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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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TonyToro
20 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

This is steel I got off the jungle site. 

Lol after I sent that I read your reply that is was steel... lol

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BeninCT
On 2/15/2021 at 7:40 PM, cschannuth said:

Put a plastic wear bar on that dude and drop the blade all the way down on the asphalt so it cleans off the snow completely.  You can set the feet so that they will stop your blade from going too low and damaging your driveway when the plastic wear bar eventually wears away.

 

Thanks for the kick in the pants. I realized today that I had half a sheet of 3/4 King Starboard (PE plastic sheet) in my shop and literally 20 mins later I had this. Will try it out tomorrow I think. 

15A47476-B30A-402D-AC14-11EBC209FD3D.jpeg

62906C15-C80F-43C9-9F0F-8B2AA55E5700.jpeg

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ebinmaine
13 minutes ago, BeninCT said:

3/4 King Starboard

Oh man 

That stuff is AWESOME

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, MichiganCO said:

I’m having a issue with it. It’s a c-100 8 speed 10HP. Placed in high range and then shift into 2nd and 3rd gear it seems to be as slow as 1st gear. Yesterday it was running amazing and today it’s slow and barely can move

Have you before that the hub keys are all whole?

I'm wondering if you have sheered a key. 

Does the engine run the same all the time?

 

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BeninCT
20 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Oh man 

That stuff is AWESOME

And expensive.  I think the 4x8 sheet was $380 2 year ago and I only needed half.  will be fun to see how it goes. 

 

Roughly made plow feet for sale....

 

 

0A8BDBEB-24DE-4A05-99DD-891B0CBE9A30.jpeg

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MichiganCO

Engine is running smooth and no changes. I’ve read couple posts about key being sheared just can’t seem to find it on the hub. Maybe I don’t no what I’m looking for honestly 

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, MichiganCO said:

Engine is running smooth and no changes. I’ve read couple posts about key being sheared just can’t seem to find it on the hub. Maybe I don’t no what I’m looking for honestly 

Inside the hub. It's what keeps it rolling with the axle. 

 

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MichiganCO

Ok so basically take the wheel off and the hub to see if the key has been sheared. 

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cschannuth
2 hours ago, BeninCT said:

 

Thanks for the kick in the pants. I realized today that I had half a sheet of 3/4 King Starboard (PE plastic sheet) in my shop and literally 20 mins later I had this. Will try it out tomorrow I think. 

15A47476-B30A-402D-AC14-11EBC209FD3D.jpeg

62906C15-C80F-43C9-9F0F-8B2AA55E5700.jpeg

Awesome!  

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MichiganCO

Woodruff looks great but the set screw was loose. Could the set screw really be the factor

image.jpg

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Jeff-C175
15 minutes ago, MichiganCO said:

looks great

 

That key looks pretty well hammered in my eyes!

 

What's the inside of the hub look like?

 

That groove was from the set screw wearing it down, I don't think that's supposed to be there.

 

It could be previous damage too.

 

I could never get those setscrews tight enough with a combo wrench, had to purchase an 8 point socket to get about 30 ft lb of torque on the screw.

 

Newer hubs have two set screws.

Edited by Jeff-C175
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MichiganCO

When I examined the wheel I could see the key. From the outside of the wheel. 

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8ntruck

 @ebinmaine - 1055 can be flame hardened, but a propane torch is probably not enough.  You need to get it to 1500 F (light cherry red), then quench it in oil or water.  An oxy/acc torch with a rosebud tip is the proper tool.  You would want the flame to be slightly carburizing.

 

On a long skinny piece like your wear edge, would probably warp when only one edge is flame hardened.  You would be better off heat treating both edges at the same time. 

 

In a production application, a part like this would be heated by passing it through a series of torches to heat the edges, then passed through a water spray for quenching.  There would probably be a straightening operation after quench.

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, MichiganCO said:

When I examined the wheel I could see the key. From the outside of the wheel. 

