What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

Ever hear of the 'Baking Soda and Super Glue' trick?

 

I'm sorry I didn't take any pics of the process but with Super Glue and Gloves I didn't dare touch the camera, and I didn't even think of taking 'before' pics.  I honestly didn't think it would work and there would be nothing to write about.  

 

Here's a pic of the hydro knob.  You can just make out the repair and I've outlined the area on the right side that was missing.

In actual light without the camera flash, the difference is even less noticeable.

You could paint the knob I suppose but that would look 'too new' for my taste so I went with the black sharpie method described below.

 

The knob on my hydro lever and on the mule drive both had big chunks out of them.  I had some time on my hands so I decided to try the trick... and was EXTREMELY happy with the results!

 

Basically what you do is clean the surfaces very well however you like.  I used soft scrub and a teeth brush.  Rinse and dry.

 

I used the 'runny' super glue but I suspect that the medium would work better and not run all over the place.

 

Apply the super glue to the area and with a 'coke spoon' or something similar, dump some baking powder on (QUICKLY!).  I used a popsicle stick as a shovel.  The super glue INSTANTLY sets ROCK HARD! and gives off copious NASTY FUMES! (see warnings below)

 

Do a little at a time, take your time, and keep repeating the process until the missing area is built up past where it needs to be so that you can 'machine' it back down.

 

For the hydro knob I found that a 'Sharpie' pen barrel was just the right size to stick in the hole and give a form to keep from having to do excess shaping afterward.  BUT!!!!  I didn't think it would... the glue stuck to that pen barrel.  I suggest finding something that it wont stick to or possibly a thin layer of vaseline on the pen barrel.  

 

After I got the knob built back up I rough shaped it with SHARP files.  When I say this stuff dries ROCK hard, I mean it!  It's harder than the phenolic material.  I don't know why I didn't think of using my Dremel tool with a sanding drum but I bet that would work dandy.

 

After the rough shaping I put it in my benchtop lathe and used a strip of fine sandpaper to finish it off.

 

Finally, I found that Black Sharpie bonds to the super glue extremely well.  Paint only the white part of the repair with the sharpie and immediately wipe it down with a paper towel.

 

The end product is nearly indistinguishable from the phenolic.  You have to know where the repair was in order to see it!

 

The mule drive knob was more challenging due to the flutes, etc...  I felt like Michael Angelo sculpting a statue.  I used a combination of flat, round, and jewelers files to shape it.

 

It came out perfect... again, almost indistinguishable from the original.  I intentionally left a few gouges and stuff so it looked like the rest of the knob.  The scratches you see are on the original part of the knob, repair is just below that, looking close at the pic I could probably smooth it out a bit more. The repair starts at about 0530 and ends at about 0800.

 

 

I used three of the small tubes of super glue from the dollar store (2 tubes in a package) and a couple tablespoons of baking soda.

So material cost was nil.  I did spend about 6 hours total, it's a pretty slow process but IMHO well worth the effort.

 

Very pleased...  now for the WARNINGS!!!!! 

 

WEAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GOGGLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, OUTSIDE IF POSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The FUMES are VERY NASTY and if they get in your nose or your eyes you will be in a world of hurt. 

You may end up in the emergency room.

I imagine they could permanently damage your sinuses, lungs, and eyes. 

They may even be POISONOUS. (cyanide?  Dunno... maybe)

If you try this, do not take these cautions lightly PLEASE!

 

Edited January 1, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[ebinmaine 67,502]

6 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

,tie rods for the steering

Are you buying them or making them?

[squonk 41,118]

On 12/29/2020 at 7:04 PM, Jhook said:

New toy came today. Will make life easier next weekend fabbing up a new hydraulic pump bracket. 

Details please! 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

That is a handy tool Mike.

 

Got the same from the bay.

search for Bandsaw Metal

 

Can be used with the stand or without as mobile solution on construction sites.

 

buyed mine for 150$ And it is worth each penny.

on bigger Steelparts it wobbles a little in the saw so the cuttingforce can be seen visible, 

but it cut‘s pretty nice and easier than doing it by hand.

 

The cutting area can held straight a max. Of 100mm x100mm thickness on 45* cuts it decreases to a max of 80mmx80mm.

 

i will instal on mine a minimum quantity lubrication system for longer Steelcuts.

i love that saw since the first day it arrives.

 

[sparkie333 265]

7 hours ago, KrazeyOlDave said:

Battery box too big?

it's par for the corse-- that the battery's got smaller and smaller but the price got more and more.

