My 856 Project

[jebbear 377]

While I'm contemplating the pedal issue, I did finish up the wiring modifications with the fuse additions. The large fuse holder was a head scratcher trying to figure out a place to put it without interfering with other stuff, almost like putting the proverbial 10lbs of you know what into a 5lb bag! What I ended up doing was drilling and countersinking an all threaded stove bolt down through the pan that mounts the gas tank. This would accommodate a wing nut to go through the mounting hole of the fuse holder to facilitate easy removal if needed. This is where it got a little tricky so that the bolt head didn't stick up and and interfere with or rub on the bottom of the tank. I even rolled up some balls of putty and dry fit the tank squishing the putty several times to assure adequate clearance. The only place that it would fit was directly in the bend crease of the tank holder (but not on the seam of the tank itself), and couldn't move it rearward any more than where it is at. I then cut a small square of 1/4" thick hard rubber that I had laying around in my junk collection to act as a mount for the fuse holder. Here are a few pics of the setup and completed harness:

 

The countersunk mounting bolt and rubber bumper prior to attaching the fuse holder (the 2 black marks are where the tank seam is and an area to avoid) ...

 

Next the attached fuse holder with wingnut...

 

...and from the left side of the tractor. Note the floating in-line 20 amp fuse holder that was also added. I do plan on binding and lashing up some of these wires once I'm sure that I'm done with them, but for now it's kind of a bowl of spaghetti.

 

And a couple more pics of just the general wiring inside of the dash panel and also the starter/generator with the regulator. I made up all new cables with marine heat shrink attached with exception of the yellow wire to the lighter (I didn't have any yellow wire in my stock ) but the existing was actually in pretty good shape anyway.

 

...And a few more after mounting the gas tank.

 

So, after getting this far along, I just couldn't resist! I had to turn the key in order to make sure that I didn't have to tear it all down & start over, but more importantly to make sure that I kept all of the smoke confined inside of the system . I didn't gas it up yet (I'm still in the basement), but she cranks over just fine and have spark at the plug!

 

So that pretty much sums up where I'm at to date. The major stuff that is still holding me hostage is the aforementioned painting issue of the rear rims (weather) and the attachment pedal issue. In case anyone is wondering why I don't have the air cleaner cover installed in any of the photos to date, that is a result of my own dumbness. Back when I was painting, I simply overlooked it (lost in the shuffle) and it didn't get painted! I'll just have to wait until I get the mower deck finished (haven't even started other than the tear-down) then give it a shot at that time. Same with the muffler (at least I was aware of this one), I need to sandblast it and want to give it a coat of manifold paint, which probably won't last too long, but at least it will look nice for a couple of days . Still kind of looking for some more opinions from you guys on whether or not you all think my primary wire to the coil is routed correctly.

And one more thing that I am requesting a little help on is the CORRECT way to route and ATTACH my throttle linkage to the carburetor. I know for fact that the way I had it before I started this operation had been modified so many times that it did not seem correct. I planned to get into this a little deeper at a later date, but was kind of hoping some of you might have some detail photos of the setup from similar vintage tractors. Generally speaking, route over the muffler, under the muffler, location of clamps/brackets, approach angle to the carb, and the alignment and attachment to the little governor linkage wheel ? My manual just doesn't show any of this clear enough for me to decipher. I'll try to round up some photos of my "before" setup and maybe explain things a little better down the road of why I didn't like it the way it was. Just wanted to give you all a little "heads up", and most of all, thanks for putting up with me and all of my questions!

 

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by jebbear

[Sarge 3,463]

Just a suggestion -

Those heavy duty key switches have to carry that high current to run the starting side of the starter-generator, to keep it safer and remove the chance of a lot of current potentially shorting out against the fuel tank you can use a starter relay. There are some small, but more than capable enough relays for small engines out there that can be mounted to the frame, right behind the battery on the right side of most late 60's models. Once the belt guard is installed - it is quite hidden from view and looks as though it's the way it was designed in the first place. This makes the wiring in the dash much simpler, and much easier to shoehorn that fuel tank into it's tray. The relays can also handle the current better versus relying on the mechanical contacts in that Cole-Hersee key switch, which aren't easy to find anymore. Up to you, I still run a NOS key switch in the old 1277, I prefer that cool L-key anyway versus the later common Indak keys. When that one gets rebuilt - it will get a relay to remove the heavy wiring in the dash, just makes sense to me. 

 

Sarge

[WHX?? 49,189]

On that attachments pedal Jeb I probaly have a couple I will never use. I can check to see if the hole is off set. Yours for shipping if suitable.  Will even throw in a couple of set screws! 

[jebbear 377]

2 hours ago, WHX21 said:

On that attachments pedal Jeb I probaly have a couple I will never use. I can check to see if the hole is off set. Yours for shipping if suitable.  Will even throw in a couple of set screws! 

That would be greatly appreciated! Thank-You! I have to run today, but let me know what would cover it and I'll be glad to forward to you.

[jebbear 377]

7 hours ago, Sarge said:

The relays can also handle the current better versus relying on the mechanical contacts

Thanks for the input Sarge. I seriously thought about going that route but then considered that this setup has worked for about 52 years so if I can make it last another 52, then it will be the next guys problem! Thanks for the suggestion, I do agree with what you are saying though.

Edited December 2, 2018 by jebbear

[953 nut 55,874]

On 11/27/2018 at 10:30 PM, jebbear said:

Primary wire routing. Does anyone know which path the primary wire (the "red" one in my photos) was originally as designed supposed to take from the "I" terminal of the switch to the coil?

On my 1055 and 953s the fuel line and ignition primary wire are routed around the lower side of the engine fan shroud. The clips that hold them are bolted to the engine.

[jebbear 377]

Haven't accomplished much lately on this project other than some minor tweeking and little stuff. With the weather changing and my lack of painting facilities for what little bit that is left to paint, not much new. I did however start to tear into the mower deck to get an idea of what all is going to need done over the winter. It definitely has some major issues that will keep me busy for a while. Here are a few "before" photos of what I have to work with, which is an RM-366 rear discharge 36" deck:

Here are a couple of the overall deck...

 

...and one from the underside. I know, not very clean, but since I kind of knew this project was coming up, an example of "rode hard and put away wet"! This entire shell has multiple rot issues (note the large sheet metal patch in mid section above blades under front roller). I do have another entire deck shell to work with which is in pretty FAIR condition, at least no total rust through, which is the one I will be working with. I acquired it at the big show a number of years ago and has been in storage ever since. Would love to find another one in the same NOS condition that @RedRanger has of his RM-367 in the photo gallery, but not waiting for any miracles!

 

And a few more of various other details, which show some of the modifications that I made back in 1986, which overall have performed rather well. Note the front roller (the rear one also in the above photo), where I had previously eliminated the original pin & clip assembly due to excessive slop and wear, and replaced with a 1/2" bolt which I had bored on the lathe, drilled a port, and installed a grease zerk fitting in the end. Also pressed a couple of new bronze bearings in the roller(s), and brazed a nut on the opposite end of the deck mounting bracket for easy removal if necessary. Surprisingly, these things were still functioning very well with very little wearout after all of these years, so I'll probably just put new bearings in and duplicate the process again.

 

This is a photo of the modified hanger assembly and brackets from the original restore back in 1986. I remember back then, this whole thing was pretty much worn beyond any acceptable condition, so I basically started from scratch, turned a whole new #6592 pivot pin with modifications, installed a combination of bronze bearings and collars between it and the hanger and drag link assembly, and hoped for the best! Again, it actually performed fairly well through the years, but would like to come up with something better this time around. Anyone have any ideas of a better design? Looking for some new ideas of how you guys may have modified or beefed up this assembly on similar decks. I really have always had very little faith in Wheel Horse's original design by totally suspending the entire weight of this deck on only the (2) 1/8" wide edges of steel in this assembly, with very little bearing surface, and not expecting it to wear out. This is probably my number one concern on this go around, trying to fabricate something that will exceed the original design and at least outlast me! At a minimum, I'll probably at least turn a bunch of new parts on the lathe and come up with something similar to what I originally did.

 

The quick hitch assembly is also totally out of round and worn egg shaped at the mount shoulders, so I'll probably just start from scratch and turn a new one & fabricate the brackets and weld them on. One other issue on this piece is the cast pulley, where the ball bearings are pressed into the pulley casting. They are not "sloppy" loose in the pulley but only slightly loose by a couple of thousandths, but they have lost their press fit in the pulley casting, and with a little shaking just fall out. I don't believe the wear is severe enough to warrant re-boring the pulley either to an oversized bearing or installation of any type of sleeve bushing, but not exactly sure yet. Thinking it may be minimal enough to try some of the Loctite retainer such as 640 (not sure yet which one to use as they make several) and re-seat the bearings in that. Seems to have pretty good success rate of what I have read. Anyone have any ideas or experience with this stuff?

 

That's about all for now, as you can see I've got a lot of lathe work and fabrication work ahead of me to keep me busy all winter. Probably have a lot of questions and get into more details as I attack each piece individually.

[jebbear 377]

Hey everybody! Sorry for disappearing again for a while, but again, other priorities. No I haven't quit this project yet, or the forum (and don't plan on it), but haven't accomplished very much since my last post. I'm still pursuing that unofficial title of the world record for longest restoration project ! Think I got a shot at it?? Seems like ever since i started this thing, I've been getting hammered with one unanticipated thing after another around the homestead. Been spending my latest time trying to imitate being a plasterer (believe me it's a POOR imitation) by repairing a large section of my living room ceiling that collapsed after a major roof leak late last year. I'd rather stick with fixing Wheel Horses anyday, but the Mrs. was getting a little tired of the post jacks holding the ceiling up in the middle of the living room!  Almost done with that, but not quite. Anyway, back to the Wheel Horse that has patiently been waiting.

 

Just to catch everyone up on my project, last week we had a sunny day here when the temp hit 60, so I finally got a chance to end the dilemma that had peaked my frustration level a while back. Remember the paint lifting on the rear wheels? Perfect day outdoors to get that problem solved. Thanks @Achto for the previous painting advice. I went with the plan of stripping them back down, priming with etching primer, priming over that with the Nason 2K primer, then final painting with the quart can of rustoleum through a spray gun. I think it worked out pretty well, at least NO MORE WRINKLES!

Now I just need to wait for that eternity for this Rustoleum paint to adequately cure out (if that's possible) and take them back to the tire shop to get my old worn tires remounted along with the new inner tubes that I bought.

 

Next crisis solved was the deal with the worn shaft hole in the attachment pedal as previously discussed. I went with the plan of forming a piece of 0.010" shim stock and inserted into the worn pedal hole. Fits like a glove, absolutely zero slop, just hope it lasts. Thanks again everyone for the tips!

 

You may notice in the above photos, I also needed to fabricate a new 6398 trip lever due to wear on the shaft pin...

... and a new 5385 link (see top photo). And since you probably know me by now, all new bronze bearings installed in all pivot and rotation points.

 

I also had to do a pretty easy repair on the 2179 height control rod that had a lot of wear on the hook end. Rather than make a new one, I just brazed up the original and filed back into profile. I have a photo of the before, but sorry forgot to take an after shot before mounting on the tractor, but I think you all get the idea.

 

As far as work on the deck goes, still haven't had a chance to get into the heart of the thing yet, just a few little odds and ends that I'll save for another post. I did get the deck shell stripped in the electrolysis tank, had to do half at a time even using my wife's largest plastic storage bin as a tank . Need to do a little "bodywork" on that when I get a chance, so I'll get some photos up then.

 

So again, I apologize for not staying regular with this thing and mostly for not even having the opportunity to follow a lot of the other members recent posts. Looks like at a glance, I've been missing out on some really neat stuff and great projects that others have undertaken. I really hope to change all of this if I can get back on track.

[Achto 27,820]

Rims look great!! Patients is a must with Rustoleum, a good paint just takes for ever to set up. Looks like your making some good progress.

[Sarge 3,463]

I think the thing is looking great - the mod to the pedal should outlast you and next generation easily, so I wouldn't sweat it and doubt it would ever break. I hate trying to cure modern paints, still trying to stick with single stage enamels and hardeners as long as they are still available - not exactly into watching paint dry or easily scraping it off due to incomplete curing. Modern urethane paints are nice, but I hate the price tag and in my opinion, they don't stand up to hard use nearly as well.

 

Sarge

[Pullstart 63,107]

It’s looking great, Jeb!  Best of luck with your living room repairs, I understand that feeling / pressure to accomplish those projects!

[jebbear 377]

 

Although nothing major, here are a couple more pics as promised of some of the recent odds and ends that I was able to knock out on this project in recent days.

 

Stripped, cleaned, and primed the gear covers for the mower deck...

 

Also had to do some repairs on the quadrant height control and plunger pin on the mower deck. First pics show a before and after of the original wallowed out holes where the pin engages in the height control, so I just made a repair by brazing up the holes and filing back to profile. Not perfect, but way better than when I started.

 

To go along with that repair, I had to fabricate a new plunger pin on the lathe where it was worn from engaging in the quadrant. I still need to repair the hole in the deck wheel support assembly where the plunger rides in the tube. Not decided yet, but I may make a little partial sleeve guide as such and weld it into the tube to give the plunger a little better guide to hopefully minimize future wear.

