AMC RULES 37,130 #7301 Posted October 27, 2020 On to the next today! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7302 Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) While, at the same time, the build up of the last one begins! Edited October 27, 2020 by AMC RULES 6 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #7303 Posted October 27, 2020 and all the parts that went through the blast cabinet today. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bow_Extreme 544 #7304 Posted October 27, 2020 On 10/26/2020 at 5:44 PM, pullstart said: Showed Mrs. P the newest member of her collection... Thank you so much, @Bow_Extreme for your leg work in this matter! I didn’t do much. You made the purchase happen! I hope she really likes it!! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,058 #7306 Posted October 27, 2020 Me and the little WheelHorse crazy kid worked on his snow machine more today. Almost there. 4 4 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,833 #7307 Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) So Kev and I worked out a little deal... a trade for a 401 for a 701 motor WITH the belt guard. Well like any other motor that comes through my shop I expected to have to do machine work and go through the whole shebang. Stripped it down abit and found this.... Oil looked like new, cross hatching in the bore???? How often do you find that??? Barely carboned ...... somebody musta went through it befor Pullstart scored it. Guy has to wonder why it was taken out of service and what happened to the rest of the tractor? . A good cleaning and some paint she'll be good to go for my 701 project! I sorta feel bad now ...the 401 needed a three piece refresh and some other love...... oh thats right it's Kev..... NOT. Edited October 28, 2020 by WHX24 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7308 Posted October 28, 2020 Predator is mounted and started it up for the first time. But due to this tractor not coming with a belt guard (and the engine being swapped out) i wasnt able to drive it. Gears grind trying to put it in gear. Will have to fab up a belt guard/stop tomorrow. Any ideas? Looks good next to the big 315. Im not sure whether to run the belt under or over the idler pulley. Works both ways but slightly looser when ran underneath. Any input on a belt stop is appreciated! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,913 #7309 Posted October 28, 2020 1/4” rods bent to stop the belt near the engine pulley? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,833 #7310 Posted October 28, 2020 Not sure what I am looking at here Hook but why even run the idler at all? If you do run it under change to a v pully. Looks like you should also take off that implement foot lever. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7311 Posted October 28, 2020 23 minutes ago, pullstart said: 1/4” rods bent to stop the belt near the engine pulley? Can you elaborate more please? Im intrigued Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7312 Posted October 28, 2020 25 minutes ago, WHX24 said: Not sure what I am looking at here Hook but why even run the idler at all? If you do run it under change to a v pully. Looks like you should also take off that implement foot lever. Yes the foot lever should be removed i agree as it will never be used. Also i hadnt considered running it without the idler. It came that way. I will definitely try it without the idler before i work any further on making a stopper for it. Thanks for the input Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,833 #7314 Posted October 28, 2020 7 minutes ago, Jhook said: . Thanks for the input It came that way Your Hook...... yes lose the implement lever if it will never be used. Also another piece of advise is NEVER go by what a PO might have done. Only him and the Good Lord might have known what he was thinkin . Just listen to the fellas here they will always steer you in the right direction. If you have a stantard clutch/brake setup on the left side go with that and ditch the idler BS. It is common practice to use rods bent at angles and attached to the motor as a belt brake. Proper belt guards may accomplish the same thing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,227 #7315 Posted October 28, 2020 All of the above. It appears the PO may have added the idler with the belt on top to compensate for a too long belt. If you remove the idler and get the correct length belt and add some type of support to the bottom loop of the belt, the belt will stop when declutched. You could also add a belt retainer to the tensioning idler. When it is positioned correctly, it pinches the belt and prevents it from moving. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7316 Posted October 28, 2020 59 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: All of the above. It appears the PO may have added the idler with the belt on top to compensate for a too long belt. If you remove the idler and get the correct length belt and add some type of support to the bottom loop of the belt, the belt will stop when declutched. You could also add a belt retainer to the tensioning idler. When it is positioned correctly, it pinches the belt and prevents it from moving. So just drag (friction) on the bottom long section of the belt is enough to stop it when clutched? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7317 Posted October 28, 2020 1 hour ago, WHX24 said: Your Hook...... yes lose the implement lever if it will never be used. Also another piece of advise is NEVER go by what a PO might have done. Only him and the Good Lord might have known what he was thinkin . Just listen to the fellas here they will always steer you in the right direction. If you have a stantard clutch/brake setup on the left side go with that and ditch the idler BS. It is common practice to use rods bent at angles and attached to the motor as a belt brake. Proper belt guards may accomplish the same thing. great thank you very much will look into that tomorrow for sure! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,227 #7318 Posted October 28, 2020 2 minutes ago, Jhook said: So just drag (friction) on the bottom long section of the belt is enough to stop it when clutched? Yes, I believe it would. if the bottom loop is supported and the top loop is slack, the drive pulley will not be able to grip the belt. If the belt still wants to move, you could add the belt retainer clip to the idler/tension pulley, But you must support the bottom loop of the belt so it does not sag and allow the belt to contact the drive pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7319 Posted October 28, 2020 4 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Yes, I believe it would. if the bottom loop is supported and the top loop is slack, the drive pulley will not be able to grip the belt. If the belt still wants to move, you could add the belt retainer clip to the idler/tension pulley, But you must support the bottom loop of the belt so it does not sag and allow the belt to contact the drive pulley. A piece of 1 inch angle iron directly 1/8 inch under the belt from the trans pulley to the engine pulley should do? Then obviously once i determine if that works i can build a cover that looks nice 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #7320 Posted October 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Jhook said: A piece of 1 inch angle iron directly 1/8 inch under the belt from the trans pulley to the engine pulley should do? Then obviously once i determine if that works i can build a cover that looks nice Just to have an imagination, how it shall be. the lower pict shows the tounge better. btw : for the predators also friction clutches available, maybe another Way to go. Like an Automatic transmission. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,636 #7321 Posted October 28, 2020 7 hours ago, Jhook said: A piece of 1 inch angle iron directly 1/8 inch under the belt from the trans pulley to the engine pulley should do? Then obviously once i determine if that works i can build a cover that looks nice That might be enough by itself to fix the issue. When you release the tension using the clutch pulley the belt becomes very slack. The bottom of the belt will sag. Keeping it from doing so forces the belt FORWARD instead of down thereby releasing tension on the engine (drive) pulley. I have had one tractor that I had to add a belt top support as well because it wanted to drop there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7322 Posted October 28, 2020 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: That might be enough by itself to fix the issue. When you release the tension using the clutch pulley the belt becomes very slack. The bottom of the belt will sag. Keeping it from doing so forces the belt FORWARD instead of down thereby releasing tension on the engine (drive) pulley. I have had one tractor that I had to add a belt top support as well because it wanted to drop there. The top support was underneath the top loop of the belt? Just trying to get a good grasp on this so i can get all the big work done at the company shop, they have more fabrication tools here than i do so i can get everything up and have it welded here then take it home to mount it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7323 Posted October 28, 2020 Thanks for the pic i see the little rod sitting under the belt. Id prefer not to have a friction clutch and keep it the original way. I havent had good luck with those lasting a long time and they are pretty expensive. Around 50-100 bucks for a good one to only get maybe 25 hours out of it. And that would prevent me from being able to move the machine at less than 1/2 throttle or so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,833 #7324 Posted October 28, 2020 Looks like you may have somewhat of a belt stop there now?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,323 #7325 Posted October 28, 2020 11 hours ago, Jhook said: Will have to fab up a belt guard/stop tomorrow. Any ideas? I made a belt guard for a Predator powered by attaching a piece of angle iron above and below the belt and then pop riveted a piece of sheet metal to them. That tractor is long gone and no photos, 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
