Pullstart 62,786 #1 Posted January 28, 2018 Now that my room is booked, I really don't have much excuse not to give my first Wheelhorse "Put Put" the deserved lovin' that it needs! The last time it was on a road trip was to Scott's Meet and Greet in maybe 2016 or so. On the road, the left side of the hood cracked where the top meets the front. I guess that's due to the front mount being ripped off since I picked up the tractor quite a while back. Last night I pulled the tractor into the shop, and started welding up the seam. I couldn't figure a way to just repair the crack, so I tacked the entire hood seam, then started grinding back welds. Let me just say, that I'm a fabricator, but have never done body work to speak of. I didn't realize how warped the hood panels were! I'm going to do my best to smooth out the joint, but not to repair the years of work and age that this hood (or the rest of the tractor for that matter) have earned. There are dents and bruises, they'll just be cleaned up and painted. You can also see I started fabbing a support for the exhaust too. Another order of business, is I know I need to become a member... I've needed it from day one but other priorities have gotten in the way. As soon as I can remember my paypal login, I'm getting that done! 12 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,127 #2 Posted January 28, 2018 Cool to see that old Cherry Bomb again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #3 Posted January 28, 2018 23 minutes ago, AMC RULES said: Cool to see that old Cherry Bomb again. Tell me about it! This thing has been couped up way too long. I've got a list of things to do, along with others I'm sure I'll find along the way. Re-route and clamp down throttle/choke cables Re-route fuel line, see if I can shorten up the fuel bowl to create a better gravity for the fuel pump to prime Fix the hood, create a mount for the front Finish the exhaust support Find a shorter air filter... another part of the reason for the hood cracking, I'm sure Maybe split the trans, get some new axle bearings and seals... it tends to run dry after a while Get a new gasket for the fuel cap And if I'm really ambitious... Paint something? Engine/tins, exhaust, wheels, frame? Maybe just the hood and the engine for now... I'm not sure. I like the fenders the way they are, but it'll take a bit to get the hood to match that patina. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #4 Posted January 30, 2018 If anyone has any pictures in detail of how the front of the hood mounts to the frame, I'd surely appreciate it! I did something up this weekend, but would like to see if it's correct-enough! Thanks in advance... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,707 #5 Posted January 30, 2018 I'm not sure if this is enough detail, but it should give you a good look. There is a nut on the back side of the hood and it should have one of those knurled thumb screws in there (the long one). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #6 Posted January 31, 2018 Ok, that's kind of what I did, except I don't have any knurled thumb screws right now! So it'll either be a 1/4-20 bolt, or a wing-nut welded to a bolt for a bit. Thanks, @stevasaurus! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #7 Posted February 28, 2018 Ok, so I'm trying to find as much garage time as possible to get my 502 to the big show in one operating piece. In the meantime, I figured I should rectify and upgrade some details that are lacking. And I've got a few questions to get me through for now: One - The front wheels have always been held onto the hubs by some bent nails and there is no dust cap or other retainer method. Anyone have any pictures/suggestions on what is correct? Two - I have a K-181T on the tractor and plan to get one of those new fandangled ebay carbs that so many people rave about. I put a cam operated fuel pump on the engine from a newer vertical shaft Kohler a couple years ago because it seemed to always be starving/running out of fuel and took about 2.5 million pulls to get it fired up, once below about 1/2 tank of gas. With a new carb, will a fuel pump be needed? I built a sleeve for the fuel line to run behind the fan shroud for a somewhat direct path to the front of the engine. Three - I'm not sure if my fuel cap is original to the tractor, or something a P.O. just had laying around in the past. But either way, it seems somewhat loose as far as tank neck diameter goes and the gasket is toast causing it to leak fuel when it's above 1/2 tank and I'm driving/working in the yard. See #2 above, I couldn't get it to run well below 1/2 tank, so this causes an issue. Is this the proper cap, and if so is there a good way to replace the gasket? It seems to be pinched in place by rivets. If it's not correct, anyone have experience with a decent supplier of caps? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #8 Posted February 28, 2018 I've also rebuilt my exhaust support and repaired my hood stand, @Stigian would be proud I cut the repair piece from an old yard cart tailgate that someone dropped off for my scrap pile! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #9 Posted February 28, 2018 5 hours ago, pullstart said: One - The front wheels have always been held onto the hubs by some bent nails and there is no dust cap or other retainer method. Anyone have any pictures/suggestions on what is correct? I love it when I can answer my own questions in a way... A nice fellow you might have heard of, @Jake Kuhn sold me an 854 (I believe that's it) chassis a while back that I literally just stumbled upon looking for my other set of C-101 wheels. I had bolted my old 3 speed trans to it, rolled it between the barns and covered it up for the winter. Other than needing to remove the welded dash stand from the frame, my tape measure says that the important parts of the frame all have the same mounting holes to do a frame swap. That entire front axle is in much tighter shape than mine, and has the improved steering design / radius. Plus, the stub axles are drilled and tapped for a keeper bolt instead of requiring a cotter/retainer pin (bent old nail). The things a fellow dares to forget he has... I tell ya! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #10 Posted March 9, 2018 So after looking at Jay Paxton's 854 build I realized that my donor chassis is a 604 not an 854. I believe it's pretty much the same, shy of the battery tray but I figured I'd mention that. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #12 Posted March 9, 2018 Here's the main reason for the chassis swap. Note the huge improvement of steering radius that I'll achieve between the 502 and 604 chassis! This is full lock for both tractors. And as a side note, the steering shaft gear and fan gear are the same for both tractors so the steering angle is all in the front. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,268 #13 Posted March 9, 2018 On 2/28/2018 at 7:34 AM, pullstart said: Ok, so I'm trying to find as much garage time as possible to get my 502 to the big show in one operating piece. In the meantime, I figured I should rectify and upgrade some details that are lacking. And I've got a few questions to get me through for now: One - The front wheels have always been held onto the hubs by some bent nails and there is no dust cap or other retainer method. Anyone have any pictures/suggestions on what is correct? Two - I have a K-181T on the tractor and plan to get one of those new fandangled ebay carbs that so many people rave about. I put a cam operated fuel pump on the engine from a newer vertical shaft Kohler a couple years ago because it seemed to always be starving/running out of fuel and took about 2.5 million pulls to get it fired up, once below about 1/2 tank of gas. With a new carb, will a fuel pump be needed? See #2 above, I couldn't get it to run well below 1/2 tank, so this causes an issue. Two reasons from above I would use a fuel pump. 1. I have a 2.45 million "pull limit" so if you're having that much of a hard time starting it. ... 2. The half tank or lower no start condition. I bought one of those carbs and you can find a fair pile of info in my C160 resto thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #14 Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Two reasons from above I would use a fuel pump. 1. I have a 2.45 million "pull limit" so if you're having that much of a hard time starting it. ... 2. The half tank or lower no start condition. I bought one of those carbs and you can find a fair pile of info in my C160 resto thread. I think I'll get one of the carbs, then decide weather I should use a pump or not... once the carb has all it's vacuum stuff sorted out. I'm sure the slop in the throttle shaft, etc doesn't allow the fuel system to work properly... after all, it didn't have one to begin with! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,268 #15 Posted March 9, 2018 Just now, pullstart said: I think I'll get one of the carbs, then decide weather I should use a pump or not... once the carb has all it's vacuum stuff sorted out. I'm sure the slop in the throttle shaft, etc doesn't allow the fuel system to work properly... after all, it didn't have one to begin with! You are absolutely correct in your line of thinking that vacuum issues could cause your problems. ... With the engine not running correctly. I don't know enough about your particular engine to know if vacuum has any effect on drawing fuel into the carburetor Bowl, but I don't think it does. Given the understanding that every machine has its own idiosyncrasies... my experience shows me that in general, if the bottom of the gas tank is just above the top of the fuel Inlet, at minimum, and you can route your fuel line to keep it full of fuel... relatively straight with no deep down curves... No issues. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,663 #16 Posted March 9, 2018 29 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: You are absolutely correct in your line of thinking that vacuum issues could cause your problems. ... With the engine not running correctly. I don't know enough about your particular engine to know if vacuum has any effect on drawing fuel into the carburetor Bowl, but I don't think it does. Given the understanding that every machine has its own idiosyncrasies... my experience shows me that in general, if the bottom of the gas tank is just above the top of the fuel Inlet, at minimum, and you can route your fuel line to keep it full of fuel... relatively straight with no deep down curves... No issues. The gravity feed used in my Lawn Ranger L107 has performed flawlessly for 50 years now. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #17 Posted March 9, 2018 Shows promise.. my glass fuel bowl under the tank has a longer than I'd like to see nipple (no funny business now ) feeding from the tank, maybe a 1/4" x close would help keep the feed above the fuel bowl just that little bit more. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,268 #18 Posted March 9, 2018 9 minutes ago, pullstart said: (no funny business now ) Good thing you put that there.... 11 minutes ago, pullstart said: maybe a 1/4" x close would help keep the feed above the fuel bowl just that little bit more. Seems fair 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #19 Posted March 12, 2018 Some progress without pictures, everyone's favorite... The trans mount on the 604 frame was cracked about 3" up from the bottom near both bottom bolt holes, and a 1" long crack near each of the top bolt holes too. I used a burr on my die grinder to groove out the cracks, drilled an 1/8" hole at the ends of the cracks and tig welded everything up once it was all clamped in place. I ground any high spots back down and filled in all the random holes near the engine mount area of the frame (I think 3 holes on the right side for random engine mounts over the years). Most all the rust and loose paint has been needle scaled and it's ready for paint prep. Oh yeah, I also welded heavy washers around the holes on the bolt head side of the trans mounts to act as a "fish plate" to the other side of the cracks. I figure I might look at some of the additional kicker braces people have built on their frames and decide weather I should have something welded or bolted in place. I don't want to interfere with the mower deck or any ground engaging attachments, ya know! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #20 Posted March 15, 2018 Woo Hoo finally got into Paypal and became a supporter! Sorry nothing to do with the 502 build, but woo hoo! 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,770 #21 Posted March 15, 2018 20 clams well spent! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cpete1 332 #22 Posted March 15, 2018 Congratulations on becoming a supporter and thanks for the blow by blow on the rebuild. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #23 Posted March 16, 2018 I cut the hood repair panel out of a box store yard cart/trailer tailgate that was dropped off for my scrap pile, then trimmed it to fit between the frame rails and rest on the edges of the angle iron. There are two pictures of the steering wheel while the 502 was still assembled. Notice the slop between the two pictures, and the tires had not moved! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #24 Posted March 18, 2018 So after some thought, I have some questions... or thoughts... or maybe a poll. The tractor started as a 502. 5 horse, pull start, '62 model year. Now it will have an 8 hp Kohler, C-101 8 speed trans, C-101 wheels, a 604 Frame and 502 sheet metal. Is it still a 502? Like the tag says, I think I like the idea of the belt cover panel saying 502 then where the small ... is, have small 8-8 for 8 horse and 8 speed. Ideas? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,786 #25 Posted March 18, 2018 https://www.redoyourhorse.com/1962-wheel-horse-502-decal-set/ here's the decals that I'd like to base off from, from @Vinylguy's website. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
