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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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ebinmaine
37 minutes ago, Colby G said:

Idk if it could fit a center cap, as you may be able to see, the center is a bit stretched, and it also has a little cut in it. What I wanted to do was put an old Studebaker wheel on it. Would that be possible?

 

See if you can find the right mounting kit for the Studebaker wheel at some place like Summit or Jegs. That kit will likely have a splined center hole and you may be able to find adapters or as stated above, weld that on.

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Colby G
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

See if you can find the right mounting kit for the Studebaker wheel at some place like Summit or Jegs. That kit will likely have a splined center hole and you may be able to find adapters or as stated above, weld that on.

Ok, I'll have to look, thanks for the info!

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ebinmaine
Just now, Colby G said:

Ok, I'll have to look, thanks for the info!

You keep asking questions. We will keep trying to give you answers..... 

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Colby G
1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

You keep asking questions. We will keep trying to give you answers..... 

I really appreciate it, I'm new to the wheel horse world. This is my 1st wheel horse and I'm trying to fix it up while trying to put some of my own personal touches.

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Colby G
22 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Yes.

Search this site for “remove steering wheel” or “steering wheel removal” (flip the “use all my keywords” switch on and choose “Topics” as the area to search

Numerous threads with info. 

There is either a Spirol or a Roll Pin through the hub of the wheel and the steering shaft. Removing one that’s nature welded (rusted) in place can be a real challenge--one of the WH rites of passage, I’d say, along with a stuck wheel hub or a stuck rear hitch pin.

Is this what I need to get out? If so, how do I get it out?

16904976273858771387208296202505.jpg

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Evguy

I used a flat ended punch after spraying it with penetrating spray, I think I got lucky because it came out with little drama

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Colby G
3 minutes ago, Evguy said:

I used a flat ended punch after spraying it with penetrating spray, I think I got lucky because it came out with little drama

Would you use that with an air gun?

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pfrederi

1/4" roll pin pinch after lots of soaking with the bug juice of your choice. Use a 2x4 to brace the steering column against the wall as you beat on the punch

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JCM
10 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

1/4" roll pin pinch after lots of soaking with the bug juice of your choice. Use a 2x4 to brace the steering column against the wall as you beat on the punch

:text-yeahthat:   Brace makes quite a difference. Different tractor, same procedure.

IMG_1370.JPG

IMG_1369.JPG

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Evguy
23 minutes ago, Colby G said:

Would you use that with an air gun?


I just had standard punch, and a BFH

Edited by Evguy

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Colby G
11 minutes ago, Evguy said:


I just had standard punch, and a BFH

Don't think that quite worked...

16905006479423120652153874758982.jpg

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ebinmaine
28 minutes ago, JCM said:

:text-yeahthat:   Brace makes quite a difference. Different tractor, same procedure.

IMG_1370.JPG

IMG_1369.JPG

 

@Colby G

 

Jim's pic. This is the way.  

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Handy Don

It is likely that you’ve mushroomed the end of the roll pin using the flat-ended punch. Now it’ll be that much harder to move it and probably easier from the other side.

You can be lucky, like @Evguy, but most of the time there is no shortcut@JCM’s way is THE way--this is the way that worked for me after a week of letting it soak with penetrant.

 

At least one other member has simply cut the steering shaft, dealt with the wheel on a press, and then welded the shaft back together.

 

As I noted earlier, take some minutes to search the site and read others’ approaches and experiences. There are around 15 years of useful knowledge posted here by folks who know their stuff.

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Colby G
14 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

It is likely that you’ve mushroomed the end of the roll pin using the flat-ended punch. Now it’ll be that much harder to move it and probably easier from the other side.

You can be lucky, like @Evguy, but most of the time there is no shortcut@JCM’s way is THE way--this is the way that worked for me after a week of letting it soak with penetrant.

 

At least one other member has simply cut the steering shaft, dealt with the wheel on a press, and then welded the shaft back together.

 

As I noted earlier, take some minutes to search the site and read others’ approaches and experiences. There are around 15 years of useful knowledge posted here by folks who know their stuff

I don't think the pin is full, there isn't anything on the other end. And how do I set up @JCM 's way with the wheel still on? And how would I do it?

1690504931207555152020541618145.jpg

Edited by Colby G

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Handy Don
9 minutes ago, Colby G said:

I don't think the pin is full, there isn't anything on the other end.

If the wheel isn’t spinning on the shaft, the pin is in there. From your picture, it doesn’t look like it was all the way centered.

A roll pin (or Spirol pin) isn’t like a bolt. It expands outward to press against the sides of the hole nearly all the way around and for its entire length. That is why when they rust in they can be extremely hard to remove.

Better for you, then, if the other side isn’t protruding so you’ll be able to get the correct size roll pin punch to seat right on the pin with the hole in the steering wheel shell to help guide it. Too small a punch will mess up the pin or break. Too large will jam in the hole. You NEED the right tool to be sure to do this right.

 

Friendly warning--haste in this matter will frustrate you. This is where patience pays.

Edited by Handy Don
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Colby G
5 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If the wheel isn’t spinning on the shaft, the pin is in there. From your picture, it doesn’t look like it was all the way centered.

A roll pin (or Spirol pin) isn’t like a bolt. It expands outward to press against the sides of the hole nearly all the way around and for its entire length. That is why when they rust in they can be extremely hard to remove.

Better for you, then, if the other side isn’t protruding so you’ll be able to get the correct size roll pin punch to seat right on the pin with the hole in the steering wheel shell to help guide it. Too small a punch will mess up the pin or break. Too large will jam in the hole. You NEED the right tool to be sure to do this right.

 

Friendly warning--haste in this matter will frustrate you. This is where patience pays.

Well as you may be able to see in one of my previous posts, the pin has been mushroomed. Could the tool still be used? And how do you use the tool?

Edited by Colby G

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Handy Don

The roll pin isn’t intended to stick out on either side. It is intended to fit through the steering wheel collar (on both sides) and the steering shaft and be flush on both ends. Someone has been there before you and left the pin pushed partly to one side.

This is not like a cotter or other pin that would allow the wheel to have some looseness on the shaft. You should google roll pins or spirol pins to get an understanding of what you are facing.

 

Using the roll pin punch (a decent set is not expensive on Amazon or other places) is still the best option. Use it from the OTHER side where it’ll fit into the hole in the steering collar and, depending on how off-center the pin is, maybe even into the steering shaft. My guess is that the pin is about ½ inch or so off center.

 

This topic is really for mentioning things you’ve done today to your horse. You should start a new thread with an appropriate topic to have an interactive conversation. Again, I recommend heartily doing some searching on this side and reading up on what you are attempting.

Edited by Handy Don
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Colby G
1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

The roll pin isn’t intended to stick out on either side. It is intended to fit through the steering wheel collar (on both sides) and the steering shaft and be flush on both ends. Someone has been there before you and left the pin pushed partly to one side.

This is not like a cotter or other pin that would allow the wheel to have some looseness on the shaft. You should google roll pins or spirol pins to get an understanding of what you are facing.

 

Using the roll pin punch (a decent set is not expensive on Amazon or other places) is still the best option. Use it from the OTHER side where it’ll fit into the hole in the steering collar and, depending on how off-center the pin is, maybe even into the steering shaft. My guess is that the pin is about ½ inch or so off center.

Well something else I should mention is that I did try the flat end punch a little bit on the other side, but not much. I cannot see how much damage it did, but I don't know if the tool would fit. Would it be better to drill it out?

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TonyToro
Just now, Colby G said:

Well something else I should mention is that I did try the flat end punch a little bit on the other side, but not much. I cannot see how much damage it did, but I don't know if the tool would fit. Would it be better to drill it out?

Let it soak for a couple days. Use the proper size roll pin punch.

 

here is a picture of what you need.

 

9B05BF73-7624-431D-B66E-480DBE122EA7.jpeg

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Handy Don
Just now, Colby G said:

Well something else I should mention is that I did try the flat end punch a little bit on the other side, but not much. I cannot see how much damage it did, but I don't know if the tool would fit. Would it be better to drill it out?

I don’t think so. Roll pins are extremely hard metal and you are more likely to mess up the steering shaft if you are not experienced at doing stuff like that.

Read my post and start another topic! :)

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Colby G
3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I don’t think so. Roll pins are extremely hard metal and you are more likely to mess up the steering shaft if you are not experienced at doing stuff like that.

Read my post and start another topic! :)

I plan on putting an older car wheel on it from the 50s or 60s, which will probably require welding, so I don't think it matters if I damage the steering shaft 😂

Edited by Colby G

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Handy Don

I’ll be happy to continue the conversation if you start another topic here

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Colby G
3 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I’ll be happy to continue the conversation if you start another topic here

There you go! It's called steering wheel removal

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johnnymag3

If you’re not using the steering wheel, then just cut the darn thing off.  :greetings-clappingyellow: Why are you wasting your time trying to get the pin out you can get the pin out of the shaft after the steering wheel is removed by using a sawzall...  :wh:

Edited by johnnymag3
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peter lena

@ML3  noting your bare frame opportunity , to tuck / lay in a steel fuel line the length of the frame , up against the inner frame bend point . extend out about 6"  + cap it off , now as you build up , you can add a clear vinyl fuel rated hose and filter , coming from tank and going to engine . what you have done is to MINIMIZE  FUEL LINE BREAK DOWN . people complain about , ethenol fuel . if you make an elimination of the hose composition , you will have fewer problms , even with diesel fuel , BTW  also swap out the drive belt idler pulley , nown for failure / noise . looks like you are on track , pete  

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