'74 C160-8 Restomodification in Process

[19richie66 17,522]

Nice job there 👍

[ebinmaine 68,155]

3 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

Nice job there 👍

Thanks man. 

Learned a lot from you and the rest o this here forum. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Just a heads up  -

You're better off to run the grounds to a single point on the frame,  then use a 12ga wire to the battery negative post. Running a ground in a single direction chain to each system can lead to loop issues and cause the voltage regulator to get a false reading or burn out.

 

I generally use one of the bolts that mount the regulator to the chassis. If the regulator is mounted on the dash stand as is the case with the C160, run a ground wire to a frame bolt instead and bring all the system's grounds to that point. I use a jumper wire and use internal tooth lock washers to mount the regulator so the wire can ground the regulator body properly .  This will keep things tidy and prevent ground loops and interference. It also helps voltage meters and other gauges read more accurately and prevent future grounding issues.

 

I still always run at least an 6ga ground wire directly to the starter's mounting bolt to prevent the starter from ever using something else as a ground path, such as the choke or throttle cables.

 

Sarge

[ebinmaine 68,155]

IT'S ALIIVVE !!!

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,155]

And while I was puttering  in the workshop....

 

 

Edited March 11, 2018 by ebinmaine

[ebinmaine 68,155]

Quick base coat of paint.

 

 

More coats as the evening progresses 

 

[PeacemakerJack 10,738]

Looking good Eric! It always feels great to get an engine running after you’ve had it apart for awhile.  I also like the TEAM effort in the video above-awesome.  You’ll have it up and rolling in no time, and we get to enjoy watching the process...

[19richie66 17,522]

Im along for more. Just brewed a pot of java. Carry on 

[ebinmaine 68,155]

33 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Im along for more. Just brewed a pot of java. Carry on 

Sound like a grand idea! 

[ebinmaine 68,155]

@PeacemakerJack, Up and running. ... sort of.

I noticed when torquing the head the wrench felt wrong. Too strong.

I have 2 head bolts with seepage near them.

I'm going to pick up another torque wrench and head gasket soon and try again.

Need some other stuff too.

Battery cables,  solenoid etc.

 

[oldredrider 2,549]

Suggestion: Remove all the head bolts and chase the threads with a good tap. Blow out the holes with compressed air. Coat the bolts with Never Seize and torque with a known good (calibrated) wrench.

[ebinmaine 68,155]

6 hours ago, oldredrider said:

Suggestion: Remove all the head bolts and chase the threads with a good tap. Blow out the holes with compressed air. Coat the bolts with Never Seize and torque with a known good (calibrated) wrench.

I did the Chase and blew them out.

Coated them with engine oil.

Known good torque wrench. .. not so much..

I appreciate the help.

 

I used engine oil because that's what we used to use installing cylinder heads on steel V8 engines when I was younger. Is never seize preferred?

Edited March 12, 2018 by ebinmaine

[ebinmaine 68,155]

Seat frame mostly painted. Likely put a couple more coats for good  measure. 

 

Before and after:

 

 

Let's give it a couple days to dry and us to get through this next Nor'easter. We'll get some foam and Marine vinyl on there fairly soon.

[ebinmaine 68,155]

19 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@PeacemakerJack, Up and running. ... sort of.

I noticed when torquing the head the wrench felt wrong. Too strong.

I have 2 head bolts with seepage near them.

I'm going to pick up another torque wrench and head gasket soon and try again.

 

I picked up a new torque wrench and checked the head bolts.

Spec should be 300 - 360 inch pounds.

Turns out 0 of the 10 were at that spec.

A couple were over 300. The rest were under 300. One was actually at about 200.

I brought them all up to spec.

We'll try to get this engine running again after I finish installing the new battery cables.

 

Probably repurpose my old torque wrench to something like an oddly-shaped hammer.

[ebinmaine 68,155]

I took a couple hours and messed around with "Paint" on my PC and used @BOB ELLISON 's schematic as a base for my own rendering of the wiring on m C160.

Colors are accurate to the best of the program.

 

Notes:

Ammeter out, Volt meter in.

Volt meter positive is connected to ignition terminal so as to get a volt reading while cranking, not just when in "run" position.

No safety switches are noted, or used.

Extra Ground cables are connected to starter bolt, volt meter light ground, voltage regulator mounting bolt.

 

Print, save etc for your own.

 

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

@ebinmaine your not going to use a fuse ???? You need a fuse for the lights and the voltage gage. That's why I use the A  terminal on the switch that's for accessories. A fuse or 2 never  hurts and it will help stop cooked wires.

[ebinmaine 68,155]

3 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

@ebinmaine your not going to use a fuse ???? You need a fuse for the lights and the voltage gage. That's why I use the A  terminal on the switch that's for accessories. A fuse or 2 never  hurts and it will help stop cooked wires.

I am Bob, yes... but I kinda took it out of the schematic and couldn't figure out how to pop it back in. 

I'm gonna use LEDs so I'll have almost no amp draw but I'll add it in to the light circuit.

[953 nut 55,709]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

gonna use LEDs so I'll have almost no amp draw

The amp draw of the lights is a minor consideration, it is the amp draw of a chafed wire against the frame that lets the magic smoke out of the wire.        

[ebinmaine 68,155]

3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The amp draw of the lights is a minor consideration, it is the amp draw of a chafed wire against the frame that lets the magic smoke out of the wire.        

That's a valid point. I'll make sure to put some extra magic smoke sealant on all the wires.

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Don't forget the light in the volt gage also.

[ebinmaine 68,155]

11 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Don't forget the light in the volt gage also.

Thanks!

What size fuse??

[Achto 27,729]

On 3/12/2018 at 11:16 AM, ebinmaine said:

I used engine oil because that's what we used to use installing cylinder heads on steel V8 engines when I was younger. Is never seize preferred?

 

Lubing the the threads with engine oil is fine. Most engine manufacturers just state that you should lube the threads of head bolts before torquing. I even lube the under side of the bolt head when I install head bolts, this might be over kill but it makes me feel better.

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Thanks!

What size fuse??

15amp is ok 20 amp if you use halogen lights. LED lights dont draw that much.

Edited March 13, 2018 by BOB ELLISON

[oldredrider 2,549]

Fuses should be rated by wire size. Google is your friend. 

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

@ebinmaine @oldredrider is right.

 wire size does determine fuse size. So if you wired your tractor with 14 gage use the 15amp fuse.

16 gage 7.5amp

14 gage wire needs 15amp 

12 gage needs 20amp