The Tuul Crib 7,336 #3876 Posted January 11, 2020 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Trina and her mom spent a few hours moving the rest of the firewood from the upper yard in the shed to the basement. 5 loads in the Ohio Steel brand trailer tugged by her 867. I spent a lot of the day in the outdoor workshop moving/organizing/cleaning then took apart the 1267/1287 mongrel so I can shelf some of the stuff and use the 8 speed transmission for the Colossus project. Eric I'm sure now that trailer that I have is an Ohio steel wagon. I am in the process still stripping it down and going to paint it soon. I'm thinking about putting truck bed liner on the inside. Got some custom decals ordered from the vinyl Guy to finish it off. Heres a small preview. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,247 #3877 Posted January 12, 2020 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: The GT-14 is fighting me.. I had to seperate the case and differential then use the twenty ton press to get one of my hubs off. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordyhogg 150 #3878 Posted January 12, 2020 I tried mowing with my 656 engine swap project but sprung an oil leak so i put the deck back on the 312-8 to finish...i know its the middle of january in western pa but it was almost 70 today and the grass was left long enough when it got cold to bug me 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3879 Posted January 12, 2020 Replaced the rear axle seals. Now just waiting to get the wheels and hubs back and I'll be able to drive it around. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #3880 Posted January 12, 2020 Finally made the carburetor adapter from Briggs to carter from kholer using original oil bath air cleaner and throttle cable. I need to make a cable clamp. I filled carb with gas and fired first pull. I had a lot of trouble getting the kholer to run, least this briggs looks very similar to keep the factory look. Plus I have a pull start now not a rap and tug 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shed 248 #3881 Posted January 14, 2020 Not a whole lot done but just a view from a far looking like a tractor again I installed the new kill switch for more child safety it can but shut off left or right 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #3883 Posted January 14, 2020 Maybe we need to open a topic "What I haven't gotten done on my Wheel Horse" Have soaked the hub for a couple days used the air chisel on it for awhile (that has helped on some exhaust fittings) no help on the hub. Dragged out the torch smoked up the office but no movement. Going to soak it some more but after another couple days guess I will have to split the tranny disassemble the differential get the axle and hub out and over to the 20 ton press and hope for better luck. The hub on the leaky side slid right off is cleaned up and has her studs and lug nuts.... 5 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3884 Posted January 14, 2020 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: Maybe we need to open a topic "What I haven't gotten done on my Wheel Horse" Have soaked the hub for a couple days used the air chisel on it for awhile (that has helped on some exhaust fittings) no help on the hub. Dragged out the torch smoked up the office but no movement. Going to soak it some more but after another couple days guess I will have to split the tranny disassemble the differential get the axle and hub out and over to the 20 ton press and hope for better luck. The hub on the leaky side slid right off is cleaned up and has her studs and lug nuts.... Have you tried cinching the nut down on the puller really tight and then hitting the end of the bolt with the air hammer? I've had pretty good success with that on stubborn things before. Where did you get the stud kit? I'd like to do that with mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #3885 Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) I’m not sure what your Outside Temps are, but maybe it helps a bit cooling it down firstly before heating, to get more Temp difference. edit- for electronic devices there is a freezer spray available to test circuits, maybe it helps to shook the Axle after preheating with a hard sprayer whilst using the impactwrench, to loosen. But mostly a second fella is for that Action recommanded to help. I don’t know if you the first owner, maybe PO has set behind a hidden small welding Spot to keep it in place? just a thought. Edited January 14, 2020 by Tractorhead Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,516 #3886 Posted January 14, 2020 2 minutes ago, oilwell1415 said: Where did you get the stud kit? I'd like to do that with mine. I'm not sure about on a GT 14 but the regular other 5 lug hubs are a 7/16 fine bolt and the lug nut you can use from like a mid-60s GM car. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3887 Posted January 14, 2020 14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'm not sure about on a GT 14 but the regular other 5 lug hubs are a 7/16 fine bolt and the lug nut you can use from like a mid-60s GM car. Thanks. That was my original plan, but I thought this was an actual stud kit. I'll just move forward with bolts and nuts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,006 #3888 Posted January 16, 2020 We are at our 'alternate location' for a few days, so I had a chance to get out into the shed and measure up the rear Tach-a-Matic mount in preparation for making a receiver hitch. The plan is to replace the upper mounting clamps for the Tach-a-Matic with a angle iron and bar stock or tube weldment with the receiver hitch. I'm toying around with the idea of using 2" square tube as the cross member, then casting it full of lead. Seems like a good way to add some weight for improved traction. Pullstart - One of the new tires we mounted has leaked down. I'm going to guess one of the beads didn't seal completely. When I get a chance, I'll air the tire back up and soap test around the rims. I'm expecting to have to break the beads and give them and the rims a cleaning. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,897 #3889 Posted January 16, 2020 That’s a bummer we didn’t get them both sealed! If need be, a bead of silicone has helped me in the past... or I have a can of bead sealer glue somewhere around here too. The hitch idea sounds wonderful! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,516 #3890 Posted January 16, 2020 9 hours ago, 8ntruck said: The plan is to replace the upper mounting clamps for the Tach-a-Matic with a angle iron and bar stock or tube weldment with the receiver hitch. I'm toying around with the idea of using 2" square tube as the cross member, then casting it full of lead. Seems like a good way to add some weight for improved traction I've seen pictures of that done before. Seems to work well. Just be sure to use fairly thick angle iron. I like the idea of filling the square tube. Extra weight certainly won't hurt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,508 #3891 Posted January 16, 2020 (edited) 53 minutes ago, pullstart said: If need be, a bead of silicone has helped me in the past... #2 Aviation Permatex in the brush/can works great too. Edited January 16, 2020 by 19richie66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #3892 Posted January 16, 2020 Gave the impact wrench and a couple wacks with a BFA another try no movement. Took took the rear off got it up on work table and split it so i could disassemble the differential and get the axle and hub out. I have a home made stand that I use on trannies but wouldn't work with the hub still on. Found one needle bearing had cratered but Parking pawl was in excellent shape. Glad the GT-14 has long axles and the hub sets out from the housing.. I was able to drive the stuck axle in some so I could get a wrench behind the differential to hold the bolts while I took the nuts of. Would have been very hard to do if that inward push wasn't possible. Charger/Electros do not have that extra axle length to play with. Hope I never have to do this on one of them. Stood stuck axle /hub up and will apply more bug juice before i put it in the press.. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #3893 Posted January 16, 2020 Good work Paul, sounds like a extremly hard sitting Hub. I think about the reason, what can be happen to fix that hub that strong except just rust. So i thought may it be possible, that the Keyway has a bit deformed into the hub and Stick on rust now. If so, just a pull will maybe destroy it. did you try a bit twisting on the Hub with stronger pliers, while the Hub on light pulling force prespaned? ( i hope you understand my bad description) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,006 #3894 Posted January 16, 2020 8 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I've seen pictures of that done before. Seems to work well. Just be sure to use fairly thick angle iron. I like the idea of filling the square tube. Extra weight certainly won't hurt. The upper clamp pieces that will be replaced with the hitch look to be 3/8" thick. I'm thinking 2x2x3/8 angle iron for this area of the hitch. Today is pretty much gone, and tomorrow looks pretty full. Hopefully, I'll get the rear attachment removed on Saturday to take back to my 'primary location' where my welder is. The rear attachment will then be used as a welding jig for the hitch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #3895 Posted January 16, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, pfrederi said: Gave the impact wrench and a couple wacks with a BFA another try no movement. Took took the rear off got it up on work table and split it so i could disassemble the differential and get the axle and hub out. I have a home made stand that I use on trannies but wouldn't work with the hub still on. Found one needle bearing had cratered but Parking pawl was in excellent shape. Glad the GT-14 has long axles and the hub sets out from the housing.. I was able to drive the stuck axle in some so I could get a wrench behind the differential to hold the bolts while I took the nuts of. Would have been very hard to do if that inward push wasn't possible. Charger/Electros do not have that extra axle length to play with. Hope I never have to do this on one of them. Stood stuck axle /hub up and will apply more bug juice before i put it in the press.. Be careful with hat parking prawl Paul! Putting that back took me a couple times to line halves of case up on a B100 hydro rebuild last year. Edited January 17, 2020 by Lane Ranger 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,897 #3896 Posted January 17, 2020 @pfrederi Could you soak that hub and axle in a container of used oil, diesel or kerosene? I have freed up a few of the big AC snap coupler parts using that method... soaking for weeks or months before looking at them again... but they came out smelling and looking like an oil soaked rose! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3897 Posted January 17, 2020 17 hours ago, Tractorhead said: G So i thought may it be possible, that the Keyway has a bit deformed into the hub and Stick on rust now. If so, just a pull will maybe destroy it. I had a similar thought last night. Sometimes keys get lost and instead of replacing it with the correct one they just use a straight key because it's easier. If you put a straight key in the slot for a half round key it will work, but when you try to pull it off it can wedge the key in the slot like a one way bearing. The harder you pull it, the harder it grips until something fails. Might be worth it to try to push the hub a little farther onto the axle to see if it will move that way. If it will, it may be easier and safer to take if off that way if there aren't any larger sections of the axle blocking it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3898 Posted January 17, 2020 My yesterday activities for the tractor yesterday were to pick up the wheels from the powder coater, get the studs for the rear wheels, and mount 3 of the 4 tires. Hopefully I'll get the last tire mounted tonight, chase the threads in the hubs, and get the studs installed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,739 #3899 Posted January 17, 2020 5 minutes ago, oilwell1415 said: I had a similar thought last night. Sometimes keys get lost and instead of replacing it with the correct one they just use a straight key because it's easier. If you put a straight key in the slot for a half round key it will work, but when you try to pull it off it can wedge the key in the slot like a one way bearing. The harder you pull it, the harder it grips until something fails. Might be worth it to try to push the hub a little farther onto the axle to see if it will move that way. If it will, it may be easier and safer to take if off that way if there aren't any larger sections of the axle blocking it. I doubt this hub has ever been off.. I will try pounding it in a bit. But it hasn't moved 1mm since i started this. Looking in the set screw hole there doesn't seem to be an deformation Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #3900 Posted January 17, 2020 53 minutes ago, pfrederi said: I doubt this hub has ever been off.. I will try pounding it in a bit. But it hasn't moved 1mm since i started this. Looking in the set screw hole there doesn't seem to be an deformation It's definitely a long shot. I've only had it happen to me one time and after destroying the pulley I found out it isn't all that uncommon. Another thing you can try if you have a punch that will do it is insert it in the key slot and tap the key a little bit. But if the hub has never been off it is likely that nature's epoxy is holding it there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites