Jhook 849 #7926 Posted November 25, 2020 Also if anyone one near western ma has a trans ready to go i will pay good money for it, that way i could bolt a new used trans on while fixing my current one. Then i have an extra for backup or for someone that ends up needing a new one like i do. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,629 #7927 Posted November 25, 2020 There is a drain plug on the bottom, yes. As Paul says above that really does NEED to come apart. The parking pawl itself is basically a hoop of steel that engages into one of the gears. If you live on perfectly flat land you probably could get away with not using it but seeing as to how you're going to open up the transmission I would highly advise putting it back in because it would prevent the tractor from creeping while idling. If you run down through my Charger Hydro project thread there are some pictures... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7928 Posted November 25, 2020 I just dont see how the brake could be dragging with the lever down all the way i even took the spring off. But we will see soon enough what the issue is. Im confident i can get it sorted out with the help of the members here 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,629 #7929 Posted November 25, 2020 The reason you can't run it as is, even though it may be able to move the tractor right now there is obviously some interference in there going on. of course you'll need to figure out what that is and rectify the situation but also there's a metal strainer in there that is going to catch most of the metal going through the system but not all of it and that will be to be cleaned out. Just now, Jhook said: I just dont see how the brake could be dragging with the lever down all the way i even took the spring off. But we will see soon enough what the issue is. Im confident i can get it sorted out with the help of the members here Oh yeah yeah. You'll be fine. No worries whatsoever. It's quite a simple system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #7930 Posted November 25, 2020 Eric is being positive... be aware that given the noise and the abuse (hubs being shot) and that you haven't really run it, it may turn out the hydro pump has been damaged. Several of us have successfully restored the pump/motor and there are instructional videos thread on here to help you....if it is not too far damaged. That is why you need to open it up and see what is wrong . Further running may lead to bigger issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7931 Posted November 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Eric is being positive... be aware that given the noise and the abuse (hubs being shot) and that you haven't really run it, it may turn out the hydro pump has been damaged. Several of us have successfully restored the pump/motor and there are instructional videos thread on here to help you....if it is not too far damaged. That is why you need to open it up and see what is wrong . Further running may lead to bigger issues. Ok. Is there any easily replaceable parts that i will 100 percent need to finish reassembly? Id like to have everything on order if you have a short list of parts needed and hopefully arrive by the time i get the trans taken apart and ready to redo. Also i imagine the case is sealed with RTV? As well as the pump-to-trans mating surface Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,629 #7932 Posted November 25, 2020 1 hour ago, pullstart said: I cannot load the video right now, could it be a limited slip diff doing it!s thing? Not sure what years hydro had limited slip diffs My 1970 does have it and does not make any noise resembling that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,913 #7933 Posted November 25, 2020 Yeah, no. That ain’t right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,913 #7934 Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Jhook said: Ok. Is there any easily replaceable parts that i will 100 percent need to finish reassembly? Id like to have everything on order if you have a short list of parts needed and hopefully arrive by the time i get the trans taken apart and ready to redo. Also i imagine the case is sealed with RTV? As well as the pump-to-trans mating surface Wheel Horse Parts and More will have a transmission case gasket, I believe. RTV on completely flat surfaces tends to squeeze out more than seal. Edited November 25, 2020 by pullstart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7935 Posted November 25, 2020 4 minutes ago, pullstart said: Yeah, no. That ain’t right. Well as of right now im on the lookout for a 2nd trans. I dont mind paying even 3 or 4 hundred for a very low hour one. But if i can get a cheap working one thats nice too. Will remove the trans again by the weekend and pull the hubs off, brake clean the whole thing, then drain it. I will bring it inside and pull the pump off. Once it's in pieces i will try to split it open carefully and take a look inside. Im hoping if gears and everything looks good, and its just parking pawls dragging i can just removed it all together then clean out trans and reassemble. I think by the sound of i could have it all done in 1 weekend with parts on hand. If this machine didnt have a loader on it i would have already passed it on to another owner with these issues. But to me i think it's worth trying to properly fix it. Especially since the k301 engine on it seems wicked nice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7936 Posted November 25, 2020 Found a "1970s electro 12" in my area. Same trans? Hes asking 400 for the whole machine, id pay 300 for it. Thatll get me spare rims and tires to run duals, spare front end parts for when i break mine from using the loader, and someone else will enjoy the engine and remaining parts for cheap money once i take what i need. Hopefully one of you knows if its the same as a 68 charger 12. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #7937 Posted November 25, 2020 Yes it the electro tranny will fit. Do not use RTV the little bits that squeeze out inside get trapped in acceleration valve holes and other bad places. Wheel horse parts and more has the case gasket. You can get the hydro unit to transaxle case gasket from Toro. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #7938 Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) This thing you are looking at run??? Before you buy it start it drive it around let it get fully warmed up run it up against a tree/wall or something and she if she will dig holes with the rear wheels... I know you want to get moving but I would recommend you slow down take your time. Fixing 50 yr old machines is not an overnight project especially if the hydro needs work. Edited November 25, 2020 by pfrederi 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,629 #7939 Posted November 25, 2020 9 minutes ago, Jhook said: Found a "1970s electro 12" in my area. Same trans? Hes asking 400 for the whole machine, id pay 300 for it. Thatll get me spare rims and tires to run duals, spare front end parts for when i break mine from using the loader, and someone else will enjoy the engine and remaining parts for cheap money once i take what i need. Hopefully one of you knows if its the same as a 68 charger 12. That's either a 68 or 69 Electro. Not a 70 anything. I'd have to agree with Paul on both slowing down and taking your time and also, I would not buy that Electro for any more than about $200 if you can't run and drive it for a MINIMUM of 15 or 20 minutes. It takes a bit to get up to temperature and the transmission MUST BE TESTED HOT, NOT COLD. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,913 #7940 Posted November 25, 2020 That electric clutch is worth some good coin though, FYI. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7941 Posted November 25, 2020 2 minutes ago, pfrederi said: This thing you are looking at run??? Before you buy it start it drive it around let it get fully warmed up run it up against a tree/wall or something and she if she will dig holes with the rear wheels... I know you want to get moving but I would recommend you slow drown take your time. Fixing 50 yr old machines is not an overnight project especially if eh hydro needs work. Said it needs a coil and will fire right up, i dont even know if these use regular coils or points system or whatever, im not that experienced with older engines. But i would jack it up and listen for noises. Im thinking it would be very nice to have 2 trannys since i will be keeping the machine for a long time. In the case i open mine up and its grenaded inside and full of metal i will have the chance at better trans. I would plan to open both of them up and fix them properly and keep as extra. I would also have a full set of wheel and tires, a spare front axle with spindles and be able to help someone else out that needs a engine, hood, frame, steering wheel, seat, fenders etc. 300 bucks wont set me back on anything that is not a huge financial setback at all right now. What do you think of it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #7942 Posted November 25, 2020 (edited) If it is a battery ignition and all it needs is a coil that isn't a pricey fix. (Which makes me wonder why he didn't do it woudl get a lot more money for a running tractor) However many Electros came with breakerless ignition system their coil (and related trigger) are much pricier. (But can be converted with some cost and effort to a battery type.) Not running $200 ... Edited November 25, 2020 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,629 #7943 Posted November 25, 2020 Just now, pfrederi said: Not running $200 . IIFF <<<<<. The transmission is good that's worth some.. IIFF <<<<<. The electric clutch is good that's worth some. IIFF <<<<<. The engine is good that's worth some. If NONE of those are any good then it would be tough to recapture $300. These are tough old machines and it is PROBABLY worth the Gamble.... But it is just that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7944 Posted November 25, 2020 Kohler K90's leaky throttle valve was soldered, then filed to fit it's bore here today. 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7945 Posted November 25, 2020 To smooth it's operation, finished by polishing in the bore. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7946 Posted November 25, 2020 No slop in it's operation now! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #7947 Posted November 25, 2020 13 minutes ago, AMC RULES said: No slop in it's operation now! Wouldn't the solder wear rather quickly and be right back to where you started from? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7948 Posted November 25, 2020 I don't have the means here to ream this carb body out for a new bushing successfully, so it appears we are going to find out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,459 #7949 Posted November 25, 2020 Just now, AMC RULES said: I don't have the means here to ream this carb body out for a new bushing successfully, so it appears we are going to find out. Send it to me if it doesn't work out. I can fix that. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #7950 Posted November 25, 2020 2 hours ago, cafoose said: Wouldn't the solder wear rather quickly and be right back to where you started from? Depends on the kind of solder used. 60/40, will probably wear quickly. A higher temperature silver solder would be more durable. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
