Brockport Bill 1,641 #22176 Posted October 23 4 minutes ago, Sodaking27 said: Finally after being sidelined for almost 2 months with ankle and Achilles tendinitis was able to spend a little time working on the C175. Removed all the hoses and lift valve. Rebuilt the lift valve. Discovered the rear finder mounting bracket where it normally breaks was in need of welding. Have a friend who has a welding service and he’s going to stop by one evening to take care of it. did the master hydraulic lift valve job on a c175H last year -- absolute nightmare getting that in and out of that location in hoodstand -- replaced the "O" rings and the 4 hoses -- i still have the wounds on my hands from trying to manipulate the unit into that space and remove and then install the bolts -- Unfortunately i have another c175 h that is leaking fluid from the master valve and have to do that job --UGH !!! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sodaking27 765 #22177 Posted October 23 3 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said: did the master hydraulic lift valve job on a c175H last year -- absolute nightmare getting that in and out of that location in hoodstand -- replaced the "O" rings and the 4 hoses -- i still have the wounds on my hands from trying to manipulate the unit into that space and remove and then install the bolts -- Unfortunately i have another c175 h that is leaking fluid from the master valve and have to do that job --UGH !!! I hear you. The long oval seal was a pain to keep in place when putting back together. Hopefully no leaks when I get it all back together. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,641 #22178 Posted October 23 1 hour ago, Sodaking27 said: I hear you. The long oval seal was a pain to keep in place when putting back together. Hopefully no leaks when I get it all back together. actually i was never able to determine what or where was the leak??????? Was it "O" ring leaking at the piston valve -- or a connection of a hose?? so i just went the $130 to get 4 hoses and also do the O ring replacement -- thinking might as well make it right and not have to do job a second time. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,564 #22179 Posted October 23 @BBQVultureWings just your insight into electrical enhancement , would go handily here , often suggest anything that has helped me out , we all share an interest to common problems , regularly experiment with a cure / improvement , any other electrical grounding insight that could be used on a wheel horse wiring set up ? pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,564 #22180 Posted October 23 @Sodaking27 noting the belt drive idler pulley , original ? come with a very small bearing that , is known for failure / noise / rough , while you are there , might be worth an inspection and a re fit . since going after anything with a bearing , don't even think about not replacing or RE GEASING IT , is that a wanna be HEIM JOINT on that linkage ? use them regularly , anywhere , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22181 Posted October 23 4 hours ago, BBQVultureWings said: Not a bad idea.... Retired Electrician here. I did Primarily Inndustrial Process control work as well as Some commercial & the dreaded residential wiring (dreaded as it is really pretty boring repetitive work mostly lights, light switches & plugs....) I don't have too much trouble with electrical systems & I Certainly do Not know Everything either as there is Always something else to learn... I haven't decided what all accessories or improvements will be added but I like the LEDs because they draw very little current & at 12V DC it can get to be an issue really fast with resistive loads like lights but the LED improvements in recent years have nearly eliminated that problem. By the way I would use NoAlox anti corrosion compound such as Ideal 30-030 or equivalent Rather than dielectric grease Thanks for the suggestion. I did find an interesting difference between the 92 312-8 and the 87 308-8. Apparently sometime between the 308 and the 312 there was a change where the 308 has to be running to use the lights. The 312 doesn’t. The 308 also has an interesting flicker at idle with the lights on. The 312 doesn’t. Probably a connection issue as everything on the 308 is looser. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,123 #22182 Posted October 23 7 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: I did find an interesting difference between the 92 312-8 and the 87 308-8. Apparently sometime between the 308 and the 312 there was a change where the 308 has to be running to use the lights. The 312 doesn’t. The 308 also has an interesting flicker at idle with the lights on. The 312 doesn’t. Probably a connection issue as everything on the 308 is looser. That could be two different electrical systems. Others would be better at explaining that. @Ed Kennell @wallfish 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,955 #22183 Posted October 23 22 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: I did find an interesting difference between the 92 312-8 and the 87 308-8. Apparently sometime between the 308 and the 312 there was a change where the 308 has to be running to use the lights. The 312 doesn’t. The 308 also has an interesting flicker at idle with the lights on. The 312 doesn’t. Probably a connection issue as everything on the 308 is looser. The 308 runs the lights on AC straight from the stator I believe. So RPM would make a difference and only produces power when running. The 312 is going to run that AC to a rectifier/regulator so the power is 12v DC and consistent and connects to the battery The charging stators under the flywheel are different set ups 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22184 Posted October 23 27 minutes ago, wallfish said: The 308 runs the lights on AC straight from the stator I believe. So RPM would make a difference and only produces power when running. The 312 is going to run that AC to a rectifier/regulator so the power is 12v DC and consistent and connects to the battery The charging stators under the flywheel are different set ups Ok, thanks, that makes sense. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,082 #22185 Posted October 23 (edited) 1 hour ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: The 308 also has an interesting flicker at idle with the lights on. I just took a look at the wiring diagram for the 308. It appears that the lights are connected directly to the stator--no regulator or diode. This means alternating current and voltage dependent on the RPM. Edited October 23 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22186 Posted October 24 24 minutes ago, Handy Don said: I just took a look at the wiring diagram for the 308. It appears that the lights are connected directly to the stator--no regulator or diode. This means alternating current and voltage dependent on the RPM. @Handy Don Ok, thanks I figured it would be a bit more direct and bare bones than the 312. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BBQVultureWings 67 #22187 Posted October 24 (edited) 4 hours ago, peter lena said: @BBQVultureWings just your insight into electrical enhancement , would go handily here , often suggest anything that has helped me out , we all share an interest to common problems , regularly experiment with a cure / improvement , any other electrical grounding insight that could be used on a wheel horse wiring set up ? pete I am pretty meticulous about my main Ground connection. If I drill a hole or use an existing hole, I will also scrape away just enough paint for the flat side of the crimp connector (lug) to have clean metal to electrically bond to. I use a good amount of No-Alox (any of those products from Ideal or GB work) The purpose is to eliminate oxidation & corrosion from the disimilar metals reacting with each other over time as current is passing through them & the frame or engine block of our machine. Most of the time it is a bigger concern when joining an aluminium conductor to a lug or to a splice with copper under a split bolt or something like that in a big & older piece of electrical equipment. which, unless you are an electrician, you probably will never see such a thing... Anyway the best thing to do is put the stuff on like somebody else is payin' for it. tighten it down with an appropriate fastener ( meaning: the diameter of your fastener shoud be as close as possible to the same diameter {at a Minimum} of your conductor (wire) for example #3 copper is 0.229 inch so We would thiMk We should use at the very least 0.25 or 1/4" bolt for this connection, BUT let's consider this about the bolt & its diameter inclluding threads, is 1/4", including threads . So, how much material was removed from the round stock to make the threads & the resulting bolt? in this example of 1/4-20 the inner diameter is 0.196 inches. so we lose 0.054 of material. this is now much less than the diameter of our #3 conductor (wire) 0.229 Or that being said, if this is the Main ground, you suggested 3/8" & I DO agree with that because our inner diameter of 3/8-16 is 0.307 inch which is larger than the conductor in ouir example setting.... or say #2 copper is 0.2576 inch so our suggested bolt of 3/8 has an inner diameter of 0.307 inch So the 3/8 bolt will work here as well. Also when making my own cables I use Extra Hard usage SO conductors or welding cable because the insulation is very flexible & Exremely tough stuff. I use the correct type of crimping tool & I also like my Shrink tubing to keep dirt, oils, gasoline, water & other foreign debris out of my crimp connections. Kinda like fuel hoses, when they are brittle & dry, it is time to replace them. Cables Last a Lot Longer than fuel lines do & copper wire is Never cheap. Once in a whlie I will find a welding cable in good condition at a garage sale or swap meet & IF the price is right, I will buy it. So to give a shorter simpler answer to Enhancing a connection, Get some No-Alox anti corrosion compound & apply it to the threads of of your bolt, a dab of it in the barrel of your crimp on lug, the surface you plan on bolting to, the lug & any washers you are gonna use. torque to your desired tightness yet, remember that "Too tight's Broke" (Journeyman Jay....a guy I worked around a lot as an apprentice) & as electricians we have a tendancy to overtighten these connections sometimes. A lot of bolted connections on the machine will leave enough room for a Ground connection. Do As YOU Like. The points I mention are based on my preferences & what TO ME seems like common sense based upon My experience. These are some things to consider when making these connections Permenant, Efficiently & Safely..... I hope that helps. As I get things going on my "Herd", I will try to remember to at least take pictures & maybe even make a video to help the people who are often intimidated by electrical stuff as it can seem like teaching a fish to climb a tree in some cases & The unfamiliar territory factor can be intimidating for anyone with anything. For Moo-Wah, hydro static transmissions are new territory & somewhat intimidating because I am Not familiar with them. Well I tried my best to Not Nerd anyone's eyeballs out with a super long response here today... Just some points I have considered over the years in my experiences which I Hope will be able to help someone. As for improving a wheelhorse set up, I have yet to really tear into a system yet but I will certainly Chime in If I find something that I need to rant or rave about.... not that anyone really cares about opinions because we all know what they say about opinions..... Edited October 24 by BBQVultureWings forgot address a point near the end... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BBQVultureWings 67 #22188 Posted October 24 17 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: I did find an interesting difference between the 92 312-8 and the 87 308-8. Apparently sometime between the 308 and the 312 there was a change where the 308 has to be running to use the lights. The 312 doesn’t. The 308 also has an interesting flicker at idle with the lights on. The 312 doesn’t. Probably a connection issue as everything on the 308 is looser. New owners were most likely inadvertently leaving the lights on & draining the battery & causing complaints with dealers & shops even though it is their own fault for not checking when leaving the machine..... I have done some hairbrained stuff in my time as i Believe we All have.... I have accidently hit the light switch on my 1995 Crapsman LT1000 & I have also left the key in the on position, both incidents drained the battery ... I haven't looked at any schematics for the wiring in the models you mentioned but I would bet they changed the lights to only when running for that reason Which to Moo-Wah, makes good sense & I would actually prefer it to be that way so I dont leave lights on during the day when I am mowing & don't realize I brushed up against the switch or a branch sprung back & hit it or something like that. As for the flicker at idle, that will just be that way because the Higher RPMs are going to increase the output by design. This is Not a Pickup truck alternator & the space available to include that sort of assembly under the flywheel of Any small engine is, well, quite small. that's my best guess & opinion... We all know what they say about opinions.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,564 #22189 Posted October 24 @Sodaking27 noting your ankle tendinitis , hope its better , have a hip replacement coming up , in a few weeks , actually looking forward to it , its a very regular thing today , 1, 1/2 hr operation , up about very shortly afterword . better to get things done than collect them. this aint 1950 , glue a mako lazer set up on you , and the work is spot on , tech / doctor , follows x rays , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22190 Posted October 24 (edited) On today’s episode…. I fixed some of the rattles with some o rings on the 308-8, with the big one being the worn hood hinges. After putting them on twice backwards, I figured it out. Just to realize that the 312’s hinges are and have been for a year and a half backwards🙄🤬And… I attempted to do a more recent profile picture. I might try again tomorrow with that. Edited October 24 by MainelyWheelhorse 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,123 #22191 Posted October 24 There's some engine swapping in the future around here. Cinnamon Horse C160-8 has a ticking I'm not fond of. Also another C160-8 for a future project. Possibly an 8 HP for the BBT. I stopped in to see my small engine repair guy for a minute. Told him what I was looking to do for my two 16 HP Kohlers. Basic mostly stock rebuild but if I can squeeze a couple or five extra HP out, why not? He said he can do everything but turn the crank and may have sources for that. Said he hasn't done one for a while but seemed like he would look forward to messing around with fully rebuildable old iron instead of the disposable garbage he normally does. No balance gears. Milling the head 40 or 50 thousandths. Overbore to be determined... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22192 Posted October 24 (edited) @ebinmaine Hey..while your at it Amazon supercharger or eBay turbo one 😎 I haven’t seen that often. Edited October 25 by MainelyWheelhorse 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,123 #22193 Posted October 24 A supercharger ehh......? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22194 Posted October 24 (edited) It sounds like I’m convincing you…😁 Edited October 24 by MainelyWheelhorse 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,123 #22195 Posted October 25 33 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: It sounds like I’m convincing you…😁 If I was building a "show only" tractor I'd absolutely install a S/C just because..... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 348 #22196 Posted October 25 Still might be fun to bomb around on…, 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,082 #22197 Posted October 25 59 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: A supercharger ehh......? A while back I saw someone in Vermont (?) selling a 520-8 that he’d modded to use a Subaru turbocharger. Video showed it had run at one point. It was a real Rube Goldberg install, though. Maybe he’d planned on a modified class for pulling? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,891 #22198 Posted October 25 (edited) 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: A supercharger ehh......? Ask @fast88pu about turbocchargers. Edited October 25 by Bill D 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BBQVultureWings 67 #22199 Posted October 26 Yesterday the 257 had a Flat so I put some slime in it for the time being.... I hate to use that stuff as it is really messy when changing the tire.... After some slime & some air I put it back on the Tractor & then spun the tire as fast as i could for about 5 minutes to hopefully thoroughly Coat the inside & eliminate the leak.... Today I found some keystock at the big box store today while getting other stuff for other projects that require attention before the "Herd" gets their much Needed Attention. At least I have stuff at the ready when I can escape these other tedious & Not as cool projects.... Hoping for a full day on sunday with Real Progress to share. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,172 #22200 Posted October 26 (edited) Although it might be early.....got the 654 ready for snow plowing duty. Now that leaves are falling the rear discharge deck doesn't work good for leaf pick up so I'm using my 33" Troy Bilt walk behind mower. Changed oil, greased all fittings, removed mower deck & installed plow, installed weights, & upgraded to led lights. Edited October 26 by ML3 1 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
