chip61 658 #4826 Posted May 19, 2020 when I bought this C141 the paint was gone from the part of the hood close to the muffler. I'm in the process of a quick clean and paint and I'm wondering if it's normal for the muffler to be this close to the side of the hood?? It isn't touching, but it sure is close. It's a shaker engine with the brace on the muffler so there's no adjustment unless I start bending the brace, which I really don't want to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,604 #4827 Posted May 19, 2020 (edited) Those were built when they were changing over to the Black hoods . I don't think there is a fix for that, just not enough room there. If you don't have any low hanging limbs you could change to a stack muffler. It may be running rich and cause te muffler to be hotter. They will turn the muffler red hot if running rich it can be seen at night. Edited May 19, 2020 by Lee1977 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chip61 658 #4828 Posted May 19, 2020 Thanks! If it burns the paint off again, I'll get one of Jim Kemp's stack mufflers. Only one tree down here that's a problem, and a saw will fix that! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
balconio 606 #4829 Posted May 19, 2020 (edited) On 5/6/2020 at 7:50 AM, pullstart said: My wife’s new 2015 Suburban came from Webster, NY so therefore we called it Webster! Great minds think alike! I bought a used 2013 Suburban LT a couple years ago to replace my rusty 2004 Avalanche, and it's a great family vehicle. The only mistake i made was not checking the RPO codes for the axle ratio... it's rocking a 3.08 so max towing is 5k lbs and it hunts for gears a bit which is a little disappointing. other than that it's pretty loaded and the kids love it! I hated the Active Fuel Management so much i bought HP Tuners just to remove that so it stays in V8 mode, and i bumped the idle up since 550rpm is ridiculously low IMO and it idles much smoother now. $500 for the hardware/software to improve driveability is a little steep, but then again i'm picky. Also in the back of my mind is the fact that i could swap in a 6.0L and be able to tune it properly... If this motor pops, i'm taking a trip out to Wilbert's to hunt for an LQ9 lol. Edited May 19, 2020 by balconio photo upload 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #4830 Posted May 20, 2020 9 hours ago, Lee1977 said: It may be running rich and cause te muffler to be hotter. They will turn the muffler red hot if running rich it can be seen at night. many (if not most) would state a lean running engine would run hotter - but this is not always the case engine running on ideal air / fuel mixture actually will run the hottest (because it is producing more / most power) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,513 #4831 Posted May 20, 2020 After a complete Walbro carb rebuild, and cleaning..... I took snap crackle pop out for a spin. If you remember this was the filthy 312 Hydro I found in a garage buried for over 10 years. When I started it up after a long sleep it popped, crackled, and snapped fire and other things out of the carb.....After finding the exhaust valve gap at over a 1/4 inch , with your help I found the problem. I set the lash, changed the oil and from then on it ran perfect.. Ummmm until last week, when it started snorting and coughing again, but in a different fashion. Stripped the Gas tank, fuel lines and carb. Found water in the tank, bunk in the carb...time to redo everything. Fast forward to today.....This is the outcome from the fruits of labor, and not only does it run smooth, I had it tug the roller filled with sand ! Never grunted or complained. cruised around for 2 hours with no issues. Another happy rescue Horse. Here it is after it followed me home, and today after some love !!!! 6 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,019 #4832 Posted May 20, 2020 5 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: rescue That is an extremely impressive transformation! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,513 #4833 Posted May 20, 2020 I love my Horses...…She is now my dedicated Roller machine.. Thanks for the kind words !! All she will see now is wax and polish, with a little Armor All here and there. !!! No more Garage dirt. It had so much stuff on top of it, I did not even know what it was under the pile !! Had to save it once I saw it...And thanks to all for the Paint trick for the Nelson muffler....works wonderful, and looks great 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,876 #4834 Posted May 21, 2020 Been doing some cleaning and straightening in the shop and its cleaner thats its been in quite some time!! Still got a long way to go, but it feels good to see some progress!! 8 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elcamino/wheelhorse 9,278 #4835 Posted May 21, 2020 You can see the walls and floor , looks great . 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 8,551 #4836 Posted May 21, 2020 @balconio thats where my truck came from ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,513 #4837 Posted May 21, 2020 Putting the finishing touches on the 1257 exhaust today.....BIG chrome Magnaflow stack.....will post picture before and after when its complete !! Veterans are real heroes !!! HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY TO EVERYONE 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,600 #4838 Posted May 21, 2020 Tilled a spot for more asparagus and some rhubarb today. Checking out the new 1055 with 701 double pulley engine too. It came with an impressive mouse house, but it appears to be vacant. It came with some extras and some plows too! 8 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,947 #4839 Posted May 21, 2020 I didn't do much. Just picked up a can of air cleaner oil for the pre-filter on my K321. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,845 #4840 Posted May 21, 2020 5 hours ago, pullstart said: It came with an impressive mouse house, but it appears to be vacant You have been a busy young man lately. Guess everyone else is staying home and you have easy pickins. I have made a practice of tenting and fumigating any new acquisitions prior to taking them into the shop. Learned this the hard way, bought a parts tractor that had a family of mice living in it and it took several days to eradicate them in the shop. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PeacemakerJack 10,738 #4841 Posted May 22, 2020 22 hours ago, RandyLittrell said: Been doing some cleaning and straightening in the shop... That looks great Randy! Well done. Which begs the question, “What is your next project going to be?” 😉 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #4842 Posted May 22, 2020 6 hours ago, pullstart said: Tilled a spot for more asparagus and some rhubarb today. pullstart - you lookin mighty aerodynamic - similar to an IMSA Daytona Prototype car 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy N. 2,107 #4843 Posted May 22, 2020 So I've been fighting to remove the rear hitch pin from the '89 312-8 that I picked up last month. It apparently hasn't been removed in the last 30 years nor did it have grease applied prior to install. Needless to say it was corroded in place spectacularly. "Hammer time" didn't work, piped wrench didn't work, and both of those with heat didn't work. I've been spraying it down daily for the past 2 weeks with rust penetrant and today decided to go to Napa and get a external extractor set and use my impact gun with heat and rust penetrant and hope that would work. I was able to pry the spacers out of the way for more working room. It finally gave after about 20 minutes of hitting it with the impact, heat, and WD-40. Mind you it wasn't 20 minutes straight. There were some breaks with choice words being thrown at it while my little compressor that could caught up on air pressure. Lesson here is always keep that pin lubed with grease prior to install. I figured the hubs would be the issue, but the right side came off with relative ease with a puller. Left side will be next. (I had been spraying them down as well). Also, does anyone have a decent hitch pin that they would like to sell me. IMG_0432.mp4 IMG_0433.mp4 IMG_0436.mp4 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,845 #4844 Posted May 22, 2020 9 minutes ago, Andy N. said: I figured the hubs would be the issue, but the right side came off with relative ease with a puller. Left side will be next. (I had been spraying them down as well). Also, does anyone have a decent hitch pin that they would like to sell me The puller you are using will probably bust a stuck hub, they are cast iron. Use the hub you have removed to make a puller. Contact Lowell for a new pin. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hitches-liftkits.html 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,416 #4845 Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) 25 minutes ago, Andy N. said: Also, does anyone have a decent hitch pin that they would like to sell me. I cut some 3/4" round stock to length plus a little and drilled holes in each end so that cotter pins or hair pins could be used to hold it in place instead of the E-clips. Edited May 22, 2020 by Achto 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,936 #4846 Posted May 22, 2020 I have used hitch pins I buy at TSC for a rear wheel horse hitch . They are easily removed with handle and are smaller than 3/4 width for easy removal. 10 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,588 #4847 Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) Makes me real nervous seeing that two jaw on a hub Andy … be real careful. Looks like you have the newer stout hubs so not as critical but I have broken them too. You should be using a junk hub to pull. Also if you are splitting the cases you can remove the axle and take the other side to a press. On those hitch pins I take a sawsall and cut the pin off between the draw bar or slot hitch to get that out of the way. You might lose the bite for the pipe wrench tho so it's damned if you do damned you don't. If it's froze in a slot hitch you can at least take that to a press. Removal tactics can be different between a slot hitch & a draw bar. Other guys have drilled small holes in the tranny case into the pin to get some penetrant in there. I did that once but still a fight. Edited May 22, 2020 by WHX24 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,870 #4848 Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) 12 hours ago, Andy N. said: So I've been fighting to remove the rear hitch pin from the '89 312-8 that I picked up last month. Good job and great documentation. I always drill some holes in the case lugs to get the penetrant to the pin. then after the pin is removed, tap those holes for grease zerks. Like Jim, I also cut the pin off beside the lug and remove the hitch. I use a radiac wheel. Then I drill a 5/8" hole in the remaining pin stopping 1/4" before it breaks thru. The pin can then be driven out with a hardened drift inserted in the hole. By driving on the bottom of the hole, the pin is actually being pulled and stretched rather than being pushed and expanded. I always drill and drive from the right side so the force is against the thicker lug. Edited May 22, 2020 by Ed Kennell 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 40,913 #4849 Posted May 22, 2020 Chrome Sockets can shatter violently when used in a press!!! Buy a cheap Impact rated socket!!!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,588 #4850 Posted May 22, 2020 26 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: I use a radiac wheel. Excuse my ignorance Ed what is?? Like a cut off wheel? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites