What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[ML3 1,197]

Made some headway on rat rod Suburban.  Got it running great. It's definitely loud & obnoxious! 

 

Need to do more work on drive belt/clutch. It's still turning transmission when clutch is depressed.....so back to drawing board on that. I have pics attached. 

[953 nut 55,192]

9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

a brighter light above my welded area

I have been doing that for years. A good fluorescent light a foot or so away and white chalk marks to guide you are both a must for me.    Used a LED once and for some reason it wasn't as good as the fluorescent light.

[953 nut 55,192]

4 hours ago, ML3 said:

drive belt/clutch. It's still turning transmission when clutch is depressed.

Try it with the belt guard on.

[ML3 1,197]

9 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Try it with the belt guard on.

There is no belt guard. That's what the bolts atttaced to engine at drive pulley were intended to do. I did same thing on my diesel RJ & it worked.  May have to make some sort of belt guard or tabs to let belt slip more? Or may try to change clutch pulley to type that presses on outside of belt like it does on my RJ diesel? (see pic) It works flawlessly 

Edited January 29 by ML3

[953 nut 55,192]

When you depress the clutch on a Suburban (or any newer ) the built guard catches the slack on the belt stopping it. Try mounting a piece of angel iron under the bottom belt section to do that.

[Ed Kennell 38,145]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

A good fluorescent light a foot or so away and white chalk marks to guide you are both a must for me.

Good idea Richard.  I need to try that.

Edited January 29 by Ed Kennell

[Ed Kennell 38,145]

4 hours ago, ML3 said:

  May have to make some sort of belt guard or tabs to let belt slip more?

One positive way to stop a belt.

 

[ML3 1,197]

56 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

One positive way to stop a belt.

 

Thanks! I'll look into something like that. Hopefully that will work. Belt barely grabs with clutch depressed so it's close. Hopefully my clutch pulley is at a good enough angle? See pics....

[Colby G 233]

Finally got the project tractor going!

[953 nut 55,192]

9 hours ago, ML3 said:

Belt barely grabs with clutch depressed so it's close.

The output shaft of your engine turns counterclockwise and PULLS the belt so if the slack at the bottom is supported by a belt guard it will stop the belt from moving.

[JoeM 7,873]

13 hours ago, 953 nut said:

bottom is supported by a belt guard it will stop the belt from moving.

Or at least a wire support that allows slack to be thrown off the drive pulley. 

[JoeM 7,873]

On 1/28/2024 at 7:53 PM, 953 nut said:

A good fluorescent light a foot or so away and white chalk marks to guide you are both a must for me

Yep, I use soap stone and make a dry run to make sure I can hold the line. 

 

One thing I did was pick up a cheap self darking hood with an adjustable shade. I usually push my mig welds and try to use a lighter shade setting of 10. Also the newer hoods have a slot just for a magnifier. Sometimes on critical stuff I will slide the 1.5 lens in and with my reading glasses it makes it much easier.  

Age sure does change things. 

[BrianKoch 307]

Gentlemen,

 

Today I planned on changing the transmission oil on the ‘69, but came across a seized lug bolt. After many rounds of heat and penetrating oil, I still ended up stripping the head pretty good and no progress to show for it. After that, I cut a notch to try using a big flat head screwdriver. No dice. Think now I’m going to invest in a bolt extractor set. Any recommendations? 
 

Edited January 31 by BrianKoch

[ebinmaine 67,432]

34 minutes ago, BrianKoch said:

Gentlemen,

 

Today I planned on changing the transmission oil on the ‘69, but came across a seized lug bolt. After many rounds of heat and penetrating oil, I still ended up stripping the head pretty good and no progress to show for it. After that, I cut a notch to try using a big flat head screwdriver. No dice. Think now I’m going to invest in a bolt extractor set. Any recommendations? 
 

 

 

Is that a stock Wheelhorse hub?

Looks like there's a locking mechanism in it maybe? 

 

You might be able to replace the part or get a good used hub for less money and/or irritation value than trying to save whatever that hub is.  

 

 

[PWL216 889]

Might be silly question, but have you tried a wrench on a square shaft screwdriver for leverage? This is the main reason I prefer square shaft screwdrivers. Like the below pic but with a square shaft screwdriver.,,

Edited January 31 by PWL216

[Evguy 556]

53 minutes ago, BrianKoch said:

 

Today I planned on changing the transmission oil on the ‘69, but came across a seized lug bolt. After many rounds of heat and penetrating oil, I still ended up stripping the head pretty good and no progress to show for it. After that, I cut a notch to try using a big flat head screwdriver. No dice. Think now I’m going to invest in a bolt extractor set. Any recommendations? 

I’ve had luck using grinder to one faceof the nut, then split the nut with a chisel 

[953 nut 55,192]

59 minutes ago, BrianKoch said:

Any recommendations?

    Could that be a long bolt with a nut on the back?       Try going in a clockwise direction to see if you can make it move a bit then go counterclockwise.

[8ntruck 6,998]

I'vs got some sockets designed to grab hex head nuts/bolts that have the corners rounded off.  Have not had an occasion to use them yet, though.

[Ed Kennell 38,145]

I think you have a welder Brian.  Use a welders magnet to hold a large nut (  3/4 or 1") over the bolt.     Weld them together and turn it out.    

 

 

Just a reminder Brian.  If you weld, make sure you have a good ground as close as possible to the weld area. 

Edited February 1 by Ed Kennell

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

I have a few Irwin sets of extractors.  They are pretty decent.   I have a set for Allen head bolts that I’m not a big fan of but the hex head bolt grappers I have had good luck with 

also what Ed suggested is usually your best bet if you get some good welds on the nut

Edited February 1 by Tonytoro416

[Evguy 556]

15 hours ago, Evguy said:

I’ve had luck using grinder to one faceof the nut, then split the nut with a chisel 

Sorry I thought it was a lugnut, my information is not applicable.

[squonk 41,071]

Picked up a modded Horror Fright motorcycle lift. Has air over hydraulic lift cylinder and Handy Lift side extensions and ramps. Also HD  locking casters on one end 

 

[pfrederi 17,729]

Having the bathroom renovated opine of eh workers has a 312-8 and wanted to see some of my horses, he was interested in a mid mount blade .  So I went down to the barn to get mine out to show him tomorrow. 2015 battery was dead but jump pack solved that. Started cranking 2 mice ran out from the engine shroud followed by a bunch of crap. Brought her up to the shop and you could tell she was getting hot. Vacuumed and blew out a bunch of stuff she is OK  Battery is toast

 

[Handy Don 12,214]

29 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Battery is toast

I think batteries have gone up in price a bunch lately. I need one, too, but I’m “stalling” having seen the prices.

Edited February 1 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 67,432]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

2015 battery

 

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

I think batteries have gone up in price a bunch lately. I need one, too, but I’m “stalling” having seen the prices.

 

We get 300/325 CCA batteries from our favorite local small engine repair shop. 

The labels even read something to do with Maine now.  

 

I believe he charges around $45-$50 this year.  

 

His experiences over that last couple decades show that the average battery life is around 2 to 3 years if not maintained. 3 to 5 if cared for all year.  

 

A 2015 battery is now considered a dinosaur.