What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[AMC RULES 37,130]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

E tank Craig? 

 

Nope...

disposable paint brush.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Quick 20-30 minute process.

[AMC RULES 37,130]

[WHX?? 48,815]

And here you guys thought hanging paper was passing a bad check ... 

A smooth move for installing bearing plates. 

Edited December 31, 2023 by WHX??

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Full disclosure...

 

 

What I discovered...

 

Saving these things isn't even going to be a challenge.

[953 nut 55,194]

5 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Time to throw it on the drill press?

         Much easier to center the drill bit in a phillips head than a broken off 1/4-20.  Drill them out to 1/8" and then 3/16" then chase the threads.   

[Daron1965 644]

Finally mounted the snow plow and tire chains on my B80.   Now just need the snow. 😂

[oliver2-44 9,739]

12 hours ago, WHX?? said:

It was cheap in the jungle. Works just ok. There is a clutch of sorts in it that likes to slip. It came with a bunch of suction cups but mostly for very large valves. Getting the cup to stick to the valve is problematic.

I got it mainly to do a poor man's seat re-facer. 

 

This works too a guy just needs to shorten the hand lapper. A short wood dowel. 

Thanks. I’ve done the wooden lapped in the drill thing. Guess I’ll just stick to that unless anyone else has one that works better. 

[ebinmaine 67,432]

1 hour ago, Daron1965 said:

snow

That's a "four letter word"  😁

[oliver2-44 9,739]

2 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Full disclosure...

 

 

What I discovered...

 

Saving these things isn't even going to be a challenge.

Fill them with some JB Weld. Them mount them in your drill press with a long 1/2” bolt and some spacers. Run drill press on slowest speed and easily sand them smooth. 

[ranger 1,750]

On 12/30/2023 at 10:54 AM, oliver2-44 said:

@WHX?? I’m interested in the valve lapping attachment you have in you drill. I’ve never seen one like that. Looks like it sure would beat a hand lapped. 

I’ve had a couple of these in the past, also one that looks like a hand drill, with a handle on the side that you turn. I’ll find them and post a couple of pic’s. The valve sucker on the  one with the side handle oscillates as you turn the handle, the drill powered one spins until you hold the body of the unit with your hand, to stop it turning, it then also oscillates, (as a lapping stick would if you were lapping a valve by hand). You release the body every few seconds to allow the valve to rotate to a different position, to avoid putting grooves in the valve and seat which could happen if you just spin the valve using a drill. If you have a badly burnt seat, and no seat cutters, you could perhaps use an old valve, cut a slot in the head, solder/ JB weld? a carbide lathe cutting tool insert in the slot at the correct angle and spin the valve in the guide to recut the damaged seat. The seat cutters I use now have this type of insert. 

Edited December 31, 2023 by ranger

[pfrederi 17,729]

Sucess with drilling.  Now i can get the flywheel off and use the drill press to go the helicoil route

 

 

[pfrederi 17,729]

More success

 

 

[ML3 1,197]

Making some more headway on Suburban rat rod. 

[953 nut 55,194]

5 hours ago, pfrederi said:

use the drill press to go the helicoil route

Should be able to start with 1/8" bit and sneak up on to a 13/64 without needing a helicoil. A 1/4-20 tap will knock out the remaining threads.    

[TonyToro Jr. 1,415]

Me and my dad @TonyToro ripped apart the engine in one of my pulling tractors “lunch money” it’s a Raider 14 with a Kohler K-series 14hp. We figured out that it has a good piston connecting rod and crank that is not stock and are all parts from Midwest Super Cub. So now all I have to get is a new aftermarket cam, and new valves then I should be ready for the next pulling season.

[ebinmaine 67,432]

24 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

Me and my dad @TonyToro ripped apart the engine in one of my pulling tractors “lunch money” it’s a Raider 14 with a Kohler K-series 14hp. We figured out that it has a good piston connecting rod and crank that is not stock and are all parts from Midwest Super Cub. So now all I have to get is a new aftermarket cam, and new valves then I should be ready for the next pulling season.

 

 

 

And NO balance gears.  Niiiiice.  

 

 

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,415]

10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

And NO balance gears.  Niiiiice.  

 

 

 

What does that do?

Edited January 1 by TonyToro Jr.

[ebinmaine 67,432]

4 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

What does that do?

Balance gears were installed by the Kohler factory to reduce the inherent vibration of the single cylinder engines. 

After 35+ years we've been seeing more and more of these sets of balance gears causing catastrophic damage to the engines. 

 

Some believe in removing them. Some replace them. 

 

 I took them out of the K341 Kohler that's on my '75 C160 Automatic.  

The vibration is a little more prevalent at higher RPM where the tractor doesn't operate anyway. 

I'll be removing them from my other Kohler K-series as well.  

 

[c-series don 8,689]

Today I fixed the cracked transmission frame plate on my 416-H. I run a 60” deck and a Peco vacuum system on this tractor, and when the bins are full of grass they are HEAVY. So every year when I service and put it away for the winter I check that plate, I know this is the weak link and many have had it crack. Well, it finally happened. I ground out the cracks, welded them shut. Next I replaced the broken 3/4”x1/8” flat stock that was used as a big washer with a piece of 1-1/8x1/8” and added a piece of 3/4”x1/8” as a gusset. 
 While I had it on the lift I replaced the fender pan with a NOS one I picked up at the show this past year. Next I have to fix the throttle cable that keeps creeping down. Tomorrow I will get some nylon washers, drill out the rivet and replace with a nut and bolt.

Edited January 2 by c-series don

[whtractors24 3,116]

Today I started on a 1958 Rj build . This one will be a little different than patina or red paint . I always wanted to do something unique as a show cruiser . The water in the transmission was no extra charge !

[8ntruck 6,998]

On 12/30/2023 at 7:36 PM, 953 nut said:

         Much easier to center the drill bit in a phillips head than a broken off 1/4-20.  Drill them out to 1/8" and then 3/16" then chase the threads.   

Good place to use a left hand twist drill, too - provided your drill press is reversible.

[Wild Bill 633 845]

On 1/1/2024 at 3:46 PM, ebinmaine said:

And NO balance gears.  Niiiiice.

They do not run balance gears in pulling motors due to running high RPMs. And they re-balance the crankshaft to the new piston and connecting rod weight. FYI, The MWSC rod is an I-beam design whereas, the Vogel Manufacturing is a H-beam design, which is better at capturing the splashed oil to lubricate the rod bearing.

Edited January 4 by Wild Bill 633

[ebinmaine 67,432]

1 minute ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

They do not run balance gears in a pulling motors due to running high RPM. And they balance the crankshaft to the new piston and connecting rod weight.  

 

 

Interesting stuff Bill. Thank you. I figured it might have been something like that. I've seen those balancing plates advertised on one of the websites. 

[Brockport Bill 1,661]

19 hours ago, c-series don said:

Today I fixed the cracked transmission frame plate on my 416-H. I run a 60” deck and a Peco vacuum system on this tractor, and when the bins are full of grass they are HEAVY. So every year when I service and put it away for the winter I check that plate, I know this is the weak link and many have had it crack. Well, it finally happened. I ground out the cracks, welded them shut. Next I replaced the broken 3/4”x1/8” flat stock that was used as a big washer with a piece of 1-1/8x1/8” and added a piece of 3/4”x1/8” as a gusset. 
 While I had it on the lift I replaced the fender pan with a NOS one I picked up at the show this past year. Next I have to fix the throttle cable that keeps creeping down. Tomorrow I will get some nylon washers, drill out the rivet and replace with a nut and bolt.

i appreciated C-Series Don's comments and photos for the frame plate repair he did -- so i have a few questions to see any other insights and suggestions how others have addressed this problem???? 

 I don't weld, but i had a neighbor weld one plate for me on a 312-8 that i still have to put back together. I have a another with a similar crack - see photo........ looking at Don's photos earlier in the thread of the bar Don installed i had a few questions??  Don said he got thicker metal material stock than the flat bar stock that's factory??

I assume he welded it on and also used longer bolts? How about as solution me getting a 90 degree piece of angle iron to go under the 2 bolts similar to what Don did -- but installing it as one piece so the angle part of the bar that faces the ground would provide a stronger sheer strength than the "flat" piece that only faces the plate and tranny? Also do you think I would still need to weld the crack?? Do you think the angle iron bar has to be welded on, or would just attaching the angle iron with the 2 bolts be sufficient to create strength and stability across the plate? thanks, Bill