ebinmaine 67,540 #7026 Posted October 12, 2020 42 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Good info Mike. We should also note, unlike baling wire and duct tape, these zippy ties are non-corrosive and waterproof. I hate to get all "rock paper scissors" on you here Ed but it is also important to note that although not waterproof, the bailing wire or mechanics wire is far more resistant to the highly damaging ultraviolet rays of the sun.. 1 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,186 #7027 Posted October 12, 2020 9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I hate to get all "rock paper scissors" on you here Ed but it is also important to note that although not waterproof, the bailing wire or mechanics wire is far more resistant to the highly damaging ultraviolet rays of the sun.. True Eric, but have you seen the Squonk's analysis on white and black zip ties. It's clear only black zip ties should be used for repairs on outside working tractors. White or black will work on the museum Queens that never venture out into the sunlight. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,663 #7028 Posted October 12, 2020 I went with an earler fix, didn't use bailing wire, ducktape or zipties. I used a big hammer when mine came apart good for a year of unlimited miles. Then I moved up to ss sieel brass lined heims joints. I know they are good for 31 years of unlimited miles and they are still tight. I even put some ss steel brass lined heims joints on the control rod of my hydro when I installed a new cam and cam plate. Thats good stuff Ed, but electric fence wire is on the farm now. You fellows arn't keeping up with times. p used a big 6 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #7029 Posted October 12, 2020 4 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: True Eric, but have you seen the Squonk's analysis on white and black zip ties. It's clear only black zip ties should be used for repairs on outside working tractors. White or black will work on the museum Queens that never venture out into the sunlight. 1 hour ago, squonk said: The white tie straps are good for 6 month's or 6000 miles. The black have better uv ratings and are good for 2 years unlimited miles. I did actually miss that post. Thank you for bringing to my attention. It's good to know that we have multiple options there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,186 #7030 Posted October 12, 2020 Well, this has been fun while waiting for the hurricane to move on, but think I better find something productive to do. This guy on my front porch is also losing it. Happy Halloween from Heads up Harry. 1 8 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #7031 Posted October 12, 2020 1 hour ago, pullstart said: to RedSquare and for becoming a supporting member so soon! A cheap and very good fix for these tie rods is the Earl McEvers fix! The late Earl McEvers was in his 90’s when he showed me these clips that could be placed on old tie rods that had worn connections. I have used them on some of my older tractors and they work great. You might buy newer tie rods but these clips would cost you a fraction of the $ to make. 8 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,663 #7032 Posted October 12, 2020 15 hours ago, Bostman67 said: I did some exploring into some of the issues I may be facing with my recent purchased of a 1277 Wheel Horse from 1967. That was an amateur at a good farm fix with bailing wire. I'll have to say he was improving with the left tie rod on the triangle. . 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
echris 1,425 #7033 Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: It's clear only black zip ties should be used for repairs on outside working tractors. I wouldn't necessarily hang my hat on that. I ordered a bunch of 4" black ties from Monoprice.com to use for computer wire harnesses. They seemed really nice and flexible when I opened the bag. They sat on my bench in a bin under a fluorescent lamp. After a few months they became so brittle they would snap when you used them. I looked at a new bag and it said, "Do not open until ready for use" Here's a bag. Edited October 12, 2020 by echris 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,663 #7034 Posted October 12, 2020 4 minutes ago, echris said: I wouldn't necessarily hang my hat on that. I ordered a bunch of 4" black ties from Monoprice.com to use for computer wire harnesses. They seemed really nice and flexible when I opened the bag. They sat on my bench in a bin under a fluorescent lamp. After a few months they became so brittle they would snap when you used them. I looked at a new bag and it said, "Do not open until ready for use" Here's a bag. It also said "Made in China". 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #7035 Posted October 12, 2020 It also says NYLON66, that is a lie because it would have good UV resistance if it were. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #7036 Posted October 12, 2020 They be available in different quality sizes. maybe they be extremely cheap ? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,008 #7037 Posted October 12, 2020 13 hours ago, echris said: I convinced my father-in-law years ago that nobody needs to go swimming to install or remove the docks. He has a typical design, dock brackets with ~1 1/2" steel pipe. We used a foam float about 4'x2'x1'. To install, lay the float in the water, lay the dock section on top, ratchet strap the two together and float the dock into position. Secure the new section to the nearest shore dock section, lay decking down, walk out with your pipe, and drive it in. Level the section, secure the set screw. Repeat. Same goes for removing. No need for swimming. And also, I am using dock hardware manufactured by Tommy Dock. Neat system, but they are very proud of their product$. They do offer 'flotation logs' and a winch to install and remove the dock sections as you describe. Got to thinking about that system while I was working yesterday. My dock sections have three 2x6 stringers topped with 5/4 deck boards, so they are pretty heavy. They will need to be floated into position along side the sections already installed. A couple sheets of 2" pink or blue foam, my come along, and some 2x4's might make a reasonable copy. Something to put off and consider next spring 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,008 #7038 Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) 13 hours ago, echris said: I convinced my father-in-law years ago that nobody needs to go swimming to install or remove the docks. He has a typical design, dock brackets with ~1 1/2" steel pipe. We used a foam float about 4'x2'x1'. To install, lay the float in the water, lay the dock section on top, ratchet strap the two together and float the dock into position. Secure the new section to the nearest shore dock section, lay decking down, walk out with your pipe, and drive it in. Level the section, secure the set screw. Repeat. Same goes for removing. No need for swimming. And also, Computer glitch. Sorry about the double post. I am using dock hardware manufactured by Tommy Dock. Neat system, but they are very proud of their product$. They do offer 'flotation logs' and a winch to install and remove the dock sections as you describe. Got to thinking about that system while I was working yesterday. My dock sections have three 2x6 stringers topped with 5/4 deck boards, so they are pretty heavy. They will need to be floated into position along side the sections already installed. A couple sheets of 2" pink or blue foam, my come along, and some 2x4's might make a reasonable copy. Something to put off and consider next spring Edited October 12, 2020 by 8ntruck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7039 Posted October 12, 2020 changed hydro fluid in gt14 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7040 Posted October 12, 2020 Tried to put video up off of you tube and cant figure it out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,129 #7041 Posted October 12, 2020 21 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: Tried to put video up off of you tube and cant figure it out... Copy the video url and paste it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7042 Posted October 12, 2020 18 minutes ago, squonk said: Copy the video url and paste it Where do you find that url Ive copied and pasted before but I cant seem to figure it out..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7044 Posted October 12, 2020 success had to get on my chromebook and do it still aint figured iphone out yet.... 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #7045 Posted October 12, 2020 You better lay in a few extra cans of gas. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7046 Posted October 12, 2020 3 minutes ago, lynnmor said: You better lay in a few extra cans of gas. LOL.thats my niece pulling pilot duty,she started on my 73 no name 12hp but said she likes this one the best . 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #7047 Posted October 12, 2020 Funny how most girls / guys dont know or remember the REAL names Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jhook 849 #7048 Posted October 12, 2020 More winter prep today. Started loading my tires and have 1 done as of now. Went from 30 pounds to 96 pounds at 12psi tubeless. Quite a bit of weight should help with plowing 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,540 #7049 Posted October 12, 2020 34 minutes ago, lynnmor said: You better lay in a few extra cans of gas. Agreed. Super cool !!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 552 #7050 Posted October 12, 2020 19 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: Funny how most girls / guys dont know or remember the REAL names I think thats what they called the 1973 year tractors the no name tractors cause all they had was the hp decal on them(10hp,12hp,14hp,16hp) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites