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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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chip61

Transmission swap complete on the C141. I broke the cardinal rule when buying a hydro, I didn't thoroughly check it out when I bought it. Trans was very slow and weak so I started looking for a replacement. Luckily one came up for sale not far from home-it was off a C121 so it was set up for brakes, which is one feature I really like over the CXX0 series. Works great once I closed the tow valve :roll:

 

Now on to the hydro leaks on the C160. Gonna start with repairing the lift cylinder, then look for other leaks if any.

 

 

 

 

 

20210313_110352.jpg

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ebinmaine
49 minutes ago, chip61 said:

Works great once I closed the tow valve

I might have done that one too...

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Raposo

Lined up a couple of them 

left to right - M20, Briggs 18 twin, M16, Command 15, M12

36468542-EEAB-4BC1-ACFC-922BA61A3764.jpeg

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Raposo

Started tearing the front axle out of this to replace it with a 520H swept forward front axle. 

5EEF3DD9-AA5B-4C92-9A07-06B3ACF102AE.jpeg

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, Raposo said:

Lined up a couple of them 

left to right - M20, Briggs 18 twin, M16, Command 15, M12

36468542-EEAB-4BC1-ACFC-922BA61A3764.jpeg

What series of tractor is that M20 in?

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Raposo
Just now, ebinmaine said:

What series of tractor is that M20 in?

It’s a C175 that had a series 1 in it that went bad and now has a magnum 20, she sounds sexy! 

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, Raposo said:

It’s a C175 that had a series 1 in it that went bad and now has a magnum 20, she sounds sexy! 

I'll bet!!

 

I'd love to see more pictures and information on that one. That's got to be a rugged bugger with that engine in there.

 

@JCM Jim is pretty fond of his big Kohler twins too.

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Raposo
49 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'll bet!!

 

I'd love to see more pictures and information on that one. That's got to be a rugged bugger with that engine in there.

 

@JCM Jim is pretty fond of his big Kohler twins too.

I'll grab you some pictures tonight!

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Stormin

 Finally got some new bushes for starter motors. One on the C-125. One on the C-121 and a spare off the parts Raider 10. It's the bushes at the Bendix end that want replacing. Not exactly the same, but I modified one, fitted it and all is well. I'll do a little thread after I've done the others. Wanted to see how the first one turned out before I did.

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haydendavid380
On 3/14/2021 at 10:31 AM, haydendavid380 said:

Took a couple minutes to swap the dozer blade out for the plow. Flipped around my lift cable which I had installed backwards, and adjusted the clutch rod back a little. She's buzzing around better than ever.

received_440213197286531.jpeg.da1f68052ed6b729c0186dc9df4d1307.jpeg

 

Of course I took off the blade...

 

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squonk

Taking off the plow or raking the stones out of the yard in March will do it every time! :rolleyes:

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Gregor

Snowed here also. I thought maybe I was going to get to try out the double headed snow blower. We got little more than a dusting on top of freezing rain and sleet.

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Horse Newbie

So before I put on my new decals from @Vinylguy I decided to paint my hood and seat pan Rustoleum Regal Red...

The under side of the hood turned out great, but I got some "cracking" on the outside of the hood.

Can someone take a look at these pics and tell me what may have caused it ?

I want to avoid it happening on the seat pan if I can.

Thanks,  Tim (Horse Newbie)

20210314_104504_HDR.jpg

20210315_173723.jpg

20210315_173721.jpg

20210315_173709.jpg

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76c12091520h

 The dreaded Rust-Oleum paint problems, nothing you can do now but take it all off and start over. As far as preventing it from happening again, use only Rust Oleum paint and undercoats, and do not allow the initial coats of color to sit too long before applying the next coats. I've used that stuff on and off for over 35 years with mixed results and no rhyme or reason to the problems that pop up using it ( and I paint cars for a living so I have a little bit of an idea what I'm doing). Maybe if you can tell us EXACTLY what steps you took and every product you used up to this point, somebody can shed some light on it. 

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Jeff-C175
21 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Can someone take a look at these pics and tell me what may have caused it ?

 

I've always presumed that I didn't wait long enough between coats for the previous coat to fully cure.

 

Did you do a second coat?

 

I've had it happen too many times to me also.  I've found that going to very thin first coat and waiting a week before the second coat has better results.

 

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Jeff-C175
19 minutes ago, 76c12091520h said:

do not allow the initial coats of color to sit too long before applying the next coats

 

@Horse Newbie

 

I just looked at the 'structions on the can.

 

"Apply a second coat, or Clear coat, within 1 hour, or after 48 hours"

 

Even if it's 'dry to the touch', it's not cured enough that the solvents in subsequent coats will not 'attack' the previous coats.

 

And... in cooler weather, you need to wait even longer!

 

You  might  not have to take it all off though.  I would let it sit for a week, even maybe set it out in the sun for a day or two, then try wet sanding to smooth it all out.

 

Then wait some more... then spray LIGHT coats within minutes of each other.  Don't wait long enough for the surface to 'flash'.

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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WVHillbilly520H

@Horse Newbie, to me it looks like the paint (or one of it's ingredients) had a reaction to the the base layer, enamel over lacquer or vise versa, and/or the panel temperature (setting in the sun?) while spraying it, I know the Majic brand from TSC is really bad for that waiting too long between coats on the 44" 2stage I did several years ago, the 414 I did last summer I used ACE hardware brand spraybombs.

 

Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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WVHillbilly520H
1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

@Horse Newbie

 

I just looked at the 'structions on the can.

 

"Apply a second coat, or Clear coat, within 1 hour, or after 48 hours"

 

Even if it's 'dry to the touch', it's not cured enough that the solvents in subsequent coats will not 'attack' the previous coats.

 

And... in cooler weather, you need to wait even longer!

 

:text-yeahthat:... :confusion-confused:

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953 nut
44 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Can someone take a look at these pics and tell me what may have caused it ?

With most spray products the second coat needs to be applied within one hour OR after 48 hours at ideal conditions as called out on the container. The wrinkling could be from some contamination (oil, grease residue or even the oils on your hands). Also, it is not a good idea to spray paint both sides of the same item at once. The evaporation of VOCs will cool the metal and may generate problems.

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Horse Newbie
35 minutes ago, 76c12091520h said:

Maybe if you can tell us EXACTLY what steps you took and every product you used up to this point, somebody can shed some light on it. 

I sanded the original paint with 800 grit paper...wiped it down with a clean, soft lent free pair of old undies(just kidding):lol: cloth, blew it off with compressed air, and painted...

Wonder if the compressed air had oil in it...I do have a filter/ drier in my air system.

Or maybe chemical residue from decal removal attempts ????

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Horse Newbie
29 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I've always presumed that I didn't wait long enough between coats for the previous coat to fully cure.

 

Did you do a second coat?

 

I've had it happen too many times to me also.  I've found that going to very thin first coat and waiting a week before the second coat has better results.

 

No, first coat...started by barely misting the surface until it started getting red, then painted as I did the underside of the hood, and that turned out good...

The part that "cracked" was a different can though...

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Horse Newbie
24 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

@Horse Newbie

 

I just looked at the 'structions on the can.

 

"Apply a second coat, or Clear coat, within 1 hour, or after 48 hours"

 

Even if it's 'dry to the touch', it's not cured enough that the solvents in subsequent coats will not 'attack' the previous coats.

 

And... in cooler weather, you need to wait even longer!

 

You  might  not have to take it all off though.  I would let it sit for a week, even maybe set it out in the sun for a day or two, then try wet sanding to smooth it all out.

 

Then wait some more... then spray LIGHT coats within minutes of each other.  Don't wait long enough for the surface to 'flash'.

 

This was the first coat...bummed me out !

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Jeff-C175
Just now, Horse Newbie said:

This was the first coat

 

I don't think I've ever had the crackling happen on a first coat so I'm as poozzled as you are!

 

Did  you wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any residual hand oils or anything?

 

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Horse Newbie
29 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

@Horse Newbie, to me it looks like the paint (or one of it's ingredients) had a reaction to the the base layer, enamel over lacquer or vise versa, and/or the panel temperature (setting in the sun?) while spraying it, I know the Majic brand from TSC is really bad for that waiting too long between coats on the 44" 2stage I did several years ago, the 414 I did last summer I used ACE hardware brand spraybombs.

 

Hood not sitting in sun...do you know whether the original paint was lacquer or enamel ?

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