Rust Removal

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've killed a LOT of rust in my time from semi tankers to tiny tools with big sandblasters, electricity, abrasives and chemicals.  One of my fondest is Evaporust but I just saw a video that really impressed me:

http://drxcleaner.com/videos/

 

Anyone seen or perhaps used it? 

And if you haven't tried Evaporust perhaps you should. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Interesting. I wonder how it affects paint adhesion on the long term ?

 

Sarge

[roadapples 6,983]

I'm impressed....

[953 nut 55,744]

I have found that Evaporust will remove light surface rust, but had a few old wrenches that soaked in it for ab week with no noticeable improvement.

[wallfish 17,078]

Cider vinegar works pretty good too but it's not instant results.

 

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497]

Never saw anything as good as that, thanks Dennis.

 

Glenn

[DennisThornton 4,769]

8 hours ago, Sarge said:

Interesting. I wonder how it affects paint adhesion on the long term ?

 

Sarge

They have a metal prep "sealer" as well.  I'd think it would then be primer ready. 

4 hours ago, wallfish said:

Cider vinegar works pretty good too but it's not instant results.

 

Vinegar does work! And real good!  And cheaply! But for me only if it's soaked for days. 

7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I have found that Evaporust will remove light surface rust, but had a few old wrenches that soaked in it for ab week with no noticeable improvement.

It's worked on every thing I've tried but seems to get consumed, used up, rather quickly. 

[953 nut 55,744]

2 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

metal prep "sealer" as well.  I'd think it would then be primer ready.

Dennis, anything that is between metal and primer WILL fail,     in my opinion.

[Chris G 3,296]

I'm impressed. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Dennis, anything that is between metal and primer WILL fail,     in my opinion.

I used metal prep prior to priming.  All auto manufacturers do.  Mostly phosphoric acid. Etches, removes any flash rust and inhibits rust until it is primed. 

Edited February 2, 2018 by DennisThornton

[Sarge 3,463]

While it's not always feasible, I do prefer blasting parts to give a proper surface finish for "bite". There are times I can see pores that are not fully cleaned - I just go to a more aggressive grit but get repaid by having to use a heavier builder/primer on the base. Epoxy primers are the way to go , but pricey stuff but it does better seal up the metal and stops migration of rust pores. Now, if a guy did the blasting first, then used something of this nature to remove the rust - and used epoxy primers - I'd suspect that would be ideal . Big difference when you are dealing with old, porous metal versus new steel - you have to take the extra steps to seal up and fill any damage from time and corrosion to the metal . Otherwise, you'll regret it later as it will come back.

 

Sarge

[Tankman 3,518]

Impressed. May try some, weather permitting. It's 12 degrees out today. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 

[pacer 3,174]

I just ordered a gallon --- vids were impressive!

 

I too like to use 'sand' blasting for the reasons like Sarge mentioned, but what causes me the most time/aggravation is the small parts - nuts, bolts clips, etc. When I really need to re-use these items I go ahead and use the cabinet, but its time consuming (and hard on gloves!) - so I'm hoping this DRZ will help with this part of the restoring.

[Sarge 3,463]

If you're blasting hardware, get a screen tool for holding/blasting small parts - I've made a few of my own out of perforated metal and it really helps to save the gloves. I've been using the Scat brand replacement gloves - they last quite awhile but it all depends on what media you're using.

http://www.tptools.com/The-Original-Skat-Blast-Bolt-Basket,252.html?b=d*8033

 

http://www.skatblast.com/cabinet-gloves.html

 

 

Sarge

[classicdmax 190]

I’ve used white vinegar/salt mixture with good results 

[pacer 3,174]

1 hour ago, Sarge said:

If you're blasting hardware, get a screen tool for holding/blasting small parts

 

Yeah, I had also made a couple - but I was recently poking around wally world and spotted a fine mesh office paper holder - like in/out papers - about 12x18ish and that is really the best so far.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

10 hours ago, pacer said:

I just ordered a gallon --- vids were impressive!

 

I too like to use 'sand' blasting for the reasons like Sarge mentioned, but what causes me the most time/aggravation is the small parts - nuts, bolts clips, etc. When I really need to re-use these items I go ahead and use the cabinet, but its time consuming (and hard on gloves!) - so I'm hoping this DRZ will help with this part of the restoring.

Of course you will share your results here! It sure looks like it out performs Evaporust. 

9 hours ago, classicdmax said:

I’ve used white vinegar/salt mixture with good results

Vinegar alone works well.  Perhaps it's the most overlooked under appreciated rust remover.  But I've only used it for soaking, like Evaporust.  This other stuff we at seems to work well by just spraying.  That's new to me! 

[Sarge 3,463]

That stuff is pretty different - I may pick up some just to de-rust larger pieces of steel when fabricating/welding stuff, would work great for that. I do like that it doesn't attack paints - but wonder if it may remove the gloss if left on too long. There are various methods used by folks to remove surface rusting on painted areas like old cars - some even use household chemicals with some interesting results. For preserving patina - might be interesting if you don't want to paint an original machine, just give it a clear coat or whatever.

Thanks for the heads up - I'm always interested in new products to solve common issues.

 

Sarge