mower deck inside and give it a good once over sooner than later also.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Very nice!  I wonder if there is any other brand of GT that get's such respectful attention?

 

One thing that I feel I must add, I ran an autobody shop for 16 years and I've fought insidious rust for over 45 yrs.  There are many choices, and I suspect some better, but I know many far worse, than Rustoleum Damp-proof 769.  That "769" is what to look for.  I've seen it last for over 20 years over wire brushed steel with NO top coat and CONTINUOUSLY outdoors.  I'm impressed!  Many other "primers" can't come close unless ALL the rust is removed and that can't be done with a wire brush alone, and seldom with anything mechanical unless acid metal preps are also used.  Another step to try to include!  I just hate for anyone to go through all this effort to create a fine restoration and then have it fail a few years later. Think of rust as cancer and use all means to stop it!  Again, I'm sure there are others, but Rustoleum 769 has done well for me.  I have an old wheelbarrow and other parts to prove it!  I'm not trying to support Rustoleum but I am trying to express that cheap cans of "Primer" aren't equal.  Not at all!

 

Rust persists even when visibly removed.  Then only metal preps will remove the last bit.  Now that could be in metal preps or in etching primers (and 769 has none!  But still works somehow...) but the point is if all isn't removed it will return.  I've seen repairs that I'VE done and seen rust grow with a life-like root system that mimicked a plant root system!  A spot that I had sanded and that had been primed over and coated with multiple coats of paint!  That grew like a root system!  How did it grow when I thought ALL traces of rust was gone!

 

Google "rust 769" if interested.  Or "rust primer" for other choices.  You will still find 769 but others as well.  Some might even be better!  Point is, use a primer that has proven good rust resistance on these precious Wheel Horses! 

[Joshn569 273]

@DennisThornton thanks for the info. I will look for the 769 next time I buy some primer. I dont really know to much about auto body and painting, but I have actually learned alot through out this project from the folks here with tips and tricks and suggestions. 

 

 

[RandyLittrell 3,885]

7 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

Very nice!  I wonder if there is any other brand of GT that get's such respectful attention?

 

One thing that I feel I must add, I ran an autobody shop for 16 years and I've fought insidious rust for over 45 yrs.  There are many choices, and I suspect some better, but I know many far worse, than Rustoleum Damp-proof 769.  That "769" is what to look for.  I've seen it last for over 20 years over wire brushed steel with NO top coat and CONTINUOUSLY outdoors.  I'm impressed!  Many other "primers" can't come close unless ALL the rust is removed and that can't be done with a wire brush alone, and seldom with anything mechanical unless acid metal preps are also used.  Another step to try to include!  I just hate for anyone to go through all this effort to create a fine restoration and then have it fail a few years later. Think of rust as cancer and use all means to stop it!  Again, I'm sure there are others, but Rustoleum 769 has done well for me.  I have an old wheelbarrow and other parts to prove it!  I'm not trying to support Rustoleum but I am trying to express that cheap cans of "Primer" aren't equal.  Not at all!

 

Rust persists even when visibly removed.  Then only metal preps will remove the last bit.  Now that could be in metal preps or in etching primers (and 769 has none!  But still works somehow...) but the point is if all isn't removed it will return.  I've seen repairs that I'VE done and seen rust grow with a life-like root system that mimicked a plant root system!  A spot that I had sanded and that had been primed over and coated with multiple coats of paint!  That grew like a root system!  How did it grow when I thought ALL traces of rust was gone!

 

Google "rust 769" if interested.  Or "rust primer" for other choices.  You will still find 769 but others as well.  Some might even be better!  Point is, use a primer that has proven good rust resistance on these precious Wheel Horses! 

 

 

I have been in and around the body shops for 30 years and I don't think anywhere I have worked used that 769. I am going to find some and use it for myself. I trust a guys word when he makes a living from what he uses! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[RandyLittrell 3,885]

Here are some links I found. Interesting reading. 

 

http://www.rust-oleum.eu/769_780_metal_primer

 

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/67019

 

Randy

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Not saying that Rustoleum 769 is the best, just that it's way better than many.  It's old school and I know there's others and perhaps some better. 

What I am saying is don't skimp on the first prep because everything else depends on it! 

[classiccat 548]

9 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Not saying that Rustoleum 769 is the best, just that it's way better than many.  It's old school and I know there's others and perhaps some better. 

What I am saying is don't skimp on the first prep because everything else depends on it! 

 

with bare metal, would you put the 769 over rustoleum self-etching primer?

 

EDIT: it looks like it's recommended application methods are brush/roll or airless sprayer.  So it can't be thinned for HVLP?  (sorry for being lazy on researching it!)

Edited March 22, 2018 by classiccat

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Not saying that Rustoleum 769 is the best, just that it's way better than many.  It's old school and I know there's others and perhaps some better. 

What I am saying is don't skimp on the first prep because everything else depends on it! 

The 769 can deal with some rust.  Many others can't. I don't know if Rustoleum etching primers can either, though perhaps a little bit of flash rust.

I need some current research as well. 

[RandyLittrell 3,885]

7 hours ago, classiccat said:

 

with bare metal, would you put the 769 over rustoleum self-etching primer?

 

EDIT: it looks like it's recommended application methods are brush/roll or airless sprayer.  So it can't be thinned for HVLP?  (sorry for being lazy on researching it!)

 

http://www.ro-m.com/asp/upload/beheer/pdf/PDS 0769-gb.pdf

 

Here is the data sheet, it was in the downloads. 

 

It looks like its a slow drying primer, not good for wanting do a weekend project, but it would be great for priming, then setting outside for a week or month till you get to it. 

 

As someone who used to paint for a living, I usually avoid some of these discussions because its very hard to put into words that a novice would understand. At least for me. Also, there are soooooo many ways to paint something and they can all be right, but can be wrong if some steps are mixed up.

 

When you paint for a living or just do a lot at home, you find out what works or doesn't by making mistakes. And today's mistakes can be very costly.  

 

Too bad someone didn't make a "paint a tractor for dummies" kit that came with everything you needed! 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

 

[Joshn569 273]

I was planning on using the old carb instead of the one that came with my engine kit, but when i tore it down today i found it was damaged so i will give the new one a try. Im a little skeptical about how well a cheap carb will perform, but i will give it a chance.

 

Motor is in! This thing is starting to look like a tractor again! I used some bondo to fill the holes in the bottom of the shroud. Still need a fuel pump rebuild kit and exhaust but im close. I want to use a stack if anyone has any suggestions

 

I also picked up a fuse block and starter solenoid. Might try to put them in if i can find a spot when i start to rewire everything.

[Achto 27,913]

That's looking really nice, I like the black accents.

[classiccat 548]

Lookin' really sharp!!

 

and you don't have to worry 'bout your thumb rustin' up on ya! 

[rjg854 11,574]

10 hours ago, Achto said:

That's looking really nice, I like the black accents.

  I was thinking the exact same thing.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

On 3/22/2018 at 7:58 PM, RandyLittrell said:

 

http://www.ro-m.com/asp/upload/beheer/pdf/PDS 0769-gb.pdf

 

Here is the data sheet, it was in the downloads. 

 

It looks like its a slow drying primer, not good for wanting do a weekend project, but it would be great for priming, then setting outside for a week or month till you get to it. 

 

As someone who used to paint for a living, I usually avoid some of these discussions because its very hard to put into words that a novice would understand. At least for me. Also, there are soooooo many ways to paint something and they can all be right, but can be wrong if some steps are mixed up.

 

When you paint for a living or just do a lot at home, you find out what works or doesn't by making mistakes. And today's mistakes can be very costly.  

 

Too bad someone didn't make a "paint a tractor for dummies" kit that came with everything you needed! 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

 

Yeah.  What he said.  It's hard with so many variables... 

Maybe I can point out one major thing that I think is overlooked.  Folks grind off the visible rust and spray an ordinary sandable primer/filler and feel good about it.  All I'd be nauseated.  It will fail.  Soon?  Later?  But it will fail!  Got to either metal prep or use a metal inhibiting primer!  Or pray...