[Shed 248]

6 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Ever hear of the 'Baking Soda and Super Glue' trick?

 

I'm sorry I didn't take any pics of the process but with Super Glue and Gloves I didn't dare touch the camera, and I didn't even think of taking 'before' pics.  I honestly didn't think it would work and there would be nothing to write about.  

 

Here's a pic of the hydro knob.  You can just make out the repair and I've outlined the area on the right side that was missing.

In actual light without the camera flash, the difference is even less noticeable.

You could paint the knob I suppose but that would look 'too new' for my taste so I went with the black sharpie method described below.

 

The knob on my hydro lever and on the mule drive both had big chunks out of them.  I had some time on my hands so I decided to try the trick... and was EXTREMELY happy with the results!

 

Basically what you do is clean the surfaces very well however you like.  I used soft scrub and a teeth brush.  Rinse and dry.

 

I used the 'runny' super glue but I suspect that the medium would work better and not run all over the place.

 

Apply the super glue to the area and with a 'coke spoon' or something similar, dump some baking powder on (QUICKLY!).  I used a popsicle stick as a shovel.  The super glue INSTANTLY sets ROCK HARD! and gives off copious NASTY FUMES! (see warnings below)

 

Do a little at a time, take your time, and keep repeating the process until the missing area is built up past where it needs to be so that you can 'machine' it back down.

 

For the hydro knob I found that a 'Sharpie' pen barrel was just the right size to stick in the hole and give a form to keep from having to do excess shaping afterward.  BUT!!!!  I didn't think it would... the glue stuck to that pen barrel.  I suggest finding something that it wont stick to or possibly a thin layer of vaseline on the pen barrel.  

 

After I got the knob built back up I rough shaped it with SHARP files.  When I say this stuff dries ROCK hard, I mean it!  It's harder than the phenolic material.  I don't know why I didn't think of using my Dremel tool with a sanding drum but I bet that would work dandy.

 

After the rough shaping I put it in my benchtop lathe and used a strip of fine sandpaper to finish it off.

 

Finally, I found that Black Sharpie bonds to the super glue extremely well.  Paint only the white part of the repair with the sharpie and immediately wipe it down with a paper towel.

 

The end product is nearly indistinguishable from the phenolic.  You have to know where the repair was in order to see it!

 

The mule drive knob was more challenging due to the flutes, etc...  I felt like Michael Angelo sculpting a statue.  I used a combination of flat, round, and jewelers files to shape it.

 

It came out perfect... again, almost indistinguishable from the original.  I'll take a pic of that and post in a day or two.

 

I used three of the small tubes of super glue from the dollar store (2 tubes in a package) and a couple tablespoons of baking soda.

So material cost was nil.  I did spend about 6 hours total, it's a pretty slow process but IMHO well worth the effort.

 

Very pleased...  now for the WARNINGS!!!!! 

 

WEAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GOGGLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, OUTSIDE IF POSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The FUMES are VERY NASTY and if they get in your nose or your eyes you will be in a world of hurt. 

You may end up in the emergency room.

I imagine they could permanently damage your sinuses, lungs, and eyes. 

They may even be POISONOUS. (cyanide?  Dunno... maybe)

If you try this, do not take these cautions lightly PLEASE!

 

They actually came up with this trick to fix carbon fiber rotor blades for helicopters it came out nice

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Endeavored to perservere...

and fix this 552 Lauson's PITA broken recoil today.

If you've never been inside one of these things, here are a couple picts to illustrate what's going on in there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jhook 849]

9 hours ago, squonk said:

Details please! 

Its a WEN brand model 3975t. Will handle 5x5 inch material. Blade stays stone cold, no lube needed, blades are cheap and plentiful and can be modded to run as a vertical saw also. It has mixed reviews, mine cut dead square out of the box. It has adjustable speed, makes wicked clean cuts for it. It ran me around 320 bucks delivered i believe. Id recommend it for sure. Its pretty big around 50 pounds but small enough to move wherever you need it. 

[Handy Don 12,232]

53 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Endeavored to perservere...

and fix this 552 Lauson's PITA broken recoil today.

If you've never been inside one of these things, here are a couple picts to illustrate what's going on in there.

@AMC RULES I think you are giving away the secret handshake here! Being able to fix recoil starters had made me a legend in my neighborhood and earned me all kinds of baked goods and adult beverages in return. Not sure I like the idea of others learning the tricks. 

[ebinmaine 67,502]

@AMC RULESRULES

@Handy DonDon

I'm sure both of you are well aware that no sane person would tackle one of those

 

Craig, nice work there.

 

 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

2 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Endeavored to perservere

 

 

Love that movie!!! 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

Edited December 31, 2020 by RandyLittrell

[953 nut 55,230]

6 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

fix this 552 Lauson's PITA broken recoil today.

Great instructional/pictorial thread, needs to be saved.            Would you please do a new post on this project so it can be added to the "Instructional Threads". This "What Have You Done" thread doesn't show up in searches.              

[squonk 41,118]

In the 60's, Tecky recoils got more work than the entire group of people who worked on "Project Apollo"! 

 

[Handy Don 12,232]

19 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@AMC RULESRULES

@Handy DonDon

I'm sure both of you are well aware that no sane person would tackle one of those

 

Craig, nice work there.

 

 

I came close to the edge when the spring on a 2-person auger's cheesy 2-cycle import popped loose for the third time! I beat that sucker on the 4th try though!

Craig is probably better at it than me.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

It's always a dance relearning the sequence of steps it takes to repair one.

But, I'm a glutton for punishment and like a challenge, plus I was tired of looking at it laying there looking at me.  🙈

Edited January 1, 2021 by AMC RULES

[squonk 41,118]

On a more serious note,  I had a neighbor bring me his push mower he couldn't get started. Turned out his recoil rope kept breaking so he just tied the handle to what was left. Ended up with a cord about a foot and a half long. Bout tore my arm off the first time I gave it a yank! 

[cleat 5,987]

Worst recoil spring I ever dealt with was on the Wife's vacuum cleaner that has a real long cord.

Spring was in a big tangled ball that needed to be untangled then rewound.

 

[Achto 27,577]

I have not been happy with the way my C145 snow pusher steers with the turf tires on the front. Even with the blade lifted it would push really bad when trying to turn. I had picked up a used set of Carlisle X Trac tires to try out. Yesterday I stopped over to @WHX24's for a visit so I took my front wheels along to change the tires out. BTW the Harbor Freight small tire changer works well. It would work a little easier if it were it was mounted solid instead of on a rolling cart. It is much better than trying to mount them with spoons while trying to hold them still.

 

This morning I put the wheels back on the tractor & went for a test run. With the turf tires I would have to constantly counter steer to keep the tractor strait while plowing with the blade at an angle. With the new tires turning the steering wheel is a little bit harder but, the tractor now goes where ever I point it. Very happy with the new kicks !! 

 

Of course it didn't happen with out pics.

 

 

 

 

[sparkie333 265]

I'm glad you got it going your way.

[ebinmaine 67,502]

Got the front lights wired up and working on Trina's Pig Pen 867. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weight on. Front roller chains on. 

Plow is mounted. 

 

Both of our tractors are ready for snow. Expecting 4 or 5 inches by mid afternoon tomorrow. 

 

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Looking goooood

[Handy Don 12,232]

Finally got some transparent weatherproof double-sided adhesive tape film (whew!) by 3m and reattached the plastic overlay for the indicator light panel on the 518-H. Hooray, now I can see what all the blinking lites are trying to tell me!

But I'm also curious.  Took the thing out for a ride in the dark after the fix just to celebrate. Headlights and taillights are great, but the voltmeter, gas gauge, and hours meter are not lit! Assuming this is normal, but I never noticed that before 'cause I'm never on the tractor in the dark. Hours isn't important, gas and voltage would be nice to see, but if I haven't noticed 'til now, I can probably live without them lit . Might be handy, though, to add some sort of small light that illuminates the controls if I get to using it in the dark more often. 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

13 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Headlights and taillights are great, but the voltmeter, gas gauge, and hours meter are not lit! Assuming this is normal, but I never noticed that before 'cause I'm never on the tractor in the dark.

My hour meter on my 1994 520H doesn't have a light...

All other gauges do...voltmeter, fuel, horsepower/ vacuum, tach.

Not sure about your 518-H...

So you have bulbs in the gauges...and no light ?

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

19 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Finally got some transparent weatherproof double-sided adhesive tape film (whew!) by 3m and reattached the plastic overlay for the indicator light panel on the 518-H.

I reglued mine on my 520H by spraying adhesive on the back and resticking it on.

[Handy Don 12,232]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

My hour meter on my 1994 520H doesn't have a light...

All other gauges do...voltmeter, fuel, horsepower/ vacuum, tach.

Not sure about your 518-H...

So you have bulbs in the gauges...and no light ?

It's an '88. I looked and don't see a separate 12v connection to the gas gauge, only sensor and ground (the voltmeter wouldn't need one!) so assuming they were never lit.