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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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Ed Kennell
1 hour ago, Chris G said:

 

 

 

20210322_153741.jpg

 

     Is that a modified 4 wheeler rack?      That's what I need to reach my Bluebird boxes for cleaning.    It would really beat standing on the seat.

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ebinmaine

@Chris G love that tractor man....

 

@Gregor these transmissions are incredibly easy to split and repair. 

Mechanically you'd have NO issue. 

There are certain points that offer physical challenges such as the hubs, that pin, and the actual point of lifting the half off the other. 

 

The pin could be "work hardened" at your current stopping point. 

Try getting at it from the opposite side. 

 

If not there are specific specialty drills that will take it out. 

I've been mulling over the same issue with a different project here. 

I haven't had the chance to try them yet... I just bought 2 Titanium nitride bits from K. L. Jack here in Portland Maine. 

They are confident I'll have a bigger advantage. 

 

 

Again..... Transmission..... Easy build.

I've done several. 

Me. 

You can do it. 

 

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Gregor

As I have said before, I really prefer things to work and be as they should be. That being said, if this tractor never has a hitch, I can live with it. It's simply not worth it to me to chance breaking something. I haven't given up on it yet. I am waiting on ordered supplies to give it another go. For now, I just keep heating it, let it cool. and give it a few whacks.

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Pullstart
2 hours ago, Gregor said:

As I have said before, I really prefer things to work and be as they should be. That being said, if this tractor never has a hitch, I can live with it. It's simply not worth it to me to chance breaking something. I haven't given up on it yet. I am waiting on ordered supplies to give it another go. For now, I just keep heating it, let it cool. and give it a few whacks.


 

Candle wax (beeswax?) can be used after heating.  The heated metal will pull the wax in like sweating copper pipes.  It’ll help to lube the stuck area too..  that’s of course if the pipe wrench doesn’t work to spin it.

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Gregor

I said I was not in favor of splitting this tranny, but....... I fear I may have "cooked" the gasket. I may have to open it up enough to get some silicone in there. Of course, if I don't get the pin out, I can't do that either.  I hope I am not hurting anything else with this heat.

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Ed Kennell
39 minutes ago, Gregor said:

if I don't get the pin out, I can't do that either. 

You can actuall cut thru the pin at the case split and have plenty of sealing surface left  to reseal the case. 

I prefer to use a 4.5" cut off grinder to cut the pins.  Seems I have more control than with a sawzall.

  I would hesitate to inject silicone in a leaking gasket area.. Especially if it is a hydro.

Edited by Ed Kennell
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Gregor
2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

   I would hesitate to inject silicone in a leaking gasket area.. Especially if it is a hydro.

Good point

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Tach-a-matic

Replaced the PTO clutch over lunch time and without changing into the dirty clothes. I love the ease of maintenance of a Horse!

 

IMG-7083.jpg

 

IMG-7084.jpg

 

IMG-7086.jpg

 

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Gregor said:

Good point

Forgive my lack of memory but is this a hydro or manual transmission?

 

TBH, either way, I would NOT put silicone anywhere near that thing. 

 

I'll try to remember when I get home to get a picture of the case half I was working on the other day so you can see exactly what you're up against, from the inside.

 

 

 

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Gregor

If I were to prop up and set the trans on it's left side, and simply lift the cover u, will all its innards stay in place?

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pfrederi
35 minutes ago, Gregor said:

If I were to prop up and set the trans on it's left side, and simply lift the cover u, will all its innards stay in place?

It is a little hard to follow this in this thread .  You should make one in Transmissions.  Is this a hydro or gear.  Normally you put the short side (right side down).  If it is a hydro there are not many internals so that isn't a show stopper.  As indicated never ever put RTV on a hydro or you may soon have the opportunity to reopen things to get bits of RTV out of acceleration valves....

Edited by pfrederi
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Gregor

I just looked at the exploded view of the trans on Partstree. YOU want ME to open that up? Did your momma drop you on your head when you was a baby?

 

This is a hydro.

 

Neve rmind. I was looking at a 656. A geared trans.  I have been working on my 656 today, and had that on my mind I guess.

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pfrederi
19 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I just looked at the exploded view of the trans on Partstree. YOU want ME to open that up? Did your momma drop you on your head when you was a baby?

 

This is a hydro.

The hydo transaxle has very few parts compared to a gear drive.

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Gregor

When you said lift kit, it reminded me of something. I was cruising Facebook the other day, and came across a tilt and trim package for am 85HP Evinrude. An 85hp Evinrude is heavy !  A tilt and trim kit is completely self contained. It works hydraulically, all you have to supply is 12V power. Anyone ever thought about adapting a tilt and trim unit to the back of a tractor? Or would it not work? Just a thought.

