Pullstart 62,912 #8751 Posted January 18, 2021 2 minutes ago, Achto said: I brought Radpferd in for some surgery today. I went through the transmission when I built him and thought that the gears look ok but obviously I thought wrong. With in the first 10hrs of run time he started rejecting 3rd gear. When ever I would pull on the throttle it would jump out of 3rd. I've had the parts to fix it since Jim's plow day this year but have been too busy to fix the issue. Today, after I disassemble the tranny I see that the 2nd/3rd gear has gotten much worse. The old one next to the new one for comparison. I also noticed that the gear on the input shaft had suffered some damage. After digging through my 5gal pail full of tranny gears, I was lucky enough to find a good input shaft. The one on the right is the one that was in my tranny. The first test ride after reassembly was very satisfactory. While in 3rd I worked the throttle from idle to wide open several times and the shifter stayed right where it belonged. another tractor... I never get tired of looking at. 9 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #8752 Posted January 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: Today I installed my thrust bearings that go between the axle and spindles on my 1994 520H... Ordered them from Lowell at "Wheel Horse Parts and More. I haven't seen a 520H without the thrust bearings. I buy replacement bearings from McMaster-Carr and adjust the end play by adding old or new thrust washers under the snap ring, different thicknesses are available By using a thrust washer on top it helps keep grease in and debris out. Any I've seen had excessive end play and no need to remove material from the axle. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8753 Posted January 18, 2021 49 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said: Usually one has to "grind" the top of the spindled housing to get the torrington bearings to fit and install the snap rings, not always but most times Nope... didn't have to do anymore than take it apart, clean it up and install the new thrust bearings and thrust washers. (Didn't know they were called Torrington Bearings)...learn something new today ! I noticed when I would jack up the front in the past that there seemed to be a little extra spindle sticking up through the axle...thought that maybe my original thrust bearings and washers may have been removed by the previous owner. But that was not the case...thrust bearings and washers were there, bearings wore out... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8754 Posted January 18, 2021 46 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said: My 2 don't have the bearings but there's at least 1/16 -3/32" play to the snap rings. I believe I have seen the bearings on parts diagrams for the 520H. @WVHillbilly520H..... Are you saying your year model did not come with them factory ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,604 #8755 Posted January 18, 2021 35 minutes ago, pullstart said: another tractor... I never get tired of looking at. Hopefully we can get together this summer so that you can get some more seat time on him. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8756 Posted January 18, 2021 18 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I haven't seen a 520H without the thrust bearings. I buy replacement bearings from McMaster-Carr and adjust the end play by adding old or new thrust washers under the snap ring, different thicknesses are available By using a thrust washer on top it helps keep grease in and debris out. Any I've seen had excessive end play and no need to remove material from the axle. Thanks for the comment @lynnmor...Now that you say you use extra thrust washers to keep the grease in and debri out, I am going to see about using the old thrust washers to take up some of the play... By the way... took her out and stretched her legs today...the most since I've been straightening her out. Checked all the curbs on my street and the next street over... Charging at about 14 volts @3400 rpm's All lights and gauges work, hp gauge doesn't even flutter/stays steady It was a nice little ride... can I ask you where/ what do I tighten to keep the throttle lever from creeping down ?...I was thinking the pivot bolt at the bracket where the throttle cable ends at engine . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #8757 Posted January 18, 2021 9 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: can I ask you where/ what do I tighten to keep the throttle lever from creeping down ?...I was thinking the pivot bolt at the bracket where the throttle cable ends at engine . Behind the dash the throttle lever pivots on a rivet or stud, you can smash that rivet to stiffen the movement. I drilled a hole and put a small bolt thru and tightened a locking nut on the other side. Don't modify the engine end. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8758 Posted January 18, 2021 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: Behind the dash the throttle lever pivots on a rivet or stud, you can smash that rivet to stiffen the movement. I drilled a hole and put a small bolt thru and tightened a locking nut on the other side. Don't modify the engine end. Thanks. @lynnmor I'll fix it... I did the washers on the motion control lever at top of transmission/ cleaned , filed flat, like you said and the motion lever at the steering column stays where I put it now...can't thank you, @WVHillbilly520H, @953 nut, @ebinmaine, @squonk, @gwest_ca, and all the other horsemen enough...you fellows have a wealth of knowledge...makes it fun to fix Wheel Horse's... 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,237 #8759 Posted January 18, 2021 10 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Behind the dash the throttle lever pivots on a rivet or stud, you can smash that rivet to stiffen the movement. I drilled a hole and put a small bolt thru and tightened a locking nut on the other side. Don't modify the engine end. Did exactly this and only will add: 1) I had to loosen and lift the dash to get at the rivet, and 2) that using a slender bolt make it easier to adjust later since its a PITA to get at the outboard side once its back in the tractor. Good luck! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8760 Posted January 18, 2021 15 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Did exactly this and only will add: 1) I had to loosen and lift the dash to get at the rivet, and 2) that using a slender bolt make it easier to adjust later since its a PITA to get at the outboard side once its back in the tractor. Good luck! Tell me about it @Handy Don...I just went through the whole tractor(not a restore), getting her up to snuff. Not looking forward to taking it apart again !... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,237 #8761 Posted January 18, 2021 38 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Tell me about it @Handy Don...I just went through the whole tractor(not a restore), getting her up to snuff. Not looking forward to taking it apart again !... Since you haven't started yet....two more thoughts: 3) I used a Dremel to gently grind off the rivet head instead of a drill (and i put rags around to catch the grindings), and 4) the bolt I used was unthreaded where it went through the mechanism (you could also use a sleeve bushing) to make sure the thin metal of the lever and bracket don't fall into, and get worn by, a threaded bolt plus I was very careful as it came apart to note the order and placement of the friction and spacing washers--the little buggers were ready to scatter as soon as they were free but I'd taped the rascals together! (The thing was never intended for disassembly!) I feel your pain on having it all buttoned up and having to re-open it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #8762 Posted January 18, 2021 6 hours ago, Handy Don said: I feel your pain on having it all buttoned up and having to re-open it. Tell me about, my boy's 1200 Cub Cadet Quietline, those engine are truly a PITA to remove/install. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8763 Posted January 18, 2021 @WVHillbilly520H, @lynnmor and others...feel free to jump in with any suggestions or tips. I am trying to remove my throttle lever assembly from the dash to tighten up the pivot point on the throttle lever assembly so that my throttle will stay where I set it. (Right now it wants to creep back down) How do I remove the rubber/ plastic tip on the throttle lever without tearing it up ? Any tips or methods to suggest ? Tim ( Horse Newbie ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
76c12091520h 3,623 #8764 Posted January 18, 2021 Should pull right off, just give it a steady pull and maybe wiggle it a little bit. If that doesn't work, place a vice grip on the shaft behind the knob (leave it loose on the shaft) and give it a little tap. A nail bar will work also. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,373 #8765 Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) 29 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: @WVHillbilly520H, @lynnmor and others...feel free to jump in with any suggestions or tips. I am trying to remove my throttle lever assembly from the dash to tighten up the pivot point on the throttle lever assembly so that my throttle will stay where I set it. (Right now it wants to creep back down) How do I remove the rubber/ plastic tip on the throttle lever without tearing it up ? Any tips or methods to suggest ? Tim ( Horse Newbie ) I haven't ever removed mine, just take out the battery reach in there with Vise-Grips over the rivet and apply pressure repeat if nessacary I prefer mine a bit "snug" for resistance. Edited January 18, 2021 by WVHillbilly520H 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8766 Posted January 18, 2021 Thanks @WVHillbilly520H...I'll give that a try... Tim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #8767 Posted January 18, 2021 I never had a problem pulling the knob off, they even fall off on their own. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,155 #8768 Posted January 18, 2021 Decided it was time to hook up a light on the back of Big OLy. I don't know why. We don't get snow and since I'm home now I can plow in daylight. What the heck. Got this nifty little LED light from @rjg854 and a light bracket doing nothing. I got some nifty foam gasket material for a boiler laying around. A little trim and it fits right into the battery box! 10 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8769 Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) 20210118_144250.mp4 2 hours ago, lynnmor said: I never had a problem pulling the knob off, they even fall off on their own. I probably wasn't holding my mouth right...either that or I don't have the touch. I got the rubber part off without tearing it up, but the hard plastic under the rubber wasn't budging. I ended up squeezing the rivet like @WVHillbilly520H suggested and it worked fine. Took the ole gal out for a test flight to inspect the neighborhood curbs after that; and she held at a steady 3500 rpm's with the motion lever all the way forward. Got back to the stable and tightened the adjusting nut on top of hydro another 32nd of a turn to make the motion lever even more less likely to creep down. Edited January 18, 2021 by Horse Newbie 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8770 Posted January 18, 2021 Painted the "Toro" in the 520H steering wheel today... Not perfect, touched the edges up with a black permanent marker. Surface tension is real... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8771 Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) Painted the Onan blower/ flywheel air intake screen today... Just noticed...what I thought was imperfections in the pics are the reflections of clouds. Edited January 19, 2021 by Horse Newbie 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8772 Posted January 18, 2021 Put my tread grip on my running boards to day on the 520H 7 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #8773 Posted January 18, 2021 horse newbie, on your throttle end removal , these work very well,https://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-2-half-inch-flat-pry-bar-2529.html use the leverage advantage of the bent end of this , with a wooden wedge to fill in the gap pry point , the less the bar has to move to draw on the knob , is giving you mechanical advantage, just a steady solid pull , will probably remove it easily , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #8774 Posted January 18, 2021 Well the dodge dually frame was junk so that didnt go thru. Looking at a cummins tomorrow and sold the charger 12 loader today 👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #8775 Posted January 19, 2021 31 minutes ago, peter lena said: horse newbie, on your throttle end removal , these work very well,https://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-2-half-inch-flat-pry-bar-2529.html use the leverage advantage of the bent end of this , with a wooden wedge to fill in the gap pry point , the less the bar has to move to draw on the knob , is giving you mechanical advantage, just a steady solid pull , will probably remove it easily , pete Thanks Peter... Got a pry bar like that...been using them since I was a kid. Like what usually happens, after one ot two of you guys tell me a way to do something I scratch my head and say "Why didn't I think of that?" I ended up reaching in behind the dash and giving the rivet at the throttle lever pivot point a good squeeze with a pair of Vice Grips like WVHillbilly520H said... took her out and the throttle seems to hold where it is set...Thanks again for responding... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
