What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

4 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Some people read instructions...... some throw them away   

Most instructions are in some strange form of Mandaringlish language.   Best to throw them away.

[ebinmaine 67,508]

9 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Some people read instructions...... some throw them away   

What are these...... "instructions"?? 

[19richie66 17,508]

I usually have to dig them back out of the trash 15 minutes into the build. 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

On the old cast iron Mercedes Diesel Engines i learned from an old Mercedes Engine specialist

it was urgently recommended on the Cast Engines tightened in the given shape the Headbolts in 4 Steps.

 

first premount with given 45nm than a settime of 20 mins. Or  on other Engines 1/3 of the finally torque.

Than next step to 70nm, again a settime of 20 min. Or on other engines 1/2 the finally torque

third Step 120nm to the finally torque.

 

premount the Valvesteering fill all liquids up, mount gently the Valvecover and running the Engine for 15 min in idle.

after that let it cool down, dismount the Valvesteering again and retorque the Engine on 120nm. 

if all is done remount the valvesteering again and set the correct final valvegap.

check the Valvegap after 20 hr of running again.

 

I tightened headscrew‘s allway’s that advice since today with great success, independently if Aluminum or Cast Engines.

The old Engine Specialist told me, that the settime is required for the Headgasket to have a chance to fit in the Shape of the Head without grinding it down.

 

 

 

 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

32 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Finally finished some of my fuel filter brackets. Now I only need 4 more. 

Very cool!!

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

17 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

With all due respect, that's not been my experience. 

I've had a few Kohler K Series heads off/on the past few years. 

8 HP through 16 HP. All singles. 

 

Between 1 and 3 bolts gained a bit after a heat cycle on ALL the engines I've done. 

 

I do realize there are different schools of thought on this depending on who you ask.

I've never personally met anyone that doesn't do it but I'm not in the rebuilding or race world. 

 

The way I see it, retorque them. If they move, great. If not, great. You lost nothing but a few minutes of time. 

Right on, I understand where you’re coming from. I’ll admit this IS my first kohler head gasket, and our race bikes were all newer technology... so maybe I’m completely wrong, it’s happens daily, just ask my wife. 😂

[19richie66 17,508]

3 minutes ago, KrazeyOlDave said:

Very cool!!

Thank you sir.  

[Tractorhead 9,064]

45 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Finally finished some of my fuel filter brackets. Now I only need 4 more. 

 

Great solution to keep filters in place with a nice lookout.👍

[Jhook 849]

Got home from a weekend away today and good news, confirmed the trans leak is from the motion control lever, parts should be on the way from a member here. Got the foot board and belt cover off ready to replace the seals. Played around with the loader a bit today. Still a lot of work to do building a sub frame. And i have almost no traction so i will be adding loaded rear ag tires, and possibly duals. Also a weight bucket on the rear and wheel weights. Plan to add about 350 pounds. 

[Jhook 849]

[Pullstart 62,889]

@Jhook is that current K-member welded to the frame?  Good news that you confirmed the leak!  

[Jhook 849]

Just now, pullstart said:

@Jhook is that current K-member welded to the frame?  Good news that you confirmed the leak!  

No. It is welded to pieces of angle iron that sit between the frame rails, and held on with 2 loose bolts on each side. Im going to build a frame that extends far beyond the rear axle, and also houses a weight box. The previous owners fab skills are some of the worst i have ever seen and not just cosmetic issues, the welds don't even look solid enough to use

[Pullstart 62,889]

You’ve totally got this!

[rjg854 11,362]

1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

Some people read instructions...... some throw them away   

Instructions are only used if you can't figure it out on your own

[ebinmaine 67,508]

1 hour ago, Jhook said:

almost no traction so i will be adding loaded rear ag tires, and possibly duals

 

TRACTION is about pounds per square inch/foot/etc. 

 

Adding duals will absolutely add WEIGHT. 

 

It may or may not add TRACTION. 

 

Buy a set of good tires that you know will hold a carefully considered future total weight and fill them. Then add metal or other ballast to get to your desired total weight. 

 

Your TRACTION will be better. 

[Jhook 849]

5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

TRACTION is about pounds per square inch/foot/etc. 

 

Adding duals will absolutely add WEIGHT. 

 

It may or may not add TRACTION. 

 

Buy a set of good tires that you know will hold a carefully considered future total weight and fill them. Then add metal or other ballast to get to your desired total weight. 

 

Your TRACTION will be better. 

