'68 Raider 12 Resto

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

Funny thing is, 'gun"painting tractors and equipment was my very first job out of highschool, at the old local IH/CC/NH dealership back home in WV, I used the pre-mixed dealer paints back then, Jeff.

[WHX?? 49,503]

3 hours ago, Achto said:

original set screw would then become the second/back up screw

Yup my thoughts

 

3 hours ago, Achto said:

CNC guy is kind of a slacker though

I'll have to have a word with him then!

 

3 hours ago, Achto said:

tranny & a rebuild kit for the tranny you have Jim

Yah probably should have as I won't need full length keys for a future planned trailer queen. What Kind of shape are the existing ways on your axles?

[Achto 27,920]

6 hours ago, WHX14 said:

What Kind of shape are the existing ways on your axles?

 

My axles?.... Well all they need is to have the key ways and the hole welded shut, true them back up on the lathe, then cut new key ways on the mill. So you know, about average. 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2018 by Achto

[Achto 27,920]

My last post showed the condition of the axles for this project. This weekend I had a chance to make the repairs on them. First weld up the damaged key ways and unwanted through hole.

 

True the axle back up on the lathe.

 

Cut a new full length key way on the mill.

 

 Job done, easy as that. 

 

Finally was able to start assembly, one item on the list was the hydro pump. A Century Fox pump made by Hien Werner. Unlike the HY pumps made for Wheel Horse this pump needs to be spun clock wise, so it will drive off of the fly wheel side instead of the PTO side of the engine.

 

So I have the axles done, I should have the transmission back together right?  Well after some one wrecks a couple of seals, assembly was kinda brought to a halt. This is kinda depressing as I could have had it put back together. Oh well, I got it this far.     Sorry for the blurry pic.

 

With the transmission out of the picture I just moved on to assembling a few other things. Not quite looking like a tractor but it is heading in the right direction.

 

Edited March 14, 2018 by Achto

[PeacemakerJack 10,742]

Wow Dan—that is looking great!  I like the accent colors on the engine and pump.  This project is coming along nicely.  When will your new seals be in so that you can finish the rear end assembly?

[Achto 27,920]

13 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

 When will your new seals be in so that you can finish the rear end assembly?

 

Not sure, I'm going to order them today from Toro. Hopefully I will have them by the weekend.

[WHX?? 49,503]

I have a full set of seals here Dan if you need one. That small 5/8 input shaft seal can be a bugger to get in and I wrecked one my first try!  Let us know what you decided to do with the hubs as @ebinmaine is might be facing the same axle/hub  problem.

 

Certainly didn't waste any time getting that shroud lettered and stickered!

[classiccat 548]

On 2/20/2018 at 12:05 PM, Achto said:

 

I used their A7019 hardener, 16:1 mix. I've had some issues mixing brands in the past, this left me with no one to blame but me for the out come. So now I stick with one brand from start to finish. There will be an exception to that rule on the sheet metal as Vansickle does not offer a urethane fill & sand primer. Some don't like to wet sand urethane primer (me included) but I like it because it does not shrink over time.

 

Here is a link to their acrylic enamel line up. http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tta.html

This is their alkyd enamel line up. http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html 

 

My apologies for bumping an older post. 

 

That 7019 hardener doesn't appear to contain isocyanates... intriguing since I've pretty much thrown-in the towel for using hardeners due to their toxicity...

 

I'll have to study-up on the other components to see if there's a catch!

 

[Achto 27,920]

Due to a parts deficit I was unable to do any assembly this weekend. Instead I worked on the weights for the front of the tractor. I have some 8x8x3" counter weights laying around, they weight about 50lbs, but this size was hard to work with.

 

I took one of these blocks and cut it in half to make two 4x8x3" blocks.

 

I then made a bracket to mount it to the tractor. This bracket was made from a piece of 1/4x2" flat stock.

 

 I took the two 4x8x3" blocks, drilled my mounting holes and soften the edges up a little  with a grinder. Here's a pic with every thing mocked up. I'm hoping that this will be enough to hold the front end down while plowing.

 

Hopefully I can make more progress on the assembly next weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 19, 2018 by Achto

[JimmyJam 542]

Wow! Looking good so far!

[PeacemakerJack 10,742]

That is looking great Dan!  Are you planning to paint those red when finished? 

 

I think those hose will work well to keep your ‘horse’ from bucking you off...

[Achto 27,920]

2 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Are you planning to paint those red when finished? 

 

Yep, I thought that I could put the spray gun away on this project but it looks like I will have to get it out one more time.

[Coulter Caleb 532]

Looking good Dan! Can't wait to plow some dirt with you this summer.Now that I'm on the forum, I can follow your projects more closely.

[cpete1 332]

On ‎3‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 9:44 PM, Achto said:

I took one of these blocks and cut it in half to make two 4x8x3" blocks.

How did you do that ?  Band saw?

[Achto 27,920]

11 minutes ago, cpete1 said:

How did you do that ?  Band saw?

 

Yes sir, about a 20min wait to cut all the way through.

[Achto 27,920]

 

I was liking how my weights were turning out but I did not like the fact that mounting nuts would be sticking way out in front of them. I was discussing this fact with my friend Bob (owner of the motorcycle shop in town) and said it would be nice if I had a way to counter sink the nuts into the blocks. " Well" he says, "I don't have a cutting tool big enough to do what you want but, if you want to come down Sat I'll let you play with the rotary table on the mill". I had no idea what a rotary table was or how it would help me out but I was anxious to learn. I thought that some here would enjoy a little walk through my experience with this new to me tool. 

 

As with any machining process set up is very important. First step was to find center on the rotary table. To do this you move the table until it looks close to center by eye, then I used a coaxial indicator to find exact center. The indicator is chucked into the quill and the gauge part is held still with catch bars. With this set up you then turn the mill on and adjust your X (left / right) & Y (in / out) axis until the needle on the gauge holds perfectly still. Then the X & Y axis's get locked.

 

Now that the rotary table was centered I chucked a drill bit into the quill that was the same size as the hole in my weight and used it to line the part up while I clamped it down. Close enough right? NOPE. Now install the indicator back into the mill and use a hammer to tap the block around until the needle on the meter stops moving again. Now the hole in my part was perfectly aligned with the quill.

 

Now it's almost time to cut a counter sunk hole.  I wanted my hole to be 1 1/8", my cutting tool was 1/2". I did the math and figured out how far I would need to move the X axis on the mill to achieve this size hole. Then moved the Y axis ( up / down) and then rotated the table to make a light cut so I could check my hole size. Once I was happy with the O.D. measurement of the hole then it was just a matter of moving the Y axis to make deeper cuts then rotate the table, then repeat, repeat, etc.  until I had achieve the depth that I wanted. After the hole was cut I used a round off bit to chamfer the edge on the hole. 

 

After one hole was done the entire process was repeated to cut the second hole.  Hope you didn't mind my little walk through. Here's the finished part.

 

With this part done I bolted the weights to the bracket and the welded the mounting bolts to the bracket. This way I won't have to try to hold the bolts while I mounting the weights. Counter sinking the holes may have been unnecessary but I sure had fun learning &  I think that it looks much better with the mounting nuts recessed.  Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do with the large holes in the rear weight.

 

Today while I was assembling I came to a point where my motorcycle jack kept getting in my way. The lift arms are wider than the tractor frame and interfere when install some parts. This was an issue that I was going to address after my last build but didn't. Well today I had enough of dealing with it so I took some scraps and made a Wheel Horse adapter for my motorcycle jack. It turned out pretty well plus it gave me another 3" of lift. Tabs on the side hold it from moving on the jack, tabs on top hold the tractor from falling off of the adapter. For now I laid rags over it to protect the paint until I get a chance to glue some rubber down on it.

 

Enough machining and fab for this post, I did actually make some progress on my tractor also.

 

I chose to stop at this point because I want to do some wiring before I continue farther. Need to pick up a 22NF battery so that I can get my cables made.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2018 by Achto

[WHX?? 49,503]

Out freaking standing Dan! 

[Joshn569 273]

Thumbs up! Looking good 👍 nice job on those weights

 

[PeacemakerJack 10,742]

That is gonna be one beauty of a plow rig!  Thanks for the tutorial on the machine work as well.  

[ebinmaine 68,889]

5 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

That is gonna be one beauty of a plow rig!  Thanks for the tutorial on the machine work as well.  

Awesome work sir!

[Pullstart 63,205]

On ‎3‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 8:49 PM, Achto said:

With the transmission out of the picture I just moved on to assembling a few other things. Not quite looking like a tractor but it is heading in the right direction.

 

 

 

Probably a silly question, but how do you assemble painted bolts and washers without marring them up?  Not quite looking like a tractor?  This looks like you could win first place in a show! 

[Achto 27,920]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

Probably a silly question, but how do you assemble painted bolts and washers without marring them up?

2 light coats of paint maximum when you paint the bolts / nuts, if the paint is too thick it will chip. Don't let the socket touch the washer. Another thing that helps is a 6 point flank drive socket. These used to be a Snap-On exclusive but other companies have picked up on it too. I learned to use flank drives when I was wrenching on Harleys, (heaven for bid you chip a chrome on nut some guys bike ).  If all this fails, well then you just touch them up with a brush after they're tight.

 

Thanks for the complement on the appearance. Looking forward to putting this ole girl to work soon.

Edited March 27, 2018 by Achto

[WHX?? 49,503]

 Yah unruly bikers have been known to kill for less!

I cover the bolt/washer with a light clean shop rag.

[ebinmaine 68,889]

A couple decades ago I knew a fellow who was doing a body off restoration on a early 60s Vette. I seem to remember hard plastic inserts that would be put into a 6 point socket of the next size up from what you actually needed. Never tried to use them myself but it seemed like a decent idea for low to medium torque situations.

 

I'll have to remember that shop rag trick.

[Chris G 3,296]

Looking really good so far