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Blackhood Bill

@Gregor you might try after heating it up then spray wd40 on (into) it. Like you would with a nut and bolt. After heating spray the wd on it would allow the wd to be pulled in and maybe help loosen it.

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Tractorhead

If all things like WD40 fails, i use Breakfluid after a Warm up.

 

In my experiences Brakefluid is more heat resistant than WD40 and have more penetrating force when heated.

The only dis is, Brakefluid attacks the Paint.

 

But for hardly rotten things they must be removed it’s my first choice.

Warm it up, put few dribbs into and repeat this 2-3 times.

 

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Oldskool
30 minutes ago, Gregor said:

When you said lift kit, it reminded me of something. I was cruising Facebook the other day, and came across a tilt and trim package for am 85HP Evinrude. An 85hp Evinrude is heavy !  A tilt and trim kit is completely self contained. It works hydraulically, all you have to supply is 12V power. Anyone ever thought about adapting a tilt and trim unit to the back of a tractor? Or would it not work? Just a thought.

There is also an automotive version of that. It's the self contained electric/hydraulic plow lift piston.

20210323_175100.jpg

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Tach-a-matic

Dont know how old the key switch is so replaced it. The Ammeter is stuck on "3" and is next.  

 

IMG-7091.jpg

 

Edited by Tach-a-matic
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Gregor

My 656 does not have any safety lock out switches. No seat switch, neutral switch, brake interlock switch, or anything like that. Believe ot or not, after all the trouble that little Tecumseh caused me, it starts and runs perfect. Sometimes too perfect. When it's warm, it will start with barely a bump of the key. More than once I have almost ran into one of our vehicles when I start it in the driveway. So, I installed a momentary contact switch between the ignition switch, and the solenoid, activated by pushing the brake pedal. I know, all I have to do is put it in neutral, problem solved, but.....I have 3 tractors in the garage I move out each morning, weather permitting. (Neighbors just love me a 4:30 AM) and sometimes it's hard for an old guy to remember just which tractor he is on.20210323_180916.jpg.3bcaf9ee29e563c6b7d3095bc432fa49.jpgThere is fish paper betwen the switch and battery hold plate. I need to find some small wire loom.

As a side note, with the mess I have in here today, you would have thought I completed a lot of things, but I didn't. One of those days where everything had to be done twice, at least. I hate those days.:angry-screaming:

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ebinmaine
56 minutes ago, Tach-a-matic said:

Ammeter

Don't know how long that's been busted....

A broken ammeter is a great way to burn a tractor. 

 

I'm no fan of any ammeter though I do agree they have a place. 

Just not on anything I own. 

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Lee1977
50 minutes ago, Gregor said:

My 656 does not have any safety lock out switches. No seat switch, neutral switch, brake interlock switch, or anything like that. Believe ot or not, after all the trouble that little Tecumseh caused me, it starts and runs perfect. Sometimes too perfect. When it's warm, it will start with barely a bump of the key. More than once I have almost ran into one of our vehicles when I start it in the driveway. So, I installed a momentary contact switch between the ignition switch, and the solenoid, activated by pushing the brake pedal. I know, all I have to do is put it in neutral, problem solved, but.....I have 3 tractors in the garage I move out each morning, weather permitting. (Neighbors just love me a 4:30 AM) and sometimes it's hard for an old guy to remember just which tractor he is on.20210323_180916.jpg.3bcaf9ee29e563c6b7d3095bc432fa49.jpgThere is fish paper betwen the switch and battery hold plate. I need to find some small wire loom.

As a side note, with the mess I have in here today, you would have thought I completed a lot of things, but I didn't. One of those days where everything had to be done twice, at least. I hate those days.:angry-screaming:

Wheel  Horse put a small ball switch on the clutch on the clutch and PTO on the C-Series. Clutch had to be depressed and the PTO off to start.

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sparkie333
16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Transmission..... Easy build.

I've done several. 

I don't think I could----I try to stay away from all transmissions-- I did have a 5 speed that a shop fixed for me ---They call and sad it was locked up----I said I will be right over. Got there and the guy grabbed the tail shaft and showed me it would not turn. --I said have you backed off of the lock nut he said no it would call for another lock washer I said take it loose and he did and it turned----I had him to take the jam washer off the shaft that was up agance the back bearing and hand it to me --he did I seen great wear on the washer the washer was 1/4" thick--- and told him to flip it over and re tighten he did and it turned as it should.

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sparkie333
On 3/20/2021 at 2:36 PM, Tach-a-matic said:

ooks like someone has been here before (to be expected on a 40yr old machine I suppose).  No major scratches or gauges though :)

 

Looking good -------------

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