kpinnc 12,910 #22751 Posted January 15 On 1/11/2025 at 5:32 PM, kpinnc said: Took a while to clean that wheel up, but those Deestones are the hardest tire to mount up I've ever attempted. I finally gave up and will take them to a tire shop. Got my tires mounted up. One side painted and mounted. They look good, but they are very small. I had read they ran a little on the small side, but I didn't realize just how small they are. No complaints other than how hard they are to put on. They won't come off the wheels for a long time, that is for certain. At least not by me doing it. 10 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 853 #22752 Posted January 16 On 1/15/2018 at 10:28 AM, Ed Kennell said: Ok, maybe this will get us back on topic. Today I made a safety light and pole for the 312 plow tractor . Well, I guess that puts me back on topic as well! (albeit a temporary mount)  5 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 712 #22753 Posted January 16 (edited) I didn’t do anything to the tractors, just picked up some of the parts lot I bought from Eric, @ebinmaine. At some point, I’ll get the last bit. Maybe this spring once it’s warmer. The ideas are a flowing though. I got bit by a horse😁 Edited January 16 by MainelyWheelhorse 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 435 #22754 Posted January 16 1 hour ago, kpinnc said: Got my tires mounted up. One side painted and mounted. They look good, but they are very small. I had read they ran a little on the small side, but I didn't realize just how small they are. No complaints other than how hard they are to put on. They won't come off the wheels for a long time, that is for certain. At least not by me doing it. Size? Brand? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22755 Posted January 16 5 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: I didn’t do anything to the tractors, just picked up some of the parts lot I bought from Eric, @ebinmaine. At some point, I’ll get the last bit. Maybe this spring once it’s warmer. The ideas are a flowing though.🙂 Great to see you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 712 #22756 Posted January 16 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Great to see you! You too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,910 #22757 Posted January 16 1 hour ago, Easton Rich said: Size? Brand? Deestone 23×10.50-12. But not even close to the claimed size. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22758 Posted January 16 7 hours ago, kpinnc said: But not even close to the claimed size. That's why I've refused to buy any. I've been eyeing BKT TR315 Trenchers for years. Just got some on a great sale. They won't be mounted on anything for a while but the price was too good. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,217 #22759 Posted January 16 . Had to look them up. Quite a price range on them, assuming the internet adds were all referencing the same product. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianKoch 335 #22760 Posted January 16 Scored a swath of original manuals for the ‘76 C-160 on Nice to have a paper reference in a digital world. 5 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22761 Posted January 16 50 minutes ago, BrianKoch said: Scored a swath of original manuals for the ‘76 C-160 on Nice to have a paper reference in a digital world. Agreed. Niiiiice score! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,872 #22762 Posted January 18 (edited) I’ve been bringing a BD-4263 Doxer blade back to life (1963). It’s almost ready, needing only a centering rod in the front hitch. That said, the heavy usage this plow has seen has put a lot of wear on the quadrant pivot. If the plow proves useful, I’ll go after tightening that up but I the meantime, it’ll do. Here it is so far, ready to be tested with 5-8” of snow forecast for Sunday night into Monday. I’m using a plow mount bracket intended for long frame tractors instead of the original separate bolt-on angle irons. The ¾” rod with pinned spacers through the tangs lets the narrower bracket hold the wide-ended frame. Putting the rod through the original mounting holes, however, positioned the plow too far rearward so that when the plow was angled the skids interfered with the front wheels (or vice versa?). This was made worse by the slop in the quadrant pivot. To move the plow forward to roughly where it would be with the “factory” mount setup, I’ve welded extensions (blue arrow) to the tangs and made new mounting holes 3” aft of the original holes. I left the original holes (red arrow) so the change is reversable. Voila, no tire/skid interference. New ⅝” shaft skids with bushings to fill the ¾” skid mounts and other new hardware. A lever and rod were not with the plow when I got it so I made new. The new angle control lever is a straightened 8-speed shift lever welded to a new base. Rod is Heim-jointed. This model was the last to have the foot-operated quadrant release. Edited January 18 by Handy Don 8 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,283 #22763 Posted January 18 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: I’ve been bringing a BD-4263 Doxer blade back to life (1963). It’s almost ready, needing only a centering rod in the front hitch. That said, the heavy usage this plow has seen has put a lot of wear on the quadrant pivot. If the plow proves useful, I’ll go after tightening that up but I the meantime, it’ll do. Here it is so far, ready to be tested with 5-8” of snow forecast for Sunday night into Monday. I’m using a plow mount bracket intended for long frame tractors instead of the original separate bolt-on angle irons. The ¾” rod with pinned spacers through the tangs lets the narrower bracket hold the wide-ended frame. Putting the rod through the original mounting holes, however, positioned the plow too far rearward so that when the plow was angled the skids interfered with the front wheels (or vice versa?). This was made worse by the slop in the quadrant pivot. To move the plow forward to roughly where it would be with the “factory” mount setup, I’ve welded extensions (blue arrow) to the tangs and made new mounting holes 3” aft of the original holes. I left the original holes (red arrow) so the change is reversable. Voila, no tire/skid interference. New ⅝” shaft skids with bushings to fill the ¾” skid mounts and other new hardware. A lever and rod were not with the plow when I got it so I made new. The new angle control lever is a straightened 8-speed shift lever welded to a new base. Rod is Heim-jointed. This model was the last to have the foot-operated quadrant release. I like the look of that Heim there Don. I might look into that on mine since my rod has seen better days. Tonight I got the head back on and the pump filled and bled. She starts right up, doesn't belch flames out the side of the head, and the plow goes up and down. Since we have 4-6 projected for Sunday I'll take it for now. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,141 #22764 Posted January 18 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: I’ve been bringing a BD-4263 Doxer blade back to life (1963). It’s almost ready, needing only a centering rod in the front hitch. That said, the heavy usage this plow has seen has put a lot of wear on the quadrant pivot. If the plow proves useful, I’ll go after tightening that up but I the meantime, it’ll do. Here it is so far, ready to be tested with 5-8” of snow forecast for Sunday night into Monday. I’m using a plow mount bracket intended for long frame tractors instead of the original separate bolt-on angle irons. The ¾” rod with pinned spacers through the tangs lets the narrower bracket hold the wide-ended frame. Putting the rod through the original mounting holes, however, positioned the plow too far rearward so that when the plow was angled the skids interfered with the front wheels (or vice versa?). This was made worse by the slop in the quadrant pivot. To move the plow forward to roughly where it would be with the “factory” mount setup, I’ve welded extensions (blue arrow) to the tangs and made new mounting holes 3” aft of the original holes. I left the original holes (red arrow) so the change is reversable. Voila, no tire/skid interference. New ⅝” shaft skids with bushings to fill the ¾” skid mounts and other new hardware. A lever and rod were not with the plow when I got it so I made new. The new angle control lever is a straightened 8-speed shift lever welded to a new base. Rod is Heim-jointed. This model was the last to have the foot-operated quadrant release. Looks pretty good Don. Glad to see those new welding skills are getting used. No added weight or tire chains? It should push OK but reversing with the blade raised, steering with the blade angled and anything with ice or packed snow, there will be some traction loss 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 712 #22765 Posted January 18 (edited) Today, I still did nothing to my 312 or 308. Just cleaning and some disassembly of the engine I got from @ebinmaine which some of you saw in the Popeye post. I do have a question though, what is the difference between the M8-12 and the K series Kohler's gasket wise. The gaskets I came across today were due for a replacement. On Amazon I can find the K series gasket kit and sometimes it says M8-12 and sometimes not. Is there a major difference? As of right now I only need both mounting surfaces of the carb, and the oil fill adapter. TIA! Edited January 18 by MainelyWheelhorse 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22766 Posted January 18 7 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: Today, I still did nothing to my 312 or 308. Just cleaning and some disassembly of the engine I got from @ebinmaine which some of you saw in the Popeye post. I do have a question though, what is the difference between the M8-12 and the K series Kohler's gasket wise. The gaskets I came across today were due for a replacement. On Amazon I can find the K series gasket kit and sometimes it says M8-12 and sometimes not. Is there a major difference? As of right now I only need both mounting surfaces of the carb, and the oil fill adapter. TIA! Most gaskets will be the same. The "kits" vary a LOT in content. Likely you'll be covered. It might be worth checking with one of our vendors to see if they have a kit. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,283 #22767 Posted January 18 7 hours ago, wallfish said: Looks pretty good Don. Glad to see those new welding skills are getting used. No added weight or tire chains? It should push OK but reversing with the blade raised, steering with the blade angled and anything with ice or packed snow, there will be some traction loss I don't add weight or chains to the front of mine, and usually I have the most trouble trying to turn while going forward with the blade straight. I just wants to dig in and pull the whole tractor along whatever path it is already cutting. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22768 Posted January 18 8 hours ago, adsm08 said: like the look of that Heim I highly recommend that update. It took ALL the slack out of that portion of movement. Instantly noticeable change. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,872 #22769 Posted January 18 9 hours ago, wallfish said: Looks pretty good Don. Glad to see those new welding skills are getting used. No added weight or tire chains? It should push OK but reversing with the blade raised, steering with the blade angled and anything with ice or packed snow, there will be some traction loss Should have mentioned chains.Yes, there will be chains. In a parts deal with @ebinmaine, came a lightly used 2-link pair with 14” cross chains. After a few mount/unmount tries (😰), I’ve finally got the crosses on one at the right lengths to fit the 6-12s snugly. Now to duplicate that for the other one! The $20 tag sale 30” Linkmaster chain tool has earned its keep! I also have a pair of plastic/concrete 60 Lb wheel weights (destined for the camp tractor). I test mounted them but they protrude about 6” on each side--way too wide for convenient garage parking. 10 hours ago, adsm08 said: I like the look of that Heim there Don. I might look into that on mine since my rod has seen better days. Heims are at both ends. If it wasn’t for the slop in the quadrant pivot, it would feel like a precision machine! For this situation, I used cheap and adequate 7/16” Heims and solid rod (I threaded the ends). I know some folks like all-thread rod (and it definitely would've saved time and effort) but since this will be in compression and tension, I wanted the rod's full diameter for rigidity and I prefer the cleanliness of the smooth surface. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22770 Posted January 18 3 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Heims are at both ends. If it wasn’t for the slop in the quadrant pivot, it would feel like a precision machine! For this situation, I used cheap and adequate 7/16” Heims and solid rod (I threaded the ends). I know some folks like all-thread rod (and it definitely would've saved time and effort) but since this will be in compression and tension, I wanted the rod's full diameter for rigidity and I prefer the cleanliness of the smooth surface. Definitely agreed. @adsm08 Here's what I used. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
702854boy 43 #22771 Posted January 18 I already assisted a broken hub to fully breaking by accidentally tightening the bolt so much that it broke, does anyone have a torque spec or something so that I don't have a Groundhog Day incident. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,744 #22772 Posted January 18 12 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: Today, I still did nothing to my 312 or 308. Just cleaning and some disassembly of the engine I got from @ebinmaine which some of you saw in the Popeye post. I do have a question though, what is the difference between the M8-12 and the K series Kohler's gasket wise. The gaskets I came across today were due for a replacement. On Amazon I can find the K series gasket kit and sometimes it says M8-12 and sometimes not. Is there a major difference? As of right now I only need both mounting surfaces of the carb, and the oil fill adapter. TIA! I just got another gasket kit for a K181 from I Save Tractors. Really like the quality of the gaskets as opposed to the ones I got from Pat's Small engine. Nice steel wafered head gasket. ( not pictured). The only thing I don't like is you don't get any end play shims. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OutdoorEnvy 1,672 #22773 Posted January 18 Well I finished up my 416-8 save. I updated my project thread but here she is with new seat, new LED front lights, and snow plow on for winter weather we might get. Also getting the 312-8 ready for backup 5 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,283 #22774 Posted January 18 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Definitely agreed. @adsm08 Here's what I used. Where did you get it though? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,275 #22775 Posted January 18 6 minutes ago, adsm08 said: Where did you get it though? The rod ends, from McMaster Carr. Bolts, from Bolt Depot. Rod, big box or hardware store. I can get you a precise list Sunday afternoon. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