 

Next I fabricated a new idler arm assembly for the deck drive idler pulley as well as a new R.H. mounting plate and pin for the deck. I had to slightly modify the idler arm from the original by making the "barrel" part of the arm slightly oversize (O.D.) in order to accept a new bronze bearing as the original was not large enough in diameter to allow reaming for the bearing installation and still have some wall left. In hindsight I probably should have made it even a little larger yet so I could drill and tap in a grease zerk since this has always been a common wear area for me, but after finishing this one just decided it wasn't worth making another one. Maybe when this one wears out, I'll do that for the next guy . I did use an Oilite bearing so it does have some lubrication. The pulley is a NOS one that I found on the auction site.

 

And finally, cleaned and primed the 6594 pulley for the deck. I installed new ball bearings in the pulley, but ran into a slight issue with the casting as the original bearings must have spun slightly in the pulley casting causing some very slight wear as the bearings did not tightly press into the pulley. They were a snug fit, not at all sloppy, but also not a tight press fit. I tried some Loctite 620 sleeve retainer that I had on hand, but it never quite seemed to set up (too old I assume), so I just fell back on the old JB weld and hopefully with the bolt in place nothing will move. Right now the bearings seems good and tight.

 

That's about all for now. I guess my request for ideas to modify the deck hanger assembly that I posted in the implements section didn't get any results so I guess that I'm on my own on that one. Oh well, didn't hurt to ask I guess.

Edited March 9, 2019 by jebbear

[ebinmaine 68,464]

You do some really fantastic work Jeb

[jebbear 377]

Thanks Eric. I try to but doesn't always turn out that way!

[ebinmaine 68,464]

25 minutes ago, jebbear said:

Thanks Eric. I try to but doesn't always turn out that way!

Nothing wrong with trying twice.

We have a great appreciation for the attention to detail you have and also the obvious strong desire to rebuild and reuse what you have on hand.

[Sarge 3,463]

On thinner cast parts you can bore them out slightly and make your own sleeve bearing from brass stock. The other solution is to clean up the bore on a 4-jaw lathe chuck, then turn a chunk of brass stock to press fit into the new finished bore size - then, bore out the bushing to fit onto a new shaft with a slightly smaller diameter. The brass works great as a bearing and will stop the steel-on-steel wear problems. Overall, the use of brass bearings is far better than steel/steel with less wear over time. Many older straight trucks used brass liner bushings on the solid front axles for the kingpins - they were a press fit and had to be finish honed to fit the pin into them tightly.

 

With a little creative lathe work - nearly anything can be repaired with some time and scrap material.

 

Sarge

[jebbear 377]

On 3/10/2019 at 10:13 AM, Sarge said:

The other solution is to clean up the bore on a 4-jaw lathe chuck

Unfortunately Sarge, this is the ONE component of my lathe setup that I am sorely missing. When I acquired this LeBlond years ago, it only came with a 3-jaw and I can't count the times that I wish I had a 4-jaw. It sure limits what I can do with this thing, at least accurately anyway. I have kind of been looking to find one somewhere (affordable), but it seems all of the ones I come across are bringing more than what my entire lathe is worth. If you know anyone that has one to fit a 13" LeBlond Regal, 1940 Model round head, who is willing to part with it for a reasonable price, I would definitely be interested.

[jebbear 377]

I just ran into an issue while doing some preliminary planning for my RM-366 deck for this project. Knowing that it needed (2) new deck gauge wheels, I did some searching on-line and found numerous listings for the Toro replacement wheels #110506. Several of the listings show this as a replacement for the #6749 which is my original and is NLA. Long story short, I found a couple of these locally and went ahead and purchased. Now that I have them home, I see that they are slightly larger than my originals: #110506 is 6" x 1.75" and the orig #6749 is 5.5" x 1.50". My fault for not doing a THOROUGH research before buying and just ASSUMED (I know...) that they would be a direct replacement. I dug into some old posts here on the forum and found several instances where others have encountered the same thing and looks like some guys may have used these instead. But the threads I found didn't have any follow-up info as to whether or not they were actually used and how well this replacement has actually worked out.

 

Since my wheel shaft pins on the deck are also going to need replaced due to excessive wear, it is no big deal to just turn new ones a little bit longer to accommodate the thicker hub size and turn a new slot for the e-ring. I can't really see anything other as to why they wouldn't work with this modification other than the deck would ride about 1/4" higher from the ground due to the overall wheel diameter. I do notice that they would stick out slightly past the edge of the deck due to the added width, but don't really know if that is an issue. Just wondering if any of you have made this replacement and whether or not they actually worked out? Curious if there are any spacing or other issues where the larger wheels would interfere with other components either on the deck or tractor. I actually kind of like the larger wheels which even have grease fittings already installed which is a plus, and really don't want to go back on the hunt for another set in my size which I think would still be available at TSC or other farm stores. Thoughts anyone??