Thanks for the info good point. if i add duals, all 4 tires will be loaded. This will add more counterweight this way. About 65 pounds of ballast across 4 tires, which will require less weight mounted to the weight box, resulting in less stress on the axles(i believe) if im correct having weight inside the tires does not stress the axle bearings any more than an empty tire, but suspended rear weights do add stress the the bearings. Regardless i will need both a weight box and loaded tires, but i would prefer to have as little weight as possible mounted behind the rear axle in the weight box. I could be totally wrong though about the stress on axles. Im sure 100 pounds or less in a box should be fine 

[ebinmaine 67,508]

6 minutes ago, Jhook said:

Thanks for the info good point. if i add duals, all 4 tires will be loaded. This will add more counterweight this way. About 65 pounds of ballast across 4 tires, which will require less weight mounted to the weight box, resulting in less stress on the axles(i believe) if im correct having weight inside the tires does not stress the axle bearings any more than an empty tire, but suspended rear weights do add stress the the bearings. Regardless i will need both a weight box and loaded tires, but i would prefer to have as little weight as possible mounted behind the rear axle in the weight box. I could be totally wrong though about the stress on axles. Im sure 100 pounds or less in a box should be fine 

I believe your thought process on the axle bearing stress is accurate. 

If you can get Rimguard fluid you'll have about 55 lbs of fluid PER 8.5 tire so 220 pounds of liquid ballast. 

Others could comment on the weight holding capacity of the hitch but I believe many use 200 or 300 lb counter weights all the time with little to no adverse effect. 

 

 

[Jhook 849]

11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I believe your thought process on the axle bearing stress is accurate. 

If you can get Rimguard fluid you'll have about 55 lbs of fluid PER 8.5 tire so 220 pounds of liquid ballast. 

Others could comment on the weight holding capacity of the hitch but I believe many use 200 or 300 lb counter weights all the time with little to no adverse effect. 

 

 

Hopefully i can fit 10.5s, im not even sure what size tires the machine has now. The deestone 23x9.5s on my 315-8 tractor 12 inch rims went from 30 pounds to 96 pounds with ballast added. 66 pounds per tire added. 2 gallons of rv antifreeze and just over 6 gallons of water per tire. Need to look closer at the rims on the charger 12 before i choose tires, i dont like running tubes so if the rims are really rotted i will search for a clean set that will hold liquid without tubes. 

Edited November 23, 2020 by Jhook

[Ed Kennell 38,178]

Agree the wheel weights and filled tires do not add any radial load to the axle bearings.

I have no experience with FELs, but simple geometry tells me adding a FEL to a tractor decreases the load on the rear axles and bearings  and increases the load on the front spindles and wheel bearings.     

Traction can be increased by adding weight and/or increasing the surface contact area(adding duals).   Just remember the traction is the shear pin that must break before an axle breaks, a hub key shears, or a drive gear tooth breaks.

Dual wheels should increase traction and increase stability with the wider stance.

Increasing weight on the rear wheels will increase traction and also increase rolling momentum with the heavier flywheel effect.    This will increase starting and stopping forces.

 

[953 nut 55,243]

2 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

settime of 20 mins. Or  on other Engines 1/3 of the finally torque.

Than next step to 70nm, again a settime of 20 min.

Sounds like a government job there,          lots of sitting around factored into the job planning sequence.             

[ebinmaine 67,508]

17 minutes ago, Jhook said:

2 gallons of rv antifreeze and just over 6 gallons of water per tire

I know for a fact you can use 10.5s if the backspacing is correct... Then just adjust the dual setup spacing as needed. 

I had 10.5 tires on my 1267 for a bit. 

 

So your fill amount of fluid in the tire must be near 100%. That's very good.  

 

[ebinmaine 67,508]

12 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

wider stance

For some reason that reminded me. 

I've read multiple times that the outer tire should have less air pressure to keep some of the tension off the axles. 

 

@Jhook if your intending to use only fluid and no air I'm not sure how to address this. Maybe add a little air to the inside tires only ?

Maybe it doesn't matter as much with a fluid filled tire?

 

 

[Jhook 849]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

For some reason that reminded me. 

I've read multiple times that the outer tire should have less air pressure to keep some of the tension off the axles. 

 

@Jhook if your intending to use only fluid and no air I'm not sure how to address this. Maybe add a little air to the inside tires only ?

Maybe it doesn't matter as much with a fluid filled tire?

 

 

Im not sure either but i will start with single rear wheels loaded with no wheel weights cause i dont have any yet that arent being used, then i will work my way up as i go. I will test the machine out and add weights as needed until i feel that it functions well. Id like to have as little weight as possible because every unnecessary pound is more work for the machine which is already being worked hard by moving a FEL around. Im going to need to upgrade the front spindles as well but havent done any research yet as to which parts are compatible with the 68 charger 12 front end. The machine almost tipped over on me today a few times with an empty bucket and a very mellow side-slope, maybe there is a wider front axle ir spindles that will fit 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,562]

8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

For some reason that reminded me. 

I've read multiple times that the outer tire should have less air pressure to keep some of the tension off the axles. 

I ran the WHrat WHrecker duals with less pressure based on the same posts... 

 

[ebinmaine 67,508]

3 minutes ago, Jhook said:

almost tipped

ALWAYS travel with the bucket as low as possible. 

NEVER use the FEL on a side lean more than the machine is rated. That won't be much. 

 

The ballast will make a HUGE difference in stability.