What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[kpinnc 13,717]

3 hours ago, PWL216 said:

drained the transmission gear oil,

 

Did you drain from the plug on the bottom?

 

The side plug leaves about 1.5 quarts of old oil still in the case. You should drain at the 1/4 Allen plug on the bottom of the case. 

[oliver2-44 10,354]

4 hours ago, PWL216 said:

- drained the transmission gear oil

 

That oil looks very milky which means it has water in it. You might want to flush the transmission with diesel or kerosene to clean it out. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. Lift the front end to drain it completely from the bottom plug. 

[Ed Kennell 40,457]

7 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

That oil looks very milky which means it has water in it. You might want to flush the transmission with diesel or kerosene to clean it out. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. Lift the front end to drain it completely from the bottom plug. 

 

 Ed Kennell  40,378

Replied: April 3

If your transmission shows any sign of water (a tan milky look) or dark thick oil, you should definitely flush it with kerosene or diesel.

Raise the front of the tractor as high as safely possible when draining to get the oil over the center hump to the drain hole.

 

1. Drain the old oil

2. Fill with kero or diesel

3. If it is running, drive it slowly in tight figure 8s using all forward and reverse gears. If it is not running, jack up one wheel and rotate that wheel by hand both directions while using all the gears.  Repeat this with the other wheel raised.  The goal is to rotate and wash all the gears and bearings.

4. Raise the front and drain the kero.  If it is really black and dirty, I would repeat steps 2. and 3. till the kero comes out clean.

5. Then I like to fill with cheap low viscosity motor oil and repeat step 3.

6. Drain the light oil and fill with 90 wt rear oil.

 

BTW, I save the drained kero for washing parts.  And the drained motor oil for rubbing down to preserve the patina on the tins.

 

While each wheel is jacked up, this is a good time to check the axle bearings for movement.  There should be no up/down or front/back movement.   In and out movement is normal up to about 1/16".    The axle seals may leak some of the thin kero.,but should stop with the 90wt oil.  If the bearings check OK and the axle seals do leak oil, the seals can easily be replaced.

 

 

 

[D_Mac 9,136]

The other day I rubbed down this Charger with boiled linseed oil. No room in garage for it so it is left outside. Rain and snow today. Oil doing it's job.

[PWL216 940]

8 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

That oil looks very milky which means it has water in it. You might want to flush the transmission with diesel or kerosene to clean it out. There is a hump in the middle of the bottom of the transmission. Lift the front end to drain it completely from the bottom plug. 

Hi @oliver2-44  @Ed Kennell @kpinncI drained  it only from the side plug. I jacked up the opposite side rear to tilt it and get as much out as I could. I didn’t realize that there was another plug underneath. I’ll do that today. I had also intended to do the diesel flush, so I’ll do both now! Thanks again and much appreciated!

Edited April 16 by PWL216

[kpinnc 13,717]

2 hours ago, PWL216 said:

I jacked up the opposite side rear to tilt it and get as much out as I could. I didn’t realize that there was another plug underneath.

 

The "hump" that you'll hear about is pictured below. So drain from the bottom but also raise the nose of the tractor as far as you can. That will help everything drain from the bottom so you don't have to flush multiple times. 

 

[PWL216 940]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

The "hump" that you'll hear about is pictured below

“I can fix that hump”. “What hump?”

 

sorry, I can never resist a reference to Young Frankenstein😂

[Horsin'round 163]

6 minutes ago, PWL216 said:

 

sorry, I can never resist a reference to Young Frankenstein😂

 

It's pronounced "Fronkensteen"

[kpinnc 13,717]

31 minutes ago, PWL216 said:

sorry, I can never resist a reference to Young Frankenstein😂

 

WHAT KNOCKERS!!!!! 

 

And now we've hijacked a thread. My apologies!

 

 

Edited April 16 by kpinnc

[ebinmaine 70,696]

30 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

 

And now we've hijacked a thread. 

 

 

 

 

Really? Happens so rarely here.

 

 

🙄

 

 

😅

[PWL216 940]

40 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

And now we've hijacked a thread. My apologies!

It’s kinda like we’re Abby Normal

[ebinmaine 70,696]

Found a couple NIIIICE receiver hitches when I got home.  

 

 

 

 

@76c12091520h

 

Thanks Brian!!

[953 nut 57,854]

6 hours ago, kpinnc said:

And now we've hijacked a thread. My apologies!

Of the 23,326 posts on this thread it is my estimation that at least 2,333 have been             and I probably did a couple hundred of them.   

Edited April 16 by 953 nut

[Lee1977 7,036]

14 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Found a couple NIIIICE receiver hitches when I got home.  

 

 

 

 

@76c12091520h

 

Thanks Brian!!

That's the ones that started the receiver hitch.  

Here a different type I build for my raised 312-8.with the 25 x 900 x 12 tires. It's braced off the top of the transmission.

\

 

Edited April 17 by Lee1977

[BenvonCamp 1]

On 1/8/2024 at 6:28 PM, Ed Kennell said:

John has answered your questions.   Yes, the forward force on the lift/push rod is what lifts the blower as it can not move forward but  pivots where it is attached to the tractor and is forced to rotate up.     I tend to use the material I have to do my fab work.    I no longer have single stage snow throwers but in the past I have made missing flags and push rods from unistrut that I had on my scrap pile.   It is important to note the flag device must be inserted in the top hole of the lower lift lever.   This gives the correct amount of forward motion so the blower lifts with minimum amount of force and the correct rotation of the rock shaft and correct lift of the blower.    With the blower and the rock shaft lowered, the distance from the center of the top hole in the rock shaft to the center of the bent lug on the bottom of the blower is the dimension you must use to build a connecting device.    It doesn't really matter how you get there, but this length must be correct.      When I built mine, drilled the unistrut and attached it to the blower lug.  Made two plates from flat bar that were attached by a bolt to each side of the lower rock shaft lever.    With the blower and the rock shaft lowered, clamped the side plates to the unistrut bar.  Took it off and welded it.

 

A crude sketch. of my redneck blower lifter.  The X dim is not important.   I made mine longer than the WH flag.  It worked fine.

 

 

I'm knocking around trying to find a lift rod for my 875 WH with a single stage and saw this lift rod attached to a complete unit for sale.  The OEM price for the rod itself is half of what I paid for the tractor a few weeks ago. Thanks for your diagram. Instead of firing up the Lincoln tombstone welder and doing terrible work to weld the strap steel on the end, do you think pounding tube stock flat, putting in the bend and then drilling the hole would suffice like the photo below? 

 

 

[ebinmaine 70,696]

31 minutes ago, BenvonCamp said:

 

I'm knocking around trying to find a lift rod for my 875 WH with a single stage and saw this lift rod attached to a complete unit for sale.  The OEM price for the rod itself is half of what I paid for the tractor a few weeks ago. Thanks for your diagram. Instead of firing up the Lincoln tombstone welder and doing terrible work to weld the strap steel on the end, do you think pounding tube stock flat, putting in the bend and then drilling the hole would suffice like the photo below? 

 

 

 

 

IMHO...

As long as the tube stock you're using is of sufficient thickness, I'd try it.

[Ed Kennell 40,457]

1 hour ago, BenvonCamp said:

 

I'm knocking around trying to find a lift rod for my 875 WH with a single stage and saw this lift rod attached to a complete unit for sale.  The OEM price for the rod itself is half of what I paid for the tractor a few weeks ago. Thanks for your diagram. Instead of firing up the Lincoln tombstone welder and doing terrible work to weld the strap steel on the end, do you think pounding tube stock flat, putting in the bend and then drilling the hole would suffice like the photo below? 

 

 

 

 

Try it ...use what you have to make it work

[Handy Don 13,340]

3 hours ago, BenvonCamp said:

pounding tube stock flat, putting in the bend and then drilling the hole would suffice like the photo below

I’m 90% sure that’s how WH manufactured them, but using a press instead of a hammer. 

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,472]

416-H all cleaned up, ready for the season

 

Also took the plow off the 8-Speed and put on the 42” SD deck.  After I got the 416-8 running right, this thing is a beast with the 42”, maybe I have to upgrade to a 48” to give a little challenge?

[ineedanother 1,389]

$16.99 at Advance this week! Say no more...

[ebinmaine 70,696]

I got the BIG OTR Lawn Trac 24x12.00-12 tires on the wheels from @midpack

 

 

Also got the Tecumsehorse in the new workshop space. 

FIRST TRACTOR IN THERE! 

 

 

 

That's in there specifically for mounting the rototiller up.  

 

@76c12091520h

Hitch. 

 

 

My own rear Tach-o-matic. 

 

Some tiller pics...

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 70,696]

[midpack 970]

Are the fenders going to fit?

Those are monsters!

[ebinmaine 70,696]

2 minutes ago, midpack said:

Are the fenders going to fit?

Those are monsters!

 

Man they are tall!

 

If you look at the bottom of the tire here..

 

You may be able to see they're completely flat. 

The fender is setting lower than normal because of that. 

 

 

 

 

I believe once the tractor is jacked up there should be JUST enough room. 

 

Probably. 

 

I hope.  

 

[JDMiller 16]

On 4/16/2025 at 11:57 AM, PWL216 said:

“I can fix that hump”. “What hump?”

 

sorry, I can never resist a reference to Young Frankenstein😂

Just made my day, gotta go watch it now! @ebinmaineThose tires are HUGE, you can always add spacers under the fender panel and seat mount holes, easy fender lift to get that clearance.