Yeah that's not normal for sure. 

 

What's the inside of the hub look like?

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haydendavid380
9 hours ago, BeninCT said:

And expensive.  I think the 4x8 sheet was $380 2 year ago and I only needed half.  will be fun to see how it goes. 

 

Roughly made plow feet for sale....

 

 

0A8BDBEB-24DE-4A05-99DD-891B0CBE9A30.jpeg

 I was going to say, if a foot of it for my couple ducers was like $60. You must be rich to have a sheet! 

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WVHillbilly520H
On 2/13/2021 at 9:32 AM, TonyToro said:

I have been looking at the firestones...a few guys selling them on the .net and eBay but super pricey. Amazing tire though. 

Are 100% they are the original "turf" tread  Firestone like was pictured and came on mostly Cub Cadet and John Deere of the late 70s early 80s and the 23° AG tread?

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Pullstart
On 2/12/2021 at 7:08 PM, Gregor said:

I couldn't find the DPDT switch I wanted, so I installed a 4PDT relay.836598862_snowplowcontrol1(1).jpg.30305a488941459b28001e31bd65f489.jpg I am controlling the relay with an on/off push button switch. The push button switch is mounted in front of the PTO pedal.2054628478_snowplowcontrol1(3).jpg.6accb56a7d466ffaed9979b70fe87eae.jpg Tap the pedal, the plow comes up. tap it again, the plow goes down. Again, it aint purdy, but it works.


This is 4 pages back already so it might have been brought up in the meantime... but great idea!  I’d love to see a video in action, or more pictures to show the process!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

On 2/13/2021 at 1:29 AM, tom2p said:


I've read this - and it might be true in some situations 

 

but I've personally never found it to be true - the wider tire always provided better traction in the snow for me 

 

trucks with a snow plow plowing snow

 

SUVs with loaded trailer on snow 

 

quads on snow 

 

motorcycles on snow (without spikes - not fun)

 


same thing here.  4 pages old.  I’m behind!  My most favorite snow tires for my many plow trucks I’be had, have been 235/85-16 Cooper Discovery tall and skinny.  Those compared to say a 265/75-16?  235’s all day long!  I have 4 chains to fit them, and they became unstoppable!  I could plow in 2wd, where I normally couldn’t go in 4wd!

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Pullstart
On 2/15/2021 at 4:11 PM, Greentored said:

I recently learned about different rear wheel offsets and now realize why the rear track width on Hoss was so wide. Quick (probably permanent ha) fix- flipped the hubs. Gonna need to switch to the smaller 5/8” lugs to clear one set screw, but otherwise think it’ll be fine. Track width is much better, Hoss looks better, and oughtta sit in the furrow and line the plow up better too. 
Anyone else tried this? 

5A4F6F20-DF9A-4DCC-8A9A-EC7171881FD9.jpeg

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I’ve still got some pages of catch up to do, but @953 nut put Hot Wheels together with hubs inside out I believe.  I’m not sure what hubs they are, they are 5 lug and 953’s came 4 lug.  I haven’t ever removed them, but they occasionally walk out and need a correction, but he built it for a show cruiser and I tend to work it on occasion!

 
 

On the picture with the plow, you can see where the tire starts to get the paint a little warm on the back of the fender.  That’s my indication that I need to move the hub back out or get out of the furrows!

 

 

 

B631ADE5-E1C9-426C-A924-A1BEBEA42CCF.jpeg

590D452F-BC86-4839-BF1C-B704AF28F563.jpeg

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Greentored
16 minutes ago, pullstart said:


I’ve still got some pages of catch up to do, but @953 nut put Hot Wheels together with hubs inside out I believe.  I’m not sure what hubs they are, they are 5 lug and 953’s came 4 lug.  I haven’t ever removed them, but they occasionally walk out and need a correction, but he built it for a show cruiser and I tend to work it on occasion!

 
 

On the picture with the plow, you can see where the tire starts to get the paint a little warm on the back of the fender.  That’s my indication that I need to move the hub back out or get out of the furrows!

 

 

 

 

 

Good to hear! I had room to just move the hubs in, but the set screws would not be on top of the center of the key- didnt think that was a good idea.  I also had a small concern about not having that center 'step' to locate the wheel, but hoping as long as the lugs stay snug it will be ok. 

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Pullstart
Just now, Greentored said:

Good to hear! I had room to just move the hubs in, but the set screws would not be on top of the center of the key- didnt think that was a good idea.  I also had a small concern about not having that center 'step' to locate the wheel, but hoping as long as the lugs stay snug it will be ok. 


We’re not driving on the highway... most of the time.  I have a feeling the lug nuts or bolts will do a dandy job holding the wheel on!  Side note, reading about LS swaps with older GM transmissions.  Only 5 of the 6 bell housing bolts (10mm thread) fit, some people only run the side 4 for some reason... but on a 12” wide (-ish) bell housing, those 4 bolts can hold 4 digit horse power ratings together.  I bet 5 lugs on a GT is excessive.

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Pullstart

Caught up on 4 pages of this thread...

 

A couple days back a buddy needed a piece of sheet metal from the extras pile.  While there, I showed him the Senior.  Was pretty disappointed that in 1 digit temps, it still took 2 pulls to fire up.  :ROTF:

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Greentored
9 minutes ago, pullstart said:


We’re not driving on the highway... most of the time.  I have a feeling the lug nuts or bolts will do a dandy job holding the wheel on!  Side note, reading about LS swaps with older GM transmissions.  Only 5 of the 6 bell housing bolts (10mm thread) fit, some people only run the side 4 for some reason... but on a 12” wide (-ish) bell housing, those 4 bolts can hold 4 digit horse power ratings together.  I bet 5 lugs on a GT is excessive.

That is a fact!  Back when I was destroying one trans per summer (TH400) in big orange, I did another overhaul and swapped converter companies, got it all wrapped up, went to install, and noticed a 4" long crack in the bellhousing, got ticked off and threw it together anyhow.

That was in 2001 and she's still going, including probably 500 dragstrip passes, many on slicks and lifting the tires.  Cant say its not on my mind ha, but its been 20 years, im not messing with it.

 

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953 nut
9 hours ago, MichiganCO said:

Woodruff looks great but the set screw was loose. Could the set screw really be the factor

image.jpg

:WRS:

Take a look at the inside of the hub you removed, it is probably chewed up and will need to be replaced. Lincoln at A-Z can fox you up. 

https://a-ztractor.com/  Also get a new rubber boot to go over the shift lever to keep the new gear oil clean. With a new woodruff key and a good hub your axle is serviceable though not great.

Check the axle for any up-down or front/back play. In and out is OK but is there is any play there is probably a bad bearing. Whatever the problem is we have the people here who can guide you through the repair.

 

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953 nut
46 minutes ago, pullstart said:

@953 nut put Hot Wheels together with hubs inside out I believe.  I’m not sure what hubs they are, they are 5 lug and 953’s came 4 lug.  I haven’t ever removed them, but they occasionally walk out and need a correction, but he built it for a show cruiser and I tend to work it on occasion!

I have no idea what those rims were from. The hubs were turned out by the previous owner so the wheels wouldn't stick out too far. Between the rim offset and the longer axles (not sure but think they may be from a "D") it looked rather strange with the hubs on right.            :hide:

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Pullstart
17 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I have no idea what those rims were from. The hubs were turned out by the previous owner so the wheels wouldn't stick out too far. Between the rim offset and the longer axles (not sure but think they may be from a "D") it looked rather strange with the hubs on right.            :hide:


 

No reason for the :hide: Richard, I knew what I was getting into and am still so happy I did!  All is well, Hot Wheels rocks!  I wish I could fix what ales me sometimes with a quick hub adjustment and a set screw quarter turn :wh:

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