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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Brockport Bill said:

 do you think I would still need to weld the crack?? Do you think the angle iron bar has to be welded on, or would just attaching the angle iron with the 2 bolts be sufficient to create strength and stability across the plate? thanks, Bill 

wh 314 h frame plate 2.jpg

 

Because that crack is so extensive AND begins at and edge AND goes almost or even in to the corner...

I'd be VERY LEARY about using that machine in the continued manner and tasks it has been unless that crack welded or frame swapped. 

 

I've added a 90⁰ piece of angle iron into corner of the frame on my Automatic Tractor.  The one I did was from a pic @Lee1977 Don sent me.  

It's bolted to the transmission of course but also to the sides of the frame following the factory bend. 

 

With an addition like I MIGHT keep using the machine as previously used.  

 

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Brockport Bill
6 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Because that crack is so extensive AND begins at and edge AND goes almost or even in to the corner...

I'd be VERY LEARY about using that machine in the continued manner and tasks it has been unless that crack welded or frame swapped. 

 

I've added a 90⁰ piece of angle iron into corner of the frame on my Automatic Tractor.  The one I did was from a pic @Lee1977 Don sent me.  

It's bolted to the transmission of course but also to the sides of the frame following the factory bend. 

 

With an addition like I MIGHT keep using the machine as previously used.  

 

Eric -- do you have any photos of the "fix" you mention or a link anywhere -thanks, Bill

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ebinmaine
27 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

Eric -- do you have any photos of the "fix" you mention or a link anywhere -thanks, Bill

If Lee doesn't pop in with them first I can post them later

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Brockport Bill said:

Eric -- do you have any photos of the "fix" you mention or a link anywhere -thanks, Bill

 

Bill I have measurements somewhere. 

 

He's a pic. 

 

216243800_Screenshot_20240102_184850_Chrome2.jpg.2926c3e32b1d87a80e4107339632b8be.jpg

 

 

After this I added a bolt at the bottom.  

I don't use the factory mower lift bar. 

 

 

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JCM

$ 2.89  :ROTF: @WHX??    Nice paint job on that Kohler  :thumbs:

  • Haha 4

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, JCM said:

$ 2.89  :ROTF: @WHX??    Nice paint   :thumbs:

 

Been around awhile ain't it???

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WHX??
3 minutes ago, JCM said:

$ 2.89  :ROTF: @WHX??    Nice paint job on that Kohler  :thumbs:

RIGHT? I think it came from dad's place after he passed. He had like 4 cans of silver! I'm just trying to use it up.  

The red on the motor Plunge? No less than 3 different colors...:hide: 

Van Sickel in IH red & MF red with a little regal thrown in for good measure. Trying to burn up them 1/4 cans. Just a spare shelf motor anyway case someone blows one up at plow day. 

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Brockport Bill
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Bill I have measurements somewhere. 

 

He's a pic. 

 

216243800_Screenshot_20240102_184850_Chrome2.jpg.2926c3e32b1d87a80e4107339632b8be.jpg

 

 

After this I added a bolt at the bottom.  

I don't use the factory mower lift bar. 

 

 

thanks -- that's terrific solution -- any details would be helpful -- especially if you have measurements so i don't have to climb under tractor with tape measure ( post disc neck surgery). Not being a welder or having any fabrication skills, I'm thinking to have the stock fabricated for me. Any added ideas or insights are always appreciated. Bill 

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ebinmaine
27 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

thanks -- that's terrific solution -- any details would be helpful -- especially if you have measurements so i don't have to climb under tractor with tape measure ( post disc neck surgery). Not being a welder or having any fabrication skills, I'm thinking to have the stock fabricated for me. Any added ideas or insights are always appreciated. Bill 

 

 

Here's a link to the Post where it shows the drawing I followed and some in process pics.

 

 

 

He's the pics after the bolts were all in.  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ebinmaine
ADDED INFO

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Handy Don
14 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

I'm thinking to have the stock fabricated for me. Any added ideas or insights are always appreciated. Bill 

This is another approach. The original of this document came from a forum member (apologies that I don’t remember their handle :sad: edit: @mrc tells me it was @daveoman1966). I’ve reformatted it and added some of my own experience.

WH Frame Plate Fix v2.pdf

Edited by Handy Don
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mrc

handy don,

 

  i believe daveoman is the member that you are referring to.

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Brockport Bill
3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

This is another approach. The original of this document came from a forum member (apologies that I don’t remember their handle :sad:). I’ve reformatted it and added some of my own experience.

WH Frame Plate Fix v2.pdf 420.95 kB · 4 downloads

wow - - thats awesome -- many thanks Don !!!

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Lee1977
8 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

wow - - thats awesome -- many thanks Don !!!

That transmission plate needs to be welded first for a permeant fix. Neither system used will stop that crack they are for reinforcement of the original .. That just my option. 

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johnnymag3
15 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

That crack needs welding then add bracing to keep it from happened again.

I use 1 1/2" x 1/4: steel then grind it on the back side to fit between thoes raised places on the transmission plate.

 SAM-0903.jpg

SAM-0904.jpg

SAM-0915.jpg

Then I weld the braces into the bottom 1 1/2" x 1/4" bar,

This is the CORRECT way to repair this weak area in ALL of the Horses.....putting a flat piece of stock flat on the affected area doesn't do beans !!!  the Triangulation is what's critical...this is done to perfection.   You can also bolt a piece of flat stock to existing holes in frame / plate to achieve similar results    at a 45 degree angle...nice job on this one !!!!

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Handy Don
2 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

This is the CORRECT way to repair this weak area in ALL of the Horses.....putting a flat piece of stock flat on the affected area doesn't do beans !!!  the Triangulation is what's critical...this is done to perfection.   You can also bolt a piece of flat stock to existing holes in frame / plate to achieve similar results    at a 45 degree angle...nice job on this one !!!!

I concur that this is among the strongest approaches, but for many users it may well be more than needed.

 

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Brockport Bill
2 hours ago, matt monte said:

not sure if this counts but im building a tow behind leaf blower. I mocked everything up and welded today. When I shoot red on my B80 chassis that im building, ill paint blower housing red to match, recently media blasted this

 

20231221_175218[1].jpg

20231216_164250[1].jpg

beautiful tractor -- not sure if it's the lighting -- but what red paint color is that???? Looks bright and shiny

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matt monte

not sure if this counts but im building a tow behind leaf blower. I mocked everything up and welded. When I shoot red on my B80 chassis that im building, ill paint blower housing red to match, recently media blasted. In the past i used that Majic paint for 60 bucks a gallon at tsc. Huge mistake, i know better. Was extremely hard to get it to lay out correctly, had to mess with air pressure and thin it out way past what data sheet suggests. I bought a few cans in aerosol form and spray bombed mule drive and trailer hitch 1st. Came out flawless, would never know it was a spray can. So i went for the gallon and shot it with my DeVilbiss hvlp gun. I will say that there tech support was friendly and attempted to help. Tractor still looks pretty because it just sits in shed. 42in deck that i restored with this 308 i put on my 312 mule for daily lawn cutting. In one season it dulled a bit and didnt hold up all that well. The latest restomod will be shot in, i think single stage red from summit racing, with all supplies, almost triple the price. In the process of making a temporary paint booth of my 12x20 shed.

 

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OoPEZoO

Nice looking wheel weights.  I have a decent set of outside steel weights and an OK set of outside plastic/concrete weights, but it seems those inside weights are sure hard to find.  I really like that the outside weights don't stick out past the edge of the tire.  I lost a corner piece of siding on the garage a few years ago when one of the protruding nuts on the plastic weights clipped it while plowing.  I think we are only slated for a few inches of snow this weekend, but I'm looking forward to breaking out the plow

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, OoPEZoO said:

Nice looking wheel weights.  I have a decent set of outside steel weights and an OK set of outside plastic/concrete weights, but it seems those inside weights are sure hard to find.  I really like that the outside weights don't stick out past the edge of the tire.  I lost a corner piece of siding on the garage a few years ago when one of the protruding nuts on the plastic weights clipped it while plowing.  I think we are only slated for a few inches of snow this weekend, but I'm looking forward to breaking out the plow

 

Thanks. 

We like these Bolens weights for all the above reasons.  They're on the heavy side for most 12" weights too. 

We have 3 sets I think and I'd buy more if the price was right.  

 

Those inside weights are from an IHC Cub. They were used on the front of their models. 

Couple sets of those here but the other other set needs minor grinding before they'll fit over a Wheelhorse hub. 

Those are stackable as well, provided of course, one has the space.  

 

Our latest NWS Forecast has us getting about 6-8 inches by Sunday evening. More towards the seacoast.  

 